Our favourite wine-led restaurants Published 08 November 2024
'Wine... the intellectual part of the meal', according to Alexandre Dumas. Here at The Good Food Guide, we know that where there is good food, good wine usually follows. A glass (or bottle) of well-matched wine can bring out the best of a meal, so here are some of our favourite venues where delicious food meets great wine.
A useful address on Kingly Street, this tiny corridor of a wine bar – high stools, tapas-style tables, a scattering of outside seating – is the place to come for a glass of wine and tasty, snacky food ranging from plat… Read more
A useful address on Kingly Street, this tiny corridor of a wine bar – high stools, tapas-style tables, a scattering of outside seating – is the place to come for a glass of wine and tasty, snacky food ranging from plates of Neal's Yard cheese and Cobble Lane coppa to an excellent beef sando (with a vibrant purée of dill and pickled cucumber). An interesting and unusual list of low-intervention wines from European producers, plus a couple of cocktails, keep this relaxed spot nicely buzzing.
The waiting staff would doubtless be rich if they had a pound for every customer who joked on seeing the menu: 'I'll have one of everything.' With it's compelling combinations and alluring flavours, choosing is a challenging task;… Read more
The waiting staff would doubtless be rich if they had a pound for every customer who joked on seeing the menu: 'I'll have one of everything.' With it's compelling combinations and alluring flavours, choosing is a challenging task; what to leave out? The sharing plate ethos helps maximise options, with Middle Eastern and European ideas monopolising the output from the kitchen with its centrepiece wood-fired oven. From the man behind the Coal Shed and the Salt Room, Burnt Orange has become the city's hot spot since opening in 2021 on Middle Street beside one of the narrow 'twitten' passageways. There is a small patio with an awning if you feel the need but indoors is where the joyous energy of the place is best appreciated. The glistening flatbreads come straight out the flames and onto your table and are essential for soaking up the flavours (and adding carbs if you're hungry). From the flames comes what must surely be the signature dish: mangalitza pork belly with a spiced coffee rub and some pickled fennel, while the ubiquitous (in hipster circles) charred hispi cabbage is spiced up with harissa. Among the starter plates, a splendid slab of Sussex halloumi is drizzled with spiced fig honey (the delivery of courses occurs at a sensible pace), and seafood figures in spiced calamari with a preserved lemon aïoli, or sea bream with basil yoghurt and mango dressing. Just a couple of dessert options might include Arabic coffee torte. Cocktails are no afterthought here: a dozen zingers including the Burnt Orange Martini made with Salcombe gin and Lillet Blanc vermouth from Bordeaux. The wine list opens at £22.
The younger sibling of Covino in Chester is altogether a larger, more aspirational affair. Its greatest USP is the location. Although not the first to fly high in the sky over Manchester's city centre, it keeps the urban panorama … Read more
The younger sibling of Covino in Chester is altogether a larger, more aspirational affair. Its greatest USP is the location. Although not the first to fly high in the sky over Manchester's city centre, it keeps the urban panorama centre stage with clean, modern lines and a clever use of the rooftop space. The wrap-around interior provides every frill-free table with a pigeon’s eye view; high chairs border the long counter of the open kitchen. The connecting garden area (note the beehives) provides ample seating to satisfy the Mancunian thirst for sunshine when it appears. Climat describes itself as a 'wine-led' restaurant, a reference to their impressively stocked cellar. Burgundy leads the pack but doesn’t dominate. A Xinomavro 2018 from Macedonia had big flavours that partnered well with a robust dish of lamb leg, roasted cauliflower and kale. Unfortunately, the wine descriptions are generic; a sommelier or more informed serving staff might have helped guide the choice. The sharing-plates menu is a good spread of classic and modern, with a broadly Gallic orientation, plus retro and international references: salt fish beignets with aïoli and herb salad; prawn cocktail with avocado mousse and baby gem vol-au-vents; Tamworth pork chop with flat beans and Pommery mustard. The kitchen shows a deft hand with vegetables and salads, which are often enlivened with bitter notes – a combo of beetroot, whipped tofu, charcoal vinaigrette and mustard cress, for example, contrasted its creamy, light and earthy elements well. But there are slips, too, from an excessively oily dressing on purple sprouting broccoli to a plum tarte fine that proved unremarkable. Luckily, the quartet of well-sourced cheeses (a sheep’s milk St Helena; Roquefort-like sheep’s milk Regalis; a lactic, soft goat’s milk Elrick Log; and raw milk Baron Bigod) proved a better finale. It may be unfair to compare Climat with older sibling Covino (both are relaxed and innovative, without being gimmicky), but at inspection we found the latter offered a much more happy-making experience.
