The Good Food Guide’s favourite pasta restaurants Published 22 October 2024
World Pasta Day on 25 October is the perfect excuse to twirl, slurp, and savour a bowl of pasta. Rigatoni, farfalle, or strozzapreti? Maybe you prefer silky strands of tagliatelle wrapped in a rich ragù or a tangle of linguine tossed with a briny vongole sauce? Whatever your choice, here are some of The Good Food Guide's favourite places for pasta.
No-frills neighbourhood Italian with an infectious vibe
A dark frontage punctuated by full-length windows reveals a spare-looking café-like interior, a narrow room with plain white walls and a constantly changing chalkboard menu – in short, Artusi is a ‘perfect neigh… Read more
A dark frontage punctuated by full-length windows reveals a spare-looking café-like interior, a narrow room with plain white walls and a constantly changing chalkboard menu – in short, Artusi is a ‘perfect neighbourhood restaurant’. Down some steps at the back, there is a chef's table for eight, with views of the open kitchen. This is Italian dining, Peckham-style, and none the worse for it.
The infectious straightforwardness of the approach is reflected in a dinner menu that offers three choices at each stage, with a couple of intervening pasta options. Start, perhaps, with a pretty plate of roasted fennel, Russet apples, ricotta and walnuts before moving on to cod with butter beans, purple sprouting broccoli and preserved lemon aïoli or braised featherblade of beef accompanied by confit garlic mash and cime di rapa. Don't want to miss the pasta? Ravioli di erbette (stuffed with wild greens, ricotta and sage) may well have your name on it. The Italian way with carbo-desserts then produces an irresistibly toothsome pistachio and chocolate cake with crème fraîche.
Lunch is a simpler affair (but similar in style), while Sunday brings a great-value set menu. Wines are not exclusively Italian, but those represent the best way of entering into the spirit. They've also got some oranged-up Sicilian Catarratto, if Pinot Grigio now seems a little vecchio cappello. A second outlet is now open at the Underbelly Boulevard in Soho.
This artist-run Venetian bar and restaurant in the heart of Cardiff is as idiosyncratic as it is charming. Dark terrazzo-tiled floors, white wall tiles and artfully distressed original features evoke an air of retro cool and we lo… Read more
This artist-run Venetian bar and restaurant in the heart of Cardiff is as idiosyncratic as it is charming. Dark terrazzo-tiled floors, white wall tiles and artfully distressed original features evoke an air of retro cool and we loved everything about it – from the seemingly thrown-together interior to the generous, inventive and often free-form take on Venetian food, ranging from cicchetti to not-so-small plates. The ground floor sports a long bar, plus yellow booths for dining, while upstairs a long, warmly lit room is furnished with reclaimed wood and metal furniture; there's a small roof terrace too. The expansive cicchetti menu, built on breads from the excellent Riverside Sourdough bakery, runs from classic salami, mozzarella and olive through to creative plant-based options such as chickpea pâté with seaweed and banana blossom, or a simple but enormously satisfying mountain of sweet, caramelised onion. While meat and fish appear on the menu, vegan and vegetarian options take up the lion’s share. There’s also a retro wholefood vibe to items such as mushroom barley risotto or a huge bowl of cauliflower soup topped with a riot of croûtons, broccoli florets and walnuts. These are big, rustic dishes designed for sharing (a typical non-veggie option might be spaghetti with cockles, garlic, chilli and parsley). Fresh, seasonal ingredients are very much the stars of the show, as exemplified by an autumn dessert of plum and apple galette, combining a gorgeously crisp crust with perfectly caramelised fruit and a sparkling slick of fragrant orange syrup. A decent selection of Italian wines is matched by a very respectable beer menu.
Like the Covent Garden original, this Soho offshoot majors in counter dining, although there’s much more space throughout: chatty groups congregate around the olive tree planted in the centre of the room, couples prefer the … Read more
Like the Covent Garden original, this Soho offshoot majors in counter dining, although there’s much more space throughout: chatty groups congregate around the olive tree planted in the centre of the room, couples prefer the discreet booths with green-leather banquettes; there’s also a semi-secret basement that doubles as a cocktail bar. Praise still rings out for the faultless hand-made-pasta – ‘absolutely on-point, with perfect textures and zingy, punchy sauces.’ The signature ‘silk handkerchiefs’ of fazzoletti with walnut butter and confit egg yolk continue to steal the show, although many dishes have been recommended: fusilli with spicy pork and ‘nduja; courgette, lemon and ricotta ravioli; pappardelle with a ragù of braised ox cheek laced with Barolo vinegar. Bold regional flavours also shine through in antipasti such as kale salad with soft egg, lemon and bottarga or burrata with salt-baked beeetroot, while desserts bring praline cannoli with crystallised hazelnuts or a confection of cranberries, lemon confit, vanilla and meringue. ‘Truly lovely, smiling staff’ ensure that dishes arrive at just the right temperature. Prosecco and reasonably priced Italian wines (from £27) are supplemented by a more prestigious ‘cellar’ list.
At the bottom end of Timber Hill in the centre of Norwich, this gem of an Italian restaurant looks nothing like the trattorias of yesteryear, but is instead a smart long room done in gentle teal, hung with pastel-hued paintings an… Read more
At the bottom end of Timber Hill in the centre of Norwich, this gem of an Italian restaurant looks nothing like the trattorias of yesteryear, but is instead a smart long room done in gentle teal, hung with pastel-hued paintings and furnished with unclothed, well-spaced light wood tables. Oliver Boon's menus reflect his lifelong love affair with Italian foodways, and highlighted names on his classy CV include Gordon Ramsay and Michel Roux Jr. Expectations are high and you won't be disappointed, with thrills turning up in every corner of the menu. Indeed, it's worth fitting in a couple of the nibbles before setting about the antipasti – perhaps creamy-rich croquettes of 24-month Parmesan or sweet-crusted garlic brioche with whipped garlic butter. Beef carpaccio with Harry's Bar dressing will whisk you off to Venice in a trice, but hake Kyiv with 'nduja, baccalà and coppa is more of a mystery tour. 'We couldn't resist it,' a reporter confesses, 'and I'm glad we couldn't.' Pasta is beautifully rendered, whether for bottone of ricotta with courgette, basil, chilli and puffed quinoa or black bucatini with bottarga and a Calabrian version of XO. Main-course meats such as lamb shoulder or Blythburgh pork are always top-drawer, while the garnish for roast salmon, tomato and clam panzanella – tempura-battered soft-shell crab – is a truly inspired touch. Does 'dulce de leche tirami-choux' sound like a bit of a mash-up? Au contraire, insists our correspondent who describes it as 'jaw-droppingly delicious'. Otherwise, a combination of yoghurt panna cotta with a cannoli of blackberries, sorrel and pistachio exercises quite a lure in itself. Drinks include cocktails and a short but serviceable selection of Italian wines.
With a warm welcome and classy cooking, this neighbourhood Italian honours the family behind Bristol’s successful and ever-growing Bianchis restaurant group. The unpretentious and relaxed dining room has a laid-back, lived-i… Read more
With a warm welcome and classy cooking, this neighbourhood Italian honours the family behind Bristol’s successful and ever-growing Bianchis restaurant group. The unpretentious and relaxed dining room has a laid-back, lived-in look with a scuffed floor, low lighting, a 60s soul soundtrack and bottles of wine stacked on all available shelves. Comfy seating and damasked tables add to the sense that you are here to enjoy yourself and eat well. With a belt-busting four courses on offer, it is perhaps advisable to start with a light antipasto of, say, radicchio salad (with smoked ricotta, courgette, red onion and pumpkin seeds) ahead of, maybe, a bowl of gnocchetti nero in bisque with crab, kohlrabi and soft herbs. The pasta here is so good you may be almost reluctant to move on to a 'secondi' – grilled pork tenderloin with soft polenta and cime di rapa, for example. Be brave, it's worth it. Puddings are mercifully modest, though such is the density and richness of a chocolate and hazelnut tart served with intensely savoury crème fraîche that a little goes a long way. A fine selection of cocktails and an extensive wine offer, including ‘Aldo’s list’ of serious (and seriously expensive) vintages will lubricate your evening, while the chatty, informal but very efficient staff make you feel that you are dining among friends.
