Feature Published 28 February 2025
Unreserved: Jimi Famurewa on how the minimum spend trend is squeezing the spirit out of restaurants
To be a restaurant critic is to be a bruised veteran of the modern reservations system and the tangled politics of booking cancellations. It’s just one of hidden realities of the gig; the stressed, keyboard-tapping little figure hunched behind the curtain of the profession’s glamorously puffed-up public presentation. I have lost innumerable hours engaged in the weeks-long hokey-cokey of booking, ...