Corkage has always felt like the kind of neighbourhood restaurant that can give a neighbourhood a good name. The original manifestation was in an engaging tiny space quite a way up Walcot Street and was so successful a larger bran… Read more
Corkage has always felt like the kind of neighbourhood restaurant that can give a neighbourhood a good name. The original manifestation was in an engaging tiny space quite a way up Walcot Street and was so successful a larger branch opened in Chapel Row, just off Queen Square. Post-pandemic, only the Chapel Row branch has survived. A long and narrow dining room with chunky wood furniture, bookended by a snug front bar and a timbered and tented rear terrace, it’s instantly appealing, a very attractive operation with rough edges but with its heart in the right place. It works as a wine and small-plates bar, offering great value, breezy, friendly service, and bags of atmosphere. The short, regularly changing menu is reflective of the Mediterranean basin, the seasons, and the chef’s enthusiasms. Thus you’ll find cured-and-torched mackerel fillet with soured cream, vermouth jelly and breadcrumbs alongside lamb sweetbreads with a mix of peas, broad beans and shallots, a dab of labneh and a smear of herb oil. Or there could be slow-braised shoulder of lamb with butter beans, lemon and greens, and nicely charred octopus atop chickpea purée with a red pepper and onion salad. Pudding might be a tart (perhaps lemon with crème fraîche) or a special of burnt Catalan cheesecake. Not the least attraction of the place is the long list of kindly priced wines, a mainly classy Eurocentric coterie with skin contact and 'funky' offerings, plus a good by-the-glass selection.
Inventive seasonal small plates and intriguing natural wines
Reopened in January 2025 after a seasonal refit that brought an extension to the kitchen and a revamped bar area, Erst retains its industrial-chic styling – and still fits seamlessly into the regenerated Ancoats district as … Read more
Reopened in January 2025 after a seasonal refit that brought an extension to the kitchen and a revamped bar area, Erst retains its industrial-chic styling – and still fits seamlessly into the regenerated Ancoats district as a reliable and often inspiring local resource. Patrick Withington is a confirmed exponent of the small-plates approach, and much of what the kitchen turns out is surprising, ingeniously constructed and founded on excellent prime materials. Even the salads score highly for lively mixtures of flavour – witness castelfranco leaves offsetting the creaminess of Corra Linn (a hard sheep's cheese from Lanarkshire), with pear and walnuts in support.
The flatbread that arrives well lubricated with beef fat and scattered with flakes of dried Turkish urfa chilli fully deserves the legendary status it has acquired. Tema artichoke with fermented celeriac in barigoule broth showed a delicate approach to winter warming at our visit, while the skewered lamb coated in ras el hanout butter (another established favourite) was as spicily and fragrantly satisfying as ever. By contrast, skate wing in sherry seemed a clash of mistimed elements, but a dessert of olive-oil cake with ricotta ice cream and candied citron is still a good bet for those who have wearied of salty caramel.
Natural wines are the hot ticket among the drinks, and it's worth gleaning some advice from your server about what goes best with what. Before you get embroiled, though, consider the house aperitif, which might involve celery liqueur and apple shrub in a productive liaison with gin and house vermouth.
Quite possibly Edinburgh's best seafood restaurant
In a small city such as Edinburgh, neighbourhoods have a habit of losing out to the bright lights and buzz of whatever happens in the centre. That said, Bruntsfield hot spot Fin & Grape has all the hallmarks of a fine nei… Read more
In a small city such as Edinburgh, neighbourhoods have a habit of losing out to the bright lights and buzz of whatever happens in the centre. That said, Bruntsfield hot spot Fin & Grape has all the hallmarks of a fine neighbourhood bistro – think crossback chairs and a bright, unfussy dining room with a broody little wine bar tucked in the basement. Despite the postcode, the cooking from chef-patron Stuart Smith is anything but parochial. This may well be the best seafood restaurant in Edinburgh.
