Luca
Clerkenwell, London
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The Italian member of the Clove Club famiglia is, much like its sibling, almost as well known for its bar as for its restaurant. So it is with some reluctance that we forgo Negroni-based fun in favour of the dining room where we have a reservation. Until we clap eyes on the space itself, that is: a stunning covered garden worthy of a Roman palazzo. Seating is inside, in an attractive cosmopolitan room, or outside on the terrace, with its fireplace, cobbles and foliage (you can specify where you sit when you reserve). It’s currently a tough business running a restaurant – we sense the staff are primed to get us started on cocktails and snacks before we get a look at the menu. Still, if you’re going to go ‘all in’, this is the place to do so. (For the Luca-on-a-budget experience, try the bar, where lunch is £26 for two courses). Those with cash to splash can knock themselves out with four courses, Italian-style, and a bottle or two from the impressive Italian list – specialist subject Barolo (sub-£50 bottles are few). Vitello tonnato may now be ubiquitous in London but we’ll never tire of it when it's as satisfying as this. The veal is more well done than is fashionable – a good thing – but is tender and flavoursome beneath a generous spoon of tonnato mayonnaise and a frisky celery, artichoke and lemon salad. Terrific stuff. Fresh pasta is a standout: mezzi paccheri with a pork sausage ragù gains depth from anchovy and freshness from mint, while green and yellow variegated ribbons of tagliatelle with rabbit, lardo and green olives are comforting and luxurious in equal measure. Secondi at inspection include Hebridean lamb with caponata, Hereford beef fillet and short rib, and a dish of John Dory with mussels, mousserons, Jersey Royals and a frothy lemon verbena sauce. Tiramisu, like your nonna might make, is a bravely unfancy finish; vanilla panna cotta with Yorkshire rhubarb is a nicely executed pairing, if lacking the ‘Luca’ signature that characterises the restaurant's best dishes. Overall, a confident operation. Credit, in particular, for setting a tone as conducive to business as it is to pleasure.
