Bottega Caruso
Margate, Kent
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Margate harbours a wealth of great places to eat, and Bottega Caruso was one of the first to drop anchor. Simona Di Dio and Harry Ryder’s family-run ‘little Italian kitchen’ in the Old Town has become a destination for anyone seeking the true flavours of Italy’s Campania region. The friendly, unpretentious space embodies the informal nature of the food: ingredients-driven, rustic dishes rooted in the culinary traditions of Simona’s fertile home region of Sannio, north of Naples. Simona’s grandma’s recipe for verdura e fagioli (greens and beans) – a permanent fixture on the menu – and polpette di pane al sugo (bread balls in tomato sauce) epitomise the approach here: a showcase of food born of necessity, resourcefulness and ingenuity, or cibo povero, made with produce of the highest order. Nibbles and ‘small(ish)’ plates delivered on earthenware plates and bowls – perhaps bitter spring leaves with croûtons, anchovy, garlic and sheep's ricotta, or aubergine parmigiana – precede freshly made pastas, anointed with something seasonal. Tiramisu is a fitting closing act. The predominantly organic, biodynamic and natural wine list heralds some of the best producers in Italy, and helpful advice for those less familiar with low-intervention wines is always on hand.
