Lupo

Nico Pasquali has been serving excellent Roman pizzas, pastas and pastries for over 10 years, and even though his homely little all-day trattoria is now located in the incongruous setting of an industrial estate, there is still a steady flow of customers who persevere and find their (slightly bemused) way here.  A wooden extension has doubled the number of covers, but it’s still limited and worth booking ahead.

The vibe is friendly, unfussy and unpretentious, although Nico’s regulars also come for his precisely cooked traditional dishes made with prime ingredients flown in from Italy or fresh from his allotment. They are the perfect antidote to the standard Anglo-Italian repertoire, and the glitzy but vacuous styling of most high-street chains. Popular (and reasonably priced) dishes might range from rigatoni with guanciale, chilli and pecorino to arancini, suppli (deep-fried pizza balls) and Roman Jewish artichokes. There's also a list of specials that may feature orecchiette with Italian fennel sausages and romanesco broccoli, as well as whole baked sea bass cooked with cherry tomatoes and olives. 

To drink, there's a modest collection of artisan Italian wines, as well as cocktails and Italian beers. The coffee also receives rave notices, but it’s the X factor that makes Lupo stand out: 'It's rare these days to find someone who not only runs the place but also takes the time to chat with guests, share stories and make sure everyone feels at home. And the food – wow.'