As the hurricane of voguish London dining whirls on, it is momentarily easy to forget how much of a gust of fresh air Bocca di Lupo was when Jacob Kenedy opened it way back in the distant land of 2008. If places can struggle to ge… Read more
As the hurricane of voguish London dining whirls on, it is momentarily easy to forget how much of a gust of fresh air Bocca di Lupo was when Jacob Kenedy opened it way back in the distant land of 2008. If places can struggle to get noticed in the Soho bustle, Bocca suffered no such indignity. Getting in at all was more often the problem. It still delivers an infectiously dynamic ambience, the best seats being the counter perches facing the kitchen, while the menus still change fast enough to make yesterday vanish without trace. Home-baked bread is the business – focaccia and ciabatta are served gratis with olives and oil while you ponder. What the kitchen deals in is regional Italy, not just generic Italy, with ancestral dishes accorded their provenance, no matter how recent or ancient the tradition. Pasta is naturally everything you would expect: a generous plate of orecchiette in a vibrant green sauce of chard, garlic and pecorino, or even simpler rigatoni coated in a luscious cream sauce of nutmeg and more pecorino. Main-course proteins are hearty presentations of top-spec ingredients. A pork T-bone is grilled golden and neatly sliced, awaiting a side of, say, datterini tomatoes and borlotti beans, plus some glisteningly braised chard for good measure. Eye-catching fish dishes could include a collar of grilled amberjack with gremolata or bream baked in a 'sarcophagus' of salt. Bocca's famous salad of radish, celeriac, Parmesan, pomegranate, truffle and parsley still gets an outing, and is still worth trying as an object lesson in the combinatorial arts. Finish with the Gelupo ice creams (also starring just over the road), or something like crème caramel with rhubarb. Service could relax a little, and it could be a little more clued-up. A regionally discerning collection of Italian wines adds to the lustre. Prices at the more affordable end seem pretty reasonable for the location, with small glasses from £5.80.
A homely celebration of rustic ingredients-led Italian cooking
‘We've celebrated weddings here, birthdays, happy times and sad times ... it’s the best food for the soul!’ declaimed a regular visitor to Simona Di Dio and Harry Ryder’s ‘little Italian kitchen&rsquo… Read more
‘We've celebrated weddings here, birthdays, happy times and sad times ... it’s the best food for the soul!’ declaimed a regular visitor to Simona Di Dio and Harry Ryder’s ‘little Italian kitchen’ in Margate’s Old Town. Simona’s cooking really does ‘feel like home,’ and this friendly, unpretentious space embodies the relaxed and ‘honest’ nature of the food – namely, ingredients-driven, rustic dishes rooted in the culinary traditions of Simona’s fertile home region of Sannio, north of Naples.
It’s a showcase of food born of necessity and ingenuity (what the Italians call cibo povero) but made with produce of the highest order: grandma’s recipe for verdura e fagioli (greens and beans) is a permanent fixture on the menu, likewise polpette di pane al sugo (bread balls with tomato sauce). Nibbles and ‘small(ish)’ plates are delivered on earthenware crockery – perhaps salt cod with blood orange and celery or buffalo mozzarella with cime di rape, smoked anchovy, chilli. After that, indulge in a serving of superlative hand-made pasta, say spaghetti with wild garlic, basil and cashew pesto or wholegrain ziti with a slow-cooked ragù of fennel sausages, home-preserved tomatoes and grated Corra Linn sheep’s cheese.
To conclude, torta caprese (chocolate and almond tart) or Italian rice pudding with plum jam make a fitting finale. The predominantly organic, biodynamic and natural wine list heralds some of the best producers in Italy, and staff are eager to provide helpful advice for those less familiar with low-intervention viticulture. Don’t forget to stock up on artisan Italian provisions at the adjoining shop.
Florence comes to Farringdon at this pulsating jam-packed eatery
Russell Norman’s sudden death in November 2023 shocked the restaurant world, but his masterfully staged final project, Brutto, carries on regardless – thanks to his wife Jules and son Ollie. Inside, checked tablecloths… Read more
Russell Norman’s sudden death in November 2023 shocked the restaurant world, but his masterfully staged final project, Brutto, carries on regardless – thanks to his wife Jules and son Ollie. Inside, checked tablecloths, Chianti flasks and typewritten menus do their best to transport you to Florence, although the 1990s soundtrack pumping out at high volume may shatter your illusions.
Reservations are released online two weeks ahead; act fast if you want a table at prime time. Otherwise, walk in, sit at the bar, order a £5 Negroni and nibble on some pinzimonio (crudités) or Sicilian anchovies with toast and butter curls. It’s all ‘intrinsically simple, but reliant on the quality of the ingredients,' noted one fan. The vitellotonnato is 'exemplary', pasta might bring rabbit pappardelle or pork and mortadellatortelloni in bone broth, while panzanella (a cucina povera classic) is made moreish with red onion, basil and a vinegary dressing. We also loved the fried dough balls with prosciutto and Stracchino cheese, while a bollito with tongue and fall-apart beef brisket was equally captivating and lifted by perky salsa verde. Dry-aged Florentine T-bones (well-seasoned and rested) are available in limited numbers, so best bag one on arrival.
Pudding can be as simple as plum and almond cake or ‘brutti ma buoni’ (the ‘ugly but good’ biscuits from which the restaurant takes its name). Like the food and the ambience, the friendly young staff earn top marks. The house wine is more than palatable, and there’s an attractive list of Italian regional bottles. 'Bravo Brutto!'
* Casa is currently closed until further notice.*
Rising phoenix-like from the ashes of Casamia, and harking back to its roots, this contemporary Italian restaurant from Peter Sánchez-Iglesias still has the ability to wow,… Read more
* Casa is currently closed until further notice.*
Rising phoenix-like from the ashes of Casamia, and harking back to its roots, this contemporary Italian restaurant from Peter Sánchez-Iglesias still has the ability to wow, but is decidedly more accessible than its predecessor. Cream walls, blond wood tables and muted lighting suggest calm, but pumping dance music and the busy chatter of neighbouring tables make this a lively place to eat. If you've been to Sánchez-Iglesias's equally ambitious Paco Tapas next door, you'll know the drill here – you may also recognise several of the waiting staff. Handwritten specials are added daily to a core menu of antipasti, pasta, cured meats and cheese, plus meat, fish and vegetable dishes. The line-up is so full of temptation it's hard to know when to stop, though you can hand over responsibility by opting for the 'chef's choice' selection. Must-tries range from an antipasto of crunchy little semolina pillows filled with an intensely moreish Parmesan emulsion to perfectly al dente potato ravioli on a bed of toothsome and surprisingly meaty-textured lion's mane mushroom ragù. The presentation and delivery may be simple, but make no mistake, this is top-flight cooking. A dish of a whole braised beef cheek in a rich, smoky sauce is so tender it is delivered with just a spoon. Elsewhere, wilted spinach with pesto exemplifies the genius of Italian cooking, where the sheer quality of ingredients can make a simple dish sing. Those who can remember Casamia from its earliest Westbury-on-Trym days will have fond memories of the tiramisu, faithfully reproduced on the dessert menu here. Order it. If you can read the tiny print of the drinks menu, an inventive selection of cocktails awaits alongside an extensive list of mostly Italian wines selected by Casamia's former sommelier.