Small plates form the bulk of the menu, with around half a dozen options in play and freshly landed fish always on the agenda. On a recent visit, langoustines were served cold, with an emerald-hued wild garlic mayonnaise, all herbal, metallic and fragrant – a deft match for the wonderfully taut, sweet shellfish. A simple idea, but flawlessly executed. Elsewhere, a combo of Isle of Wight tomato, goat's curd and finocchiona salame arrived lightly warmed, bringing delightful intensity to every element, while a bowl of crab and hake wontons flourished in a majestic, spicy bisque, with a lingering, briny funk piercing through the chilli heat. The bowl was emptied to a chorus of scraping spoons and contented muttering.
With market fish a regular sight on the specials board, expect the likes of a show-stopping tranche of monkfish, carved and served like a prime cut of beef, and lavished with an obscenely buttery parsley sauce – immaculately cooked, of course. A lovely little pot of tart rhurarb with mascarpone, Pedro Ximénez and crunchy toasted oats sealed the deal for us. The comprehensive but accessible wine list has a distinctly French accent and at least a dozen options by the glass, while a separate, more indulgent 'cellar list' is available for those seeking to mark an occasion – or to create one.
Swans in the middle of Manchester! Who would have thought? But Flawd is on the New Islington Marina, a network of canals and water basins now home to barges and wildfowl, new apartments, green spaces and walkways. The feel is Dutc… Read more
Swans in the middle of Manchester! Who would have thought? But Flawd is on the New Islington Marina, a network of canals and water basins now home to barges and wildfowl, new apartments, green spaces and walkways. The feel is Dutch or Scandinavian, enhanced by a fine-weather terrace. It’s a suitable setting for a contemporary bottle shop, wine bar and sharing-plate eatery of restricted size with a buzzy atmosphere, enthusiastic staff and a funky playlist. As soon as you walk in, you know it’s a place in which to have fun.
The blackboard menu changes regularly and features local and regional ingredients such as Lancaster smoked mackerel, Garstang Blue cheese and ‘big dollops’ of outstanding sourdough bread from neighbouring bakery Pollen. Charcuterie is from Curing Rebels in Brighton, however, although who cares about regional pedantry when it’s this good?
This place has pedigree, and it shows: flair and imagination define the largely plant-focused cooking, which goes big on flavour. Unctuous whipped split-pea dip might be paired with fermented kale or spring onions, while stewed autumn tomatoes are served with ‘nduja and garlic toast. Elsewhere, grilled romanesco is paired with goat’s curd and treviso (‘a deliciously earthy combo’), and assorted brassicas are heaped with autumnal chestnut mushrooms and topped with shavings of cured ox heart (like ‘poor people’s truffle’).
The word Flawd refers to an 18th-century term meaning ‘drunk’, which is fitting as they major on natural and low-intervention wines from small producers. It’s also a trick to disabuse drinkers of the perception that such wines are ‘flawed’. With a range of styles by the glass, it’s easy to delve into this brave new world – and if that lacks appeal, there’s also an excellent choice of craft beer. Note: there are no reservations and no desserts. A flaw, perhaps, but not a fatal one.
After years of pop-ups, this Italian-inspired restaurant group is firmly established south of the river with permanent spots in Peckham (Forza Wine) and Camberwell (Forza Win). Now a third venue – its most ambitious project … Read more
After years of pop-ups, this Italian-inspired restaurant group is firmly established south of the river with permanent spots in Peckham (Forza Wine) and Camberwell (Forza Win). Now a third venue – its most ambitious project to date – is to be found on the second floor of The National Theatre. The concrete, wood and glass 160-seater is the place to pop in for drinks – Forza’s special cherry Negroni leads the cocktail charge and there’s an interesting list of approachable, modern European wines including plenty by the glass. From the kitchen comes a compact, seasonally aware list of Italian-style small plates to share. To begin, we enjoyed a generous serving of cauliflower fritti with aïoli, as well as a satisfying plate of potato, pancetta and porcini mushrooms. As dishes arrive when they are ready, we happily discovered that roasted Delica pumpkin set atop a pool of creamy pearl barley and sage worked really well with pink, well-flavoured slices of lamb shoulder, celeriac and salsa verde. Each of these items was simply executed and tasted deliciously of its excellent well-sourced ingredients, although not everything we sampled passed muster. However, there was nothing awry about our milk soft serve with roasted apple and a topping of candied walnut; the famed ‘Custardo’ – an affogato made with custard – is not to be missed, either. While on-the-ball staff check if you are dining pre-theatre, such is Forza’s following that few people depart when the final call sounds for the Lyttelton Theatre one floor down – the atmosphere remains lively. It's also worth checking out the pleasant, partially covered terrace looking onto the river and Waterloo Bridge.
