We’re heartened to see more and more eateries in Wales asserting their gastronomic and cultural independence, plundering their native larder and creating dishes that are shot through with emphatic Welshness. It’s a theme that chimes with the Guide’s notion of local establishments nourishing their local communities – from Paternoster Farm in pastoral Pembrokeshire to edgy urban restaurants such as The Shed, which occupies a former grain store on Swansea’s docks and serves refreshingly different Welsh-accented dishes to a hip local crowd. In Cardiff’s Rhiwbina suburb we were also mightily impressed by Mesen – a cool venue that positively exudes team spirit and offers a fired-up take on small-plates dining. Up north, in Menai Bridge on the Isle of Anglesey, Mike-Jones’ Freckled Angel continues to please the locals with its offbeat style, terrific value for money and cleverly rendered, eclectic dishes. However, we had no hesitation in awarding our winning accolade for Wales to Inn at the Sticks in Llansteffan, Carmarthenshire. Essentially a pub with rooms, it also does duty as a deli, wine bar and restaurant, run with great local spirit by owners Teej and Jenks Sparks. A Welsh ‘home from home’, if ever there was one.
Best Local Restaurant: Wales
Inn at the Sticks
Llansteffan, Carmarthenshire
A proper village pub that infectiously welcomes drinkers and offers a Welsh sharing plates menu brimming with locally sourced ingredients. It also has a genuinely lovely line in hospitality.
It may appear to be just another village pub – wood burners, wood floors, plain tables – but look harder and there is a great little deli (with the only sourdough for miles around), and awe-inspiring wine shelves. But the best part is the food: the locally sourced sharing plates menu keeps pace with a nifty mix of the traditional and the cosmopolitan. It’s a lovely, vibrant place and owner Teej Sparks and her team can’t do enough for you. A perfect regional winner.
A Good Food Guide reader said:
'You can taste the joy in the innovative creations from the kitchen, brimming with locally sourced ingredients. Astonishing flavours, colour, and verve, as well as remarkable skill and a friendly vibe, make this place so, so special.'
Owner Teej Sparks said of the award:
'We have only been trading since July 2023 so to receive this accolade is just incredible. The devotion and dedication that the whole team has shown since day one makes us so proud to be part of this wonderful women-led team. Tracy and I believe that we have some of the best chefs that Wales has to offer. Deb Neale and Mel Fairman have worked together for 35 years and you can taste that experience with every mouthful. The whole team has a passion that you do not often see in this industry and it shines through on every plate and glass of wine that is served. We are thrilled and cannot wait to start the next phase of this incredible journey'
Read the Inn at the Sticks Good Food Guide review
Best Local Restaurants in Wales 2024
Congratulations to all the restaurants in Wales that have made it onto our list of Britain's 100 Best Local Restaurants 2024. Explore the tiles below to discover who made the list and to read their full reviews in The Good Food Guide.