* From September 2024, Celentano's will become a restaurant with rooms following its acquisition of the adjoining Cathedral House hotel.*
Celentano’s is inspired but not constrained by Italian cooking and chef-owner Dean Pa… Read more
* From September 2024, Celentano's will become a restaurant with rooms following its acquisition of the adjoining Cathedral House hotel.*
Celentano’s is inspired but not constrained by Italian cooking and chef-owner Dean Parker is something of a food alchemist. He experiments with ingredients and preservation techniques while fusing different culinary influences into his own individualistic style. Don't be surprised to see kombucha and kimchi keeping company with classic coppa and carpaccio. Celebrating small, sustainable producers and with zero-waste values, the menu balances rustic authenticity, technical precision and an element of surprise. Standout snacks include the fried porcini lasagne and the rare-breed home-cured charcuterie. Follow that, perhaps, with an almost Venetian linguine, traditional surf clams embellished with cod cheek and kombu butter. The restaurant's ethos manifests itself in Loch Etive trout tail (perfectly baked on the bone with a simple whey butter) or a caressingly tender lower-carcass cut of local Dexter beef. To finish, an affogato gets the full 'comfort food' makeover with malted barley and chocolate crumb. The flexible format allows a mix-and-match approach, though careless choices might result in feeling either underwhelmed or over-faced. The multi-level, open-plan dining room sits within a quirky turreted building (formerly the Cathedral House hotel) and has a bustling but informal feel. A heated garden terrace overlooking an atmospheric necropolis might be the perfect spot for enjoying homemade vermouth or coffee liqueur in a signature negroni or espresso Martini.
Popular and super-friendly neighbourhood trattoria
Levenshulme’s Stockport Road is a notoriously crammed highway flanked by a string of kebab shops, curry houses, takeaways and discount warehouses. Cibus sits modestly in the midst of this hustle and bustle, grown from a… Read more
Levenshulme’s Stockport Road is a notoriously crammed highway flanked by a string of kebab shops, curry houses, takeaways and discount warehouses. Cibus sits modestly in the midst of this hustle and bustle, grown from a market stall to a consistently popular neighbourhood restaurant. Indeed, when you enter you could almost be in the Italian tratt of your dreams – one where you are 'made to feel like an old friend when you walk in'. During the pandemic, Cibus delivered pizzas to the housebound and that service continues: 'it has transformed the food scene in Levenshulme,' noted one fiercely loyal follower.
At first glance, the menu might seem like a roll call of trattoria standards, but it also features regularly refreshed regional specialities, coupled with a level of cooking, sourcing and service that would shame many a fancier joint. Alongside top-class Italian ingredients, the owners support local suppliers, and can regularly be seen shopping in the nearby market. Their approach is flexible. You can pop in for a glass of wine and some cicchetti (perhaps masterly zucchini fritti, bagna cauda or clams with fregola) or settle down for a more substantial multi-course meal.
The mainstays of the menu are the well-flavoured, crispy sourdough pizzas (‘the best in Manchester’), and interesting pasta dishes – homemade pappardelle with duck ragù, for example. In addition, there's always a meat dish of the week (exceptionally delicious fennel meatballs with peas and guanciale on our visit), as well as a catch of the day. To finish, check out the salted doughnuts fashioned from little parcels of pizza dough.
Cocktails and digestifs have an Italian accent, likewise the well-chosen craft beers and wine list. When the handsome bartender winks and says ‘ciao, bella’, it's tempting to start checking out local house prices.
‘I love the authentic Italian flavours and the creative dishes made with fresh, quality ingredients,’ is just one ringing endorsement for this ‘small and super-stylish’ eatery. Counter seats bring you up cl… Read more
‘I love the authentic Italian flavours and the creative dishes made with fresh, quality ingredients,’ is just one ringing endorsement for this ‘small and super-stylish’ eatery. Counter seats bring you up close to the action, with enthusiastic staff buzzing about, slicing hams and pouring drinks while the chefs can be seen cooking pasta al dente and roasting prime cuts of meat and fish. Alternatively, there are some high tables at the back if you want something less frenetic.
Light and aromatic rosemary focaccia delivers the goods, and you should be prepared to share the seasonal small plates because that’s the deal here. Crisp, moreish arancini are a fixture (Venetian duck ragù with parsley and garlic emulsion, say), salads are fresh and zingy, and handmade pastas could range from rigatoni with flaked chalk stream trout, mussels, kale and spiced sofrito to tortelli of sweet potato with truffle sauce, amaretti and sage. If you fancy something meatier, how about Sussex beef rump and a rotolo of slow-cooked shin with Gorgonzola, spinach and roasted shallot, all in a rich beef sauce.
To finish, tiramisu or a Piedmontese chocolate, caramel and amaretti pudding compete with a trio of Italian cheeses. The five-course ‘chef's menu’ is an opportunity to take a more traditional path through the repertoire (with separate gluten-free and vegan options), all offered with optional Italian wine flights drawn from an impressive, knowledgeably assembled list.
All-day Italian café in a stunning Victorian banking hall
Quite the ace to have up your sleeve when you’re looking for somewhere casual, this dramatic double-height space, a former banking hall, houses a true urban eatery, an all-day Italian caffè. While busy and buzzy, the … Read more
Quite the ace to have up your sleeve when you’re looking for somewhere casual, this dramatic double-height space, a former banking hall, houses a true urban eatery, an all-day Italian caffè. While busy and buzzy, the room feels classy: soaring pillars, ornate ceiling, grey walls, striking bright-pink dangling lampshades, massive central chandelier, and a lively baroque fresco covering part of one wall.
It ‘feels special’ and feeds the mainly Edinburgh crowd from breakfast to dinner, whether snacking, just having a drink, enjoying one dish or more. Any time and any dish will do, whether it’s a plate of trofiette pasta with sausage, cremini mushrooms, dried porcini, fresh cream, rocket and Parmesan, or rump of Highland lamb with cannellini purée, pan-fried puntarella and salsa verde.
If you’re into the sweet side of things, Contini’s tiramisu is the ultimate soothing treat, although other equally indulgent temptations beckon – from panettone al forno to gelati and sorbetti. Liquid refreshment covers all bases too, with the good-value all-Italian wine list opening at £25.
A cosy bolthole with a great atmosphere in the centre of Bristol, this wine bar and kitchen feels more informal than sister restaurant Pasta Ripiena on the same street, while offering impeccably sourced, beautifully cooked Italian… Read more
A cosy bolthole with a great atmosphere in the centre of Bristol, this wine bar and kitchen feels more informal than sister restaurant Pasta Ripiena on the same street, while offering impeccably sourced, beautifully cooked Italian food of the same quality. Originally La Sorella (a deli and aperitivo bar), then Bar Ripiena, plans to reimagine the space as a lasagne bar were knocked off course by the pandemic. Cotto emerged in early 2022. The old wine bar, with its countertop seating and high tables for two running along one side of the narrow room, now flows into next door where larger groups can eat in a slightly less atmospheric dining room. While you can still pop in for just a glass from their wide-ranging, carefully chosen selection of Italian and other European wines, it's easy to be tempted by the short, daily changing menu of keenly priced culinary delights. Small plates of, say, panzanella with buffalo mozzarella are large enough for two, while a large serving of rigatoni cacio e pepe or chicken cacciatore with pappardelle is a satisfying and sophisticated meal for one. Order another glass of wine to complement a scoop of gelato or a savoury finale such as homemade 'carta da musica' flatbread with mustard fruits and an oozing slab of Taleggio. The welcome is as warm as a ray of Italian sunshine.
Opened in November 2023, this neighbourhood Italian in Hackney puts the emphasis on home-style cooking with a little transatlantic input from the partly Canadian heritage of the chef. You'll need to head over to Instagram if you w… Read more
Opened in November 2023, this neighbourhood Italian in Hackney puts the emphasis on home-style cooking with a little transatlantic input from the partly Canadian heritage of the chef. You'll need to head over to Instagram if you want to see a menu in advance, but rolling up and taking pot luck works quite well – how about red mullet crudo with sea purslane and tomato dressing. The decor is as simple as can be (creamy white walls, small café-style tables), while the food puts on little in the way of airs and graces. A cuttlefish and chickpea salad won over a first-timer a treat (the bread handy for mopping up the dressing), while a trio of anchovy and tomato fritters was big on crisp, well-seasoned umami. Classic Italian 'primi' and 'secondi' are rendered with impressive panache, as in perfectly formed, delicate ravioli of nettle and ricotta strewn with pine nuts, or a jade-green wild garlic risotto enriched with squacquerone soft cheese. Away from pasta, also expect the likes of lamb chop and belly with wild mint and roasted potatoes, while a chunky side dish of quartered marinated tomatoes in olive oil and basil is reliably worth a punt. A serving of snow-white ricotta flooded with saba grape syrup is a more enterprising way of finishing, if perchance the fabled tiramisu has sold out. There are pedigree Italian wines to accompany.
Clare Lattin and Tom Hill, once of Ducksoup in Soho, have migrated to the sub-Dartmoor stretches of south Devon and pitched camp on the T-junction that more or less is Ashburton. It's a small room with an agreeable buzz and square… Read more
Clare Lattin and Tom Hill, once of Ducksoup in Soho, have migrated to the sub-Dartmoor stretches of south Devon and pitched camp on the T-junction that more or less is Ashburton. It's a small room with an agreeable buzz and square tables (some for sharing) supplemented by wicker stools at the counter and window that are probably best reserved for younger, more resilient backsides. Just add a thrifty, serenely industrious kitchen, plus a wine-store (for retail) half-hidden behind a curtain, and a frequently changing menu that works within its own modest capacities to produce contemporary, Italian-inflected small plates and mains. The special of the day on our lunch visit in the long linger of late winter involved chunks of sublime red-rare hanger steak in a mound of roasted Tropea onion with salted ricotta, capers and oregano. Others were scarfing up the broad-ribboned pappardelle with a ragù of ox cheek and black olives, as well as marinated gurnard in an aromatic livery of golden raisins, almonds and saffron. Appetisers are a little more prosaic (a couple of splots of white Gorgonzola with lightly pickled pear; shaved pickled fennel in oregano and chilli) but there is good charcuterie, and even the minimal choice of two desserts will provoke agonies of indecision. The dark chocolate mousse with ginger and oat crumb looked the business, but altogether flawless was our blood-orange and pistachio tart with crème fraîche. Only a select few of the wines emerge from behind the curtain onto the list, but they are enterprising and interesting Italian regional stars: a tobaccoey, Merlot-based Gambellara, perhaps, or a skin-contact Sicilian from Grecanico-Inzolia. Aperitifs run to a take on the Bellini earthed up with rhubarb juice.
Pizzas, pastas and gelati are top shouts at this likeable Italian
Set up as a pizza home-delivery service during lockdown, this well-liked informal eatery (from seasoned London restaurateur Rebecca Mascarenhas) feels like the very definition of a neighbourhood Italian restaurant. The short … Read more
Set up as a pizza home-delivery service during lockdown, this well-liked informal eatery (from seasoned London restaurateur Rebecca Mascarenhas) feels like the very definition of a neighbourhood Italian restaurant. The short menu offers food that is comforting and classical, with generous plates of pasta as a strong suit. Fans have singled out the tortelloni cacio e pepe, although we couldn’t resist the orecchiette with anchovy and cime di rapa, topped with crispy sourdough crumbs and Parmesan.
The kitchen is also renowned for its deliciously light, crisp pizzas. Our pizza bianca with porchetta, mozzarella, salsa verde and rocket was a perfect example of how the 'white ones' should be done. Readers have also enthused about the version topped with 'nduja, Gorgonzola and hot honey.
A serving of mozzarella di bufala opened our meal, lifted by grated lemon zest and partnered by roasted crown prince squash and crispy sage, while a portion of zesty lemon polenta cake rounded off proceedings. The restaurant also does terrific gelati, including varieties in a waffle cone – the salted caramel variety is ‘especially good’, by all accounts. The admirable front of house team make everyone feel at home, and the set-up also comes with a pretty covered garden, a great playlist, cocktails and a short well-priced wine list tailored to the menu.
* The restaurant has closed as of February 2025. The two Forza Wine sites (in Peckham and at the National Theatre) continue to trade as normal. *
Back to life after its previous iteration (in a Peckham warehouse) was ca… Read more
* The restaurant has closed as of February 2025. The two Forza Wine sites (in Peckham and at the National Theatre) continue to trade as normal. *
Back to life after its previous iteration (in a Peckham warehouse) was cancelled by the first lockdown, Forza Win (without an 'e') is an utterly comfortable and welcoming spirit-reviver in its own right. If you don't feel good about focused Italian flavours, Sicilian wine on tap or cool-but-kindly service, better check your pulse. Behind peachy arches overlooking Camberwell Church Street, the kitchen wears its technique with ease; for every serving of breezy spaghetti with clams and mussels, there's a bowl of fluffy Florentine topini with the intensity of mushroom stock and morels, or a masterfully breaded and fried lamb cutlet draped with anchovy fillets and served with chunky salsa verde. The selection of four secondi might range from a summery green vignarola (Roman vegetable stew) to a piece of pork belly sliding gently into its accompanying chickpeas with San Marzano tomatoes and capers. Such a satisfyingly compact menu will always be seasonal, although the house 'custardo' is non-negotiable – an affogato made with custard rather than ice cream. For more heft, the chocolate and apricot cake (shades of Sachertorte) or a blowsy take on tiramisu both deliver.
There is much to enjoy in this informal neighbourhood restaurant. ‘Stunning food. Great value. Always things I want to try. Wines I want to drink. Great hospitality,’ notes one loyal fan. But then Giulia Quaglia and En… Read more
There is much to enjoy in this informal neighbourhood restaurant. ‘Stunning food. Great value. Always things I want to try. Wines I want to drink. Great hospitality,’ notes one loyal fan. But then Giulia Quaglia and Endris Kerbizi’s modest west London eatery is widely regarded as the real deal, entrancing scores of followers with its faithful take on Italian cooking. With a neutral look and plain tables, it’s the chatter and laughter of regulars that lend the necessary colour and ambience. The enduring appeal of Italian food often resides in its solid simplicity, and the kitchen follows this well-established principle to the letter, taking great seasonal ingredients and allowing them to speak for themselves. Seared octopus with cauliflower, creamy potato and ‘nduja sauce is a must-order, and the chef is equally adept when it comes to osso buco milanese – its ‘succulence and tenderness’ scoring highly with reporters. Other standouts include cacio e pepe ravioli (pasta is made daily), beef tartare with crispy potatoes and giardiniera (Italian pickled vegetables), and a serving of veal sweetbread with potato millefoglie, salsa verde and radicchio tardivo. The tiramisu is ‘notably excellent’, but then so is the Amalfi lemon tart with Fior di Latte gelato. To drink, ‘Giulia makes the best Aperol spritz’ (according to one aficionado), and the short all-Italian wine list opens at £30.
Poppy Cartwright and Matthew Shelton's supper club in the tiny basement of their terraced house was a hard-to-book hot ticket, so the move to Hebden Bridge's main street has given locals more of a chance to bag a table. The couple… Read more
Poppy Cartwright and Matthew Shelton's supper club in the tiny basement of their terraced house was a hard-to-book hot ticket, so the move to Hebden Bridge's main street has given locals more of a chance to bag a table. The couple have created a really stylish, pared-back space – all white walls, scrubbed floors and exposed beams, plus an open kitchen with Carrera marble worktops. The furniture is Ercol, the tablecloths crisp white linen and the music smooth – Hebden has got the stylish, elegant restaurant it didn't know it needed.