Innovative ‘bistronomy’ with a terrific natural wine list
From the moment we walked in on a cold January day, we were greeted with warm smiles and immediately felt at ease with the casual vibe that emanates from this neighbourhood gem – a tribute to New York DJ Larry Levan. In… Read more
From the moment we walked in on a cold January day, we were greeted with warm smiles and immediately felt at ease with the casual vibe that emanates from this neighbourhood gem – a tribute to New York DJ Larry Levan. Inside, the dining space is fitted out with deep-blue walls, mahogany-topped tables, concrete flooring, dark blue banquettes and an open-plan kitchen. And, of course, there's a cool soundtrack.
As for the cooking, expect Austrian chef Philip Limpl's ‘bistronomy’-inspired sharing plates of seasonal, contemporary food. We kicked things off with a hillock of chickpea fries topped with Comté cheese plus some saffron aïoli on the side, followed by beef tartare innovatively paired with persimmon and green peppercorns. Smoked chalk stream trout, which arrived with crushed potatoes, charred tenderstem broccoli and verjus, was light and tasty – another success. To conclude, a chocolate and sticky caramel torte worked surprisingly well with a wild mushroom ice cream (made from fungal ‘scrappings’ to avoid waste).
If you have a fondness for natural wines, then you've come to the right place: there's a wine bar and shop next door, while the comprehensive inventory of organic, low-intervention and biodynamic bottles from across Europe starts from £32. The Jura (a region that often gets overlooked) receives special attention – look for the ‘vin jaune’ jewel, Château-Chalon 1993.
‘A beacon of freshness and seasonality’ in the elegant environs of Herne Hill, independently owned Llewelyn’s has more than proved its worth as a neighbourhood asset with chef Lasse Petersen at the helm. Large wi… Read more
‘A beacon of freshness and seasonality’ in the elegant environs of Herne Hill, independently owned Llewelyn’s has more than proved its worth as a neighbourhood asset with chef Lasse Petersen at the helm. Large windows flood the pale walls of the dining room with natural light, reflected by gilt-edged mirrors, while the sumptuous leather of the green banquettes makes a naturally inviting place to linger during an unhurried lunchtime. Despite the relative simplicity of the menu descriptions, there is much afoot in the dishes: a rösti is embellished with smoked eel and mustard leaf, while monkfish is given the seasonal treatment with capers, crab and Brussels sprouts.
There are touches of traditionalism too:crisp-skinned pollack might be honour-guarded with mussels and sauced with a rich bisque, while grilled leg of lamb could be dressed with bagna cauda and charred greens. Veggies might fancy something cheesy – perhaps Roquefort with marinated figs, grapes and frisée or a Comté soufflé with creamed spinach and autumn truffle. Desserts play the seasonal card, from a set cream with winter citrus and pistachio to a ‘mince pie’ riff on Arctic roll.
Service exudes ‘unwavering warmth and impeccable hospitality,’ according to one devotee, while an eclectic collection of wines, including a welter of skin-contact gear, adds to the allure. The owners also run a shop and wine bar called Lulu's, next door to the restaurant.
World-class wines and compelling cooking from a modern classic
The Noble Rot concept is disarmingly simple: lay on modern bistro food with its roots in the French repertoire, add a massive portfolio of world-class wines at affordable prices, and they will come. Even when there are only a coup… Read more
The Noble Rot concept is disarmingly simple: lay on modern bistro food with its roots in the French repertoire, add a massive portfolio of world-class wines at affordable prices, and they will come. Even when there are only a couple of early birds in, the atmosphere is already tingling – of course, it helps that staff are always warmly amiable and helpful. Here at the original Bloomsbury branch of the three NR siblings, the ambience of dark wood, framed graphic art and chalkboard specials invites due comparison with Parisian places, as does the lively, compelling cooking.
One seafood aficionado ate a summer lunch of Brixham crab mayonnaise with crispy polenta and seaweed, ahead of braised Cornish turbot in a delightful sauce of oxidised Chablis Grand Cru (Dauvissat's 1988 ‘Les Clos’, no less), and emerged wondