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Maremma

London, Brixton - Italian - Restaurant - ££

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Very Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

Given that Brixton has a reputation for exciting startups, it’s curious to find what is essentially a traditional Italian neighbourhood restaurant cropping up in this part of town. It's a very considered place done out in minimalist style (think exposed concrete, mirrors and dark wood accentuating a couple of large-format artworks) and named after the Maremma, an unspoilt region in the south of Tuscany famed for its sparkling seasonal produce (and its luscious Super Tuscan wines). The kitchen shows its mettle with a repertoire of classically prepared dishes that are ‘deeply Italian’ rather than ornamental. Pasta is a good call, and it's done to a high standard, from pumpkin pansotti with butter and sage or pici with pistachio pesto to pappardelle with a ‘velvety and effortlessly soft’ wild boar ragù. Elsewhere, beef battuta (an Italian take in beef tartare) is everything you could wish for, while seafood might be represented by butterflied mack...

Given that Brixton has a reputation for exciting startups, it’s curious to find what is essentially a traditional Italian neighbourhood restaurant cropping up in this part of town. It's a very considered place done out in minimalist style (think exposed concrete, mirrors and dark wood accentuating a couple of large-format artworks) and named after the Maremma, an unspoilt region in the south of Tuscany famed for its sparkling seasonal produce (and its luscious Super Tuscan wines). The kitchen shows its mettle with a repertoire of classically prepared dishes that are ‘deeply Italian’ rather than ornamental. Pasta is a good call, and it's done to a high standard, from pumpkin pansotti with butter and sage or pici with pistachio pesto to pappardelle with a ‘velvety and effortlessly soft’ wild boar ragù. Elsewhere, beef battuta (an Italian take in beef tartare) is everything you could wish for, while seafood might be represented by butterflied mackerel with beetroot salad and salsa verde. Also, don’t miss the heady, sweet pumpkin sformato served with truffle cream and truffle shavings if it's available – ‘an autumnal masterclass of a dish.’ Everything is served simply and without pretension by a knowledgeable, welcoming team. Reasonably priced Italian cocktails are well worth sipping at the counter, and the all-Italian wine list is loaded with affordable selections by the glass or 500ml carafe.

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VENUE DETAILS

36 Brixton Water Lane
Brixton
SW2 1PEGB

020 3186 4011

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OTHER INFORMATION

Private dining room, Counter seating, Family friendly, Dog friendly, Deposit required

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