Poppy's background as an ex-fashion student then lecturer at the Royal College of Art may explain her near-forensic attention to detail in the kitchen; Matthew deftly presides front-of-house. The old supper club ethos has been carried over, so expect a fixed-price set menu with a strong nod to the Italian 'Slow Food Movement' as well as Poppy's Sicilian heritage: a pork and fennel ragù, for example, sings of a long, slow cook although it's leavened by a dollop of ricotta shot through with lemon zest. The non-meat choice might be pappa al pomodoro with herb tordelli. Butternut squash velouté with pickled squash opened the menu on the night we popped in, while dessert was Madagascar vanilla panna cotta (with precisely the right wobble) served with strawberry gel sorbet and a lacy tuile.
There are two sittings on Friday and Saturday, while the excellent-value four-course Sunday lunch includes the likes of beef shin and Chianti ragù followed by blossom-honey parfait. The all-Italian wine list is short but carefully curated.
It opened in 2021 but La Terra has the feel of a long-established Italian restaurant, with faithful regulars welcomed as friends and cooking rooted in chef Alessandro Scola's family traditions. He and business partner Vito Scaduto… Read more
It opened in 2021 but La Terra has the feel of a long-established Italian restaurant, with faithful regulars welcomed as friends and cooking rooted in chef Alessandro Scola's family traditions. He and business partner Vito Scaduto (front of house) worked in some of the locality’s more renowned establishments before teaming up for this project – and it runs like a well-oiled machine, from the on-point service to the thrum of the open kitchen at the back. The interior is light and airy, the pale walls and cool grey of the marble-topped tables warmed by vintage wall lights and red padded seating.
Scola's cooking combines traditional Italian recipes and ingredients with contemporary creative flair. A starter of lamb shoulder croquettes with kumquats and jus lacked crunch but was meaty, full-flavoured and satisfying, while exceptionally good burrata (from Puglia) was fittingly paired with sweet pear, bitter chicory and crunchy, buttery pine nuts. Sourcing is impeccable: a pearly piece of Brixham plaice, cooked just-so and served with fregola, salty-garlicky bagna cauda and earthy Jerusalem artichoke purée was a high point of our visit, while a plate of traditional Roman gnocchi was equally delightful – made with semolina, pan-fried until burnished and served with crispy fried guanciale, sprightly wild mushrooms, butternut squash and unctuous pan juices.
To conclude, an Amalfi lemon posset with curd and burnt white chocolate offered a novel spin on a classic recipe. Wash it all down with well-sourced, mostly Italian wines, including a decent selection by the glass.
There’s a lot more competition than when Lardo first opened its doors in 2012, but this industrial-chic venue remains a favourite among the local families and well-to-do professionals of London Fields. While the pizza oven i… Read more
There’s a lot more competition than when Lardo first opened its doors in 2012, but this industrial-chic venue remains a favourite among the local families and well-to-do professionals of London Fields. While the pizza oven is busy turning out blistered-crust beauties, the kitchen demonstrates 'ristorante' skills with dishes like pig’s head croquette, soft ricotta gnudi as well as creative vegan options. Classic Italian desserts include affogato, tiramisu and panna cotta, while a short, stylish wine list starts with tempting bottles from £28.
A converted warehouse in the shadow of Tower Bridge is an unlikely spot for a small, independently owned Italian restaurant, but Legare 'punches above its weight,' according to one well-satisfied visitor. Inside, it’s a… Read more
A converted warehouse in the shadow of Tower Bridge is an unlikely spot for a small, independently owned Italian restaurant, but Legare 'punches above its weight,' according to one well-satisfied visitor. Inside, it’s all white walls and stone flooring with tightly packed tables and a centrepiece open-plan kitchen delivering a seasonal, regularly changing menu that’s sensibly short and bolstered by blackboard specials. Chef/co-owner Matt Beardmore honed his craft at Trullo in Islington and we were impressed by the exemplary hand-made paccheri (large pasta tubes) served with a ragù of braised cuttlefish given heft with a touch of chilli and a topping of bottarga. We kicked things off with a dish of cured chalk stream trout, pickled kohlrabi, dill and mustard seeds as well as delicious grilled mackerel with shaved fennel and orange, while our 'secondi' was accurately timed roast quail which arrived in company with onions, sultanas, Kalamazoo olives, pine nuts and pink fir potatoes. The fresh-from-the-oven focaccia seasoned with roasted garlic and oregano is not to be missed, while dessert might promise cannoli with Marcona almonds (priced by the piece) or, perhaps, white chocolate cremoso with passion fruit. Beardmore's business partner Jay Patel (ex-Barrafina) heads a tightly knit front-of-house-team. The wine list comprises some 38 natural tipples sourced from small Italian producers, with a dozen offered by the glass.
A really lovely neighbourhood Italian for every occasion
A selection of the day’s papers hanging from a rail in the front room is a reminder that this chic neighbourhood Italian does brisk business as a café by day, dispensing excellent espressos, croissants, pizzette and p… Read more
A selection of the day’s papers hanging from a rail in the front room is a reminder that this chic neighbourhood Italian does brisk business as a café by day, dispensing excellent espressos, croissants, pizzette and plates of superlative lasagne. In the evening, lights are dimmed, candles are lit, noodly jazz plays, and the vintage Italian liquor posters on the wall exert their influence, persuading the diner to at least consider an aperitivo. Campari and soda, Ichnusa beer and non-alcoholic Crodino are all in keeping with the Italian theme.
In the kitchen, chef Peppe Belvedere (ex-Brawn) offers the full Italian works of snacks, antipasti, primi and grilled secondi such as turbot on the bone or lamb saddle, plain and unadorned. Well-heeled locals are certainly embracing the possibilities: some popping in for a glass of red and bowl of fettuccine with duck ragù, others putting on their glad rags for a fancy night out. The salad of cockles, mussels and raw scallops in a chilled tomato dressing that we sampled is ‘special occasion’ food, for sure, though even a more rustic dish of firm cavatelli pasta with aubergine, datterini tomatoes and ricotta affumicata is made with love and care. As a refresher, finish off with peach sorbet.
Aside from aperitifs, beers and other libations, Leo's has a not-inexpensive wine list that divides its attention between Italy and France, with some beloved ‘natural’ producers on show (Nino Barraco, Bruno Duchêne, Le Coste etc). Not surprisingly, the place is popular, so be sure to book ahead if you want to enjoy the white tablecloths and wood panels of the main dining room. That’s not to say the yellow Formica-topped tables in the bar aren’t perfectly lovely too.
Chris Davies built up a business selling handmade pasta at local markets, as well as delivering pasta boxes to people’s homes. A dream of opening a little restaurant/bar was finally realised when he opened on Bristol's Chand… Read more
Chris Davies built up a business selling handmade pasta at local markets, as well as delivering pasta boxes to people’s homes. A dream of opening a little restaurant/bar was finally realised when he opened on Bristol's Chandos Road (next door to Wilsons). The short menu features the chef’s famed pasta in dishes such as pappardelle with Creedy Carver duck leg ragù or mafalde with cuttlefish ragù, chilli, capers, brown crab and bottarga. The set lunch is excellent value.
Originally conceived by the owners of the Clove Club, this ‘Britalian’ restaurant is almost as well-known for its bar as its restaurant –so it was with some reluctance that we bypassed the Negroni-based fun … Read more
Originally conceived by the owners of the Clove Club, this ‘Britalian’ restaurant is almost as well-known for its bar as its restaurant –so it was with some reluctance that we bypassed the Negroni-based fun in favour of the dining room. Until we clapped eyes on the space itself, that is: a stunning covered garden worthy of a Roman palazzo. Seating is divided between an attractive cosmopolitan room and a terrace complete with a fireplace, cobbles and foliage (you can specify where you sit when you reserve). For the Luca-on-a-budget experience, try the bar, where lunch is currently £32 for two courses. Otherwise, those with cash to splash can knock themselves out with four courses, Italian-style, and a bottle or two from the impressive Italian list – specialist subject Barolo (sub-£50 bottles are few). Vitello tonnato may now be ubiquitous in London but we’ll never tire of it when it's as satisfying as this. The veal is more well done than is fashionable – a good thing – but is tender and flavoursome beneath a generous spoon of tonnato mayonnaise and a frisky celery, artichoke and lemon salad. Terrific stuff. Fresh pasta is a standout: mezzi paccheri with a pork sausage ragù gains depth from anchovy and freshness from mint, while green and yellow variegated ribbons of tagliatelle with rabbit, lardo and green olives are comforting and luxurious in equal measure. Secondi at inspection include Hebridean lamb with caponata, Hereford beef fillet and short rib, and a dish of John Dory with mussels, mousserons, Jersey Royals and a frothy lemon verbena sauce. Tiramisu, like your nonna might make, is a bravely unfancy finish; vanilla panna cotta with Yorkshire rhubarb is a nicely executed pairing, if lacking the ‘Luca’ signature that characterises the restaurant's best dishes. Overall, a confident operation. Credit, in particular, for setting a tone as conducive to business as it is to pleasure.
If you’re a newcomer to the heavenly delight that is real burrata, then head to Lupo. Outside of Puglia, you’re unlikely to find anything so lusciously ethereal as that imported weekly to the favoured few of north Manc… Read more
If you’re a newcomer to the heavenly delight that is real burrata, then head to Lupo. Outside of Puglia, you’re unlikely to find anything so lusciously ethereal as that imported weekly to the favoured few of north Manchester by Roman-born barista-cum-baker Nico Pasquali. Obscure is the keyword: his tiny pasticceria and coffee shop has a touch of the speakeasy about it and, given its zero footfall on a small industrial estate, it’s pretty miraculous so many people are in the know. The place defies categorisation – caffe, coffee bar, wine bar, restaurant, takeaway and more – but it is stamped with Nino's hospitable personality. His loyal customers have followed him from various city locations, unwilling to forgo fluffy multi-flavoured doughnuts, perfect sourdough pizzas on Friday and Saturday (4pm-8pm), feather-light arancini, homemade tiramisu and arguably the best espresso in Manchester – don’t ask for a flat white. The setting is simple, with a lively, rough-and-ready vibe from the painted breeze blocks and red-and-white check plastic cloths to the great soundtrack. There are just two homely, seasonal, inexpensive and weekly changing lunch dishes, perhaps pasta with radicchio, Gorgonzola and walnuts (or with a sauce of fennel sausage, peas and mushrooms) and 'exceptional' white lasagne with courgettes, aubergine, pepper and béchamel, described as 'creamy, packed with layers of fresh pasta... dotted with little jewels of vegetables'. There are delicate daily pastries too, and a small selection of well-curated deli produce such as guanciale from Norcia (essential for carbonara), punchy pecorino and superb tinned tuna. Nino is fastidious about sourcing: even the rocket comes from Italy. Crisp and peppery, it is a revelation. Check the opening times, then come early – they sell out of the daily selection before you can say AS Roma.
Cool Shoreditch Italian with impressive artisan credentials
Frequent queues stretching out of the door are testament to the daily popularity of this trendy modern Italian, which is marked by an ornamental boar's head suspended above the entrance. Manteca is that sort of place, a Shoreditch… Read more
Frequent queues stretching out of the door are testament to the daily popularity of this trendy modern Italian, which is marked by an ornamental boar's head suspended above the entrance. Manteca is that sort of place, a Shoreditch resource named boldly after a variety of fat – lard, to be precise. Ground floor seats offers views into the open kitchen, while downstairs refrigerated cabinets of home-cured charcuterie whet the appetite (salumi and prosciutto are tip-top and not to be missed). An infectious buzz animates the whole restaurant, augmented by piped tunes that some may find passably funky.
The kitchen is deadly serious about sourcing from the best suppliers, menus often change several times a day, and the chefs have the autonomy to put new dishes together on the fly. The result is a much less formulaic repertoire than is often the Italian case. A plate of line-caught sea bass crudo dressed with green strawberries was a seasonal treat on our most recent visit, while a dramatic swoop of rich, silky duck liver parfait was served with black date jam and a pile of craggy chargrilled bread. Hand-rolled pasta stars in fazzoletti with duck-fat pangrattato or tonnarelli with brown crab cacio e pepe, ahead of mains from the wood-fired oven – perhaps John Dory, plaice or a premium cut of longhorn beef. Finish with a doorstop helping of almond cake with stone-fruit and vanilla gelato.
A minimal-waste approach sees some of the beef fat turning up in the fudge with coffee, while the copiously unusable bits of globe artichoke might eventually find their way into the house cynar liqueur. Service is temperamentally patchy – mostly hail-fellow, occasionally glum. However, eminently kind pricing earns the places bonus points, especially as Italian wines on tap start at £5.50 a glass. Adventurous imbibers, meanwhile, should home in the sections of the list entitled ‘down the rabbit hole’.
Brixton has a reputation for exciting startups and on-trend eateries, so it’s curious to find a traditional Italian neighbourhood restaurant in this part of town. The venue itself is done out in minimalist style (think expos… Read more
Brixton has a reputation for exciting startups and on-trend eateries, so it’s curious to find a traditional Italian neighbourhood restaurant in this part of town. The venue itself is done out in minimalist style (think exposed concrete, mirrors and dark wood accentuating a couple of large-format artworks) and named after the Maremma, an unspoilt region in the south of Tuscany famed for its sparkling seasonal produce (and its luscious Super Tuscan wines).
The kitchen shows its mettle with a repertoire of classically prepared dishes that are ‘deeply Italian’ rather than ornamental. Pasta is a good call, and it's done to a high standard, from pumpkin pansotti with butter and sage or chestnut tagliatelle with cavolo nero, chilli and new season’s olive oil to pappardelle with a velvety wild boar ragù. Elsewhere, rare-breed meats feature on the specials board and there’s prime seafood in the guise of, say, seared rosemary-encrusted tuna with rocket and aged pecorino. Desserts also offer temptations galore, from Stockwell honeycomb gelato to an ‘epic tiramisu’, while cheeses are artisan Italian beauties served with chestnut honey.
You can see the chefs at work, and everything is served without pretension by a knowledgeable, welcoming team. Reasonably priced Italian cocktails are well worth sipping at the counter, and the all-Italian wine list offers some ‘fantastic selections at affordable prices’. The owners also run Il Maremmano, an ‘apericena’ bar just round the corner on Tulse Hill.
Pleasing neighbourhood asset with an Italian flavour
A fixture of the local restaurant scene since 1984, Reuben Murray’s personally run neighbourhood eatery, wine shop, bakery and deli is just a short jaunt uphill from Clevedon’s pretty Victorian pier, at the top of a pl… Read more
A fixture of the local restaurant scene since 1984, Reuben Murray’s personally run neighbourhood eatery, wine shop, bakery and deli is just a short jaunt uphill from Clevedon’s pretty Victorian pier, at the top of a pleasant shopping street. The large glass frontage, silver-birch wallpaper and high ceilings give the place a light, airy feel that chimes perfectly with a menu of authentic Italian food featuring local and imported artisan produce.
Excellent pizzas and temptingly filled sandwiches satisfy the lunchtime crowd, alongside more sophisticated dishes such as a cicchetti-style starter of roast Delica pumpkin with chilli Clevedon honey, caciocavallo cheese and sage crisps or a pasta course of wild boar tortelloni with red pepper sauce. Substantial secondi might feature roast chicken leg with braised harissa chickpeas, potatoes, red onion and mint yoghurt, while desserts are traditional staples such as coffee panna cotta or warm Sicilian pannetone bread and butter pudding.
Fixed-price pizza/pasta deals liven up Tuesday and Wednesday nights, and there's a traditional Sunday roast too. On weekend evenings, the courtyard garden turns into an ‘enoteca’ with its own menu of cicchetti and antipasti to accompany choices from an impressive list of Italian wines, many of which you can also buy to take home from the adjoining deli.
When Ombra opened its doors by the banks of the Regent's Canal back in 2011, today’s gentrification was a long way off. Now this former retail site is custom-built for a taste of Venetian-style bacaro cool. Drop by on spec, … Read more
When Ombra opened its doors by the banks of the Regent's Canal back in 2011, today’s gentrification was a long way off. Now this former retail site is custom-built for a taste of Venetian-style bacaro cool. Drop by on spec, have a drink and a snack with some fresh bread from the owners’ bakery Forno – whatever you fancy. It's the perfect setting with its edgy but wonderfully whimsical interior design, tinted floor-to-ceiling windows and heated terrace for alfresco socialising.
Chef Mitshel Ibrahim (ex-Clove Club) conjures up some rare inventions, taking his cue from the traditions of regional Italian small-plates grazing, but adding flavours that are all his own – how about Carlingford oysters topped with startling cherry mustard? As for his light and crispy crostino topped with the most translucent home-cured pancetta, it ranks as ’one of the singularly most delicious mouthfuls I have ever tasted,’ drooled an inspector.
Other prize nibbles might range from a ‘cauliflower mushroom’ (sparassis) with Calabrian chilli and egg yolk to cured mackerel tartare with fennel and blood orange, although you must leave room for some silky hand-rolled pasta. Tagliatelle with well-judged anchovy butter and a generous amount of shaved truffle is a ‘triumph of less is more’, while crab tortelloni with crab ragù and hen of the woods brings delicacy as well as flavour to the table.
The menu also includes a couple of heftier ‘secondi’ too (a show-stopping dish of melting sweetbreads in perfectly balanced pea and mint velouté, say), while classic ‘dolci’ could herald panna cotta with poached pears or chestnut and roasted quince semifreddo. Since ‘ombra’ is Venetian dialect for a weeny glass of wine, it’s no surprise that drinkers have a ‘really interesting’ choice of Italian low-intervention tipples to sample. There are cool spritzs and aperitifs too.
Intimate and informal, with small, closely packed, square wooden tables ranged along either side of the dining room, this cool, modern Italian offers a short, daily changing menu of fresh stuffed pasta dressed in moreish sauces. T… Read more
Intimate and informal, with small, closely packed, square wooden tables ranged along either side of the dining room, this cool, modern Italian offers a short, daily changing menu of fresh stuffed pasta dressed in moreish sauces. The chefs in the open kitchen conjure magic from simple ingredients, say the ox cheek ragù that's used to fill casoncelli parcels (served on a bed of celeriac purée, garnished with bresaola and Parmesan). Antipasti includes fantastic sourdough focaccia and a salad of Italian tomatoes, ricotta, balsamic vinegar and deeply flavoured grass-green virgin olive oil. Dessert might be a perfectly wobbly panna cotta of pistachio and more of that wonderful olive oil; otherwise, opt for a generous slab of Italian cheese with homemade flatbread and mustard fruits. Though not quite as popular as big brother Pasta Loco, booking is advisable, especially if you want to take advantage of the extraordinarily good-value fixed-price lunch. The dozen or so reds and whites on the carefully chosen wine list showcase Italian vintages, although France, the New World and even Essex get a brief look in.
Housed in the Tardis-like basement of a Whiteladies Road townhouse, this is the latest and largest venture from the Bianchis Group, replacing the much-loved Pasta Loco round the corner. Aficionados of Loco and its sister Pasta Rip… Read more
Housed in the Tardis-like basement of a Whiteladies Road townhouse, this is the latest and largest venture from the Bianchis Group, replacing the much-loved Pasta Loco round the corner. Aficionados of Loco and its sister Pasta Ripiena will recognise the brown paper lampshades, white walls adorned with monochrome photos, slatted wood ceilings and numerous shelves groaning with wines, tinned tomatoes and other Italian delights. Ask the ‘attentive and knowledgeable’ waiting staff for a table in the back if you want to watch the chefs at work in the large open kitchen.
The promise of a list of global ingredients to point up the light, fresh and immaculately sourced modern cooking is lightly honoured – say, with a drop of cider in a dish of bucatini with braised cuttlefish, cream and agretti. Otherwise, it’s Italian all the way, from a snack of oyster mushroom fritti to a beautiful blush-hued radicchio insalata with mustard fruits, hazelnuts, apple and stracciatella. The short selection of desserts might include a perfectly wobbly limoncello panna cotta paired with rustic, crumbly rosemary and pistachio shortbread.
A predominantly Italian wine list is helpfully divided into light, medium and heavy, with a handful by the glass or 500ml carafe, plus ‘Nonna’s list’ of budget-blowing bottles. Cocktails are on special offer on Monday nights, and there are excellent-value fixed-price lunches from Tuesday to Friday.
With its rough-hewn brickwork and bare café tables, Jon Lawson's small but jumping joint off Old Street suits Shoreditch down to the ground. There's a Moorish, as well as moreish, air to some of the dishes, backed up by roc… Read more
With its rough-hewn brickwork and bare café tables, Jon Lawson's small but jumping joint off Old Street suits Shoreditch down to the ground. There's a Moorish, as well as moreish, air to some of the dishes, backed up by rock-solid Italian credentials founded on pasta made fresh in-house each day. Upstairs is a more conventional restaurant setting, but the counter seating on the ground floor, with chefs in the thick of it right before your eyes, is where the beating heart of the action is.
Up-to-the-minute flavours are strewn across the menu, from grilled tenderstem broccoli with egg yolk and pecorino to Dorset crab salad with merinda tomatoes and bottarga. High rollers might opt for seared tuna steak with Umbrian lentil and rosemary dressing or grilled ribeye accompanied by celeriac, cavolo nero and horseradish, although it would be a mistake to ignore the pasta – perhaps agnolotti with pork cheek and porcini butter or gnudi bianco (‘naked ravioli’ of ricotta and cavolo nero sauce).
Finish with burnt Basque cheesecake and baked apricots or honey panna cotta with rose-petal advieh (a Persian spice mix). The short wine list includes the expected clutch of skin-contact whites and a bevy of high-octane Italian reds.
You wouldn’t guess it from the name, but Sonny Stores is a charming neighbourhood Italian, set in a former corner shop amid the terraces and bay windows of Southville. Out front, a blackboard advertises takeaway pizzas, but … Read more
You wouldn’t guess it from the name, but Sonny Stores is a charming neighbourhood Italian, set in a former corner shop amid the terraces and bay windows of Southville. Out front, a blackboard advertises takeaway pizzas, but inside you’ll find no trace of Leaning Tower or Ponte Vecchio chintz: the interiors are bright and contemporary, with Fellini-esque terrazzo flooring, a smattering of potted plants and a sunflower painted over the door – indeed, it ‘feels like you’re in someone’s living room.’
The name ‘Sonny’ is borrowed from the son of owners Mary Glynn and chef Pegs Quinn (ex-River Café) – it's clear the restaurant they run together is also a labour of love. Antipasti are thoughtfully assembled – check out the excellent fat Nocellara olives and the much-loved (though admittedly not Italian) Cantabrian anchovies (chunky specimens doused in salt and oil). Starters might take inspiration from across the peninsula – there are northern Italian notes in a dish of crispy beef tongue with salsa rossa, though deep-fried whole quail with hot honey and crème fraîche on the side is more of a departure.
Pasta dishes might include looping pappardelle with rich chicken-liver ragù, parsley and Parmesan – though our standout dish was a main course of poached cod in a rich broth of clams ‘acqua pazza’, resting on bruschetta that absorbed the flavours. Some might round off with pear ice cream, brown sugar and walnut; others go for a generous slab of tiramisu. Also look out for the good-value weekday set lunches.
If it was a toss-up between Stuzzi’s Harrogate original and its more recent Leeds offshoot, readers confirm that the younger, West Yorkshire sibling would win every time. It might not look much from the outside (blacked-out … Read more
If it was a toss-up between Stuzzi’s Harrogate original and its more recent Leeds offshoot, readers confirm that the younger, West Yorkshire sibling would win every time. It might not look much from the outside (blacked-out windows, gold signage and a message announcing 'importers and purveyors of fine Italian stuff’), but step inside and head up to the attractive attic room, where delights aplenty await. Against a backdrop of concrete floors, contemporary bentwood chairs, rustic arches and shelves of wine bottles, visitors can dip into a roster of Italian small plates in the modern idiom. The restaurant’s name is short for ‘stuzzichini’ (the little dishes served with drinks in osterias and bars across Italy) and the kitchen delivers. Highlights from the day’s 12-dish menu might include anything from Stuzzi’s famous deep-fried pig’s head terrine with chilli, lemon and 'nduja aïoli to Puglian burrata with roasted artichoke, focaccia croûtons, pistachio and sorrel pesto. Local ingredients also get star billing, be it Harewood Estate venison tartare or chargrilled Yorkshire asparagus wrapped in home-cured chilli lardo with crispy wheat and confit lemon. For afters, treat yourself to a panino gelato (a homemade choux bun filled with Yorkshire rhubarb, vanilla gelato and Stuzzi gin). The lengthy wine list wends its way exhaustively through the Italian regions, with plenty of prestigious labels on show and prices from £25 upwards.
The low-key, glass frontage doesn’t give much away, but Trentina is truly a local diamond, a cheerfully informal addition to Birmingham's vibrant Jewellery Quarter scene. Inside, it looks and feels sparsely contemporary. Her… Read more
The low-key, glass frontage doesn’t give much away, but Trentina is truly a local diamond, a cheerfully informal addition to Birmingham's vibrant Jewellery Quarter scene. Inside, it looks and feels sparsely contemporary. Here you will find big flavours on a short menu that leans heavily on the daily use of the pasta-roller. Dunwood Farm beef bolognese with pappardelle or Devon crab and ricotta ravioli are simple, satisfying and good value. Courgette fritti with aïoli or Cobble Lane fennel and garlic salami could open proceedings, while dessert choices are limited – say a creamy tiramisu or various soft-serve ice creams. A brief, reasonably priced all-Italian wine list offers just one option by the glass/carafe.
In the Harborne district of Birmingham, Tropea is spiritually twinned with southern Italy's Calabrian coast. Opened in 2021, it's a love letter to Italian regional cooking, set within a clean-lined space that has the feel of a mod… Read more
In the Harborne district of Birmingham, Tropea is spiritually twinned with southern Italy's Calabrian coast. Opened in 2021, it's a love letter to Italian regional cooking, set within a clean-lined space that has the feel of a modern refettorio, now with tables outside too. Reporters praise the exceptional staff, and the sharing ethos of the menus, which encourages much happy mixing and matching. The bidding opens with inspired antipasti selections such as charred green friggitelli (finger chillies) dressed in garlic and Maldon sea salt, or wafer slices of raw scallop with pink grapefruit and pickled radish. Pasta is a sure-fire hit, perhaps for pappardelle with rich rabbit ragù simmered in white wine and finished with 24-month parmigiano, while the robust approach to principal dishes might embrace monkfish grilled on the bone and served with Jersey Royals and peperonata in fragrant salmoriglio dressing. Pink-cooked barbecued lamb in salsa verde comes with a crisply fresh salad of those Tropea onions and ricotta. Anybody leaving without having bitten into one of the bombolone filled doughnuts has missed a trick – they are a textural sensation. Not surprisingly, Italy is the reference point for an approachable wine list with plenty by the glass or carafe. Note that the owners recently acquired the building next door, which will allow them to increase the number of covers, add a bar/counter dining and extend their opening hours.
Warmth 'with a capital W’ is one of the prime assets at this Islington crowd-puller, which has been hitting all the right notes since opening in 2010. Matching a glowing interior and pleasing comfort with homely but vivaciou… Read more
Warmth 'with a capital W’ is one of the prime assets at this Islington crowd-puller, which has been hitting all the right notes since opening in 2010. Matching a glowing interior and pleasing comfort with homely but vivacious Italian food, Trullo is a neighbourhood winner – whether you’re seated in the pleasingly modest ground floor (bare boards, velvet banquettes, cream walls, cheffy photos) or settled in an alcove in the atmospheric, low-lit basement. The whole place exudes a happy vibe, helped along by calm, cool, clued-up staff. On offer is a menu of unfussy yet finessed cooking with hand-rolled pasta as one of the star turns – from silky pappardelle with a deeply rich, long-cooked beef ragù to textbook pici cacio e pepe (the comforting squidge of perfectly cooked pasta, the sharpness of pecorino, the heat as you crunch into the cracked black pepper). Paper tablecloths mean you can get messy without embarrassment. After that, the oven and charcoal grill come into play, doling out everything from Brixham brill with confit garlic to spiced duck leg with Marsala – its exceptionally crispy skin contrasting with the sticky, softness of stewed onion, endive and prunes. Details such as the salt-crusted focaccia with fruity, pleasantly bitter Le Ferre estate olive oil for dipping are much appreciated, and there’s no stinting on the booze when it’s tiramisu time. Drinks include a decent selection of vermouths and a comprehensive list of Italian regional wines.
Edinburgh’s Italian gastro-scene owes a great deal to members of the Contini dynasty, in fact their original deli and wine store remains ‘numero uno’ in the city with its treasure-trove of artisan provisions. Thr… Read more
Edinburgh’s Italian gastro-scene owes a great deal to members of the Contini dynasty, in fact their original deli and wine store remains ‘numero uno’ in the city with its treasure-trove of artisan provisions. Thread your way past the shelves of comestibles and regional wines to reach the jam-packed caffè bar at the back of the premises. Informal, all-day eating is the name of the game, and everything hinges on top-notch ingredients – including plenty of seasonal Scottish produce.
Drop by for breakfast (perhaps a signature ‘panetella’ sandwich with proper kick-start coffee) or call in later for some handmade pasta – spaghettini with palourde clams or orecchiette with cime di rape, anchovies and extra-virgin olive oil. Otherwise, share an antipasti platter or graze on a salad of fennel, orange and goat’s cheese. After that, move on to a ‘primi’ plate of, say, fritto misto or pistachio-crumbed lamb rump, before rounding off with V&C’s bombolone doughnuts, a delectable cake or some gelati.
The owners are wine merchants par excellence, and you can access their authoritative cellar by choosing a bottle from the shop; just add £8 to the retail price, and you're good to go. Alternatively, browse the short caffè list from your table; bottles start at £17, and everything is available by the glass.
Inspired by London’s bacaro-style eateries, the hands-on Leggiero brothers have brought some true Italian aperitivo spirit to this animated spot beside a busy road in suburban Leeds. Zucco certainly looks the part – hi… Read more
Inspired by London’s bacaro-style eateries, the hands-on Leggiero brothers have brought some true Italian aperitivo spirit to this animated spot beside a busy road in suburban Leeds. Zucco certainly looks the part – high stools, subway-tiled walls, black-and-white chequerboard floors, filament bulbs dangling from a copper-panel ceiling – and its menu ticks all the boxes. With brother Michael overseeing proceedings, the kitchen turns out kindly priced Italian small plates and sharing dishes with bags of personality and all the right accents. Pizzette and pastas are always a good shout – perhaps spaghetti with polpette or baccala (salt cod) ravioli with sage and white wine – but other items also catch the eye. How about chargrilled octopus with saffron potatoes or pork belly stuffed with apricots, sun-blush tomatoes and capers? Meanwhile, sweet-toothed punters can revel in a line-up of all-Italian classics – affogato, sgroppino, lemon and polenta cake, ricotta-filled cannoli, (vegan) gelati and so on. Equally classic cocktails share the billing with a short list of Italian regional wines, including plenty by the glass or carafe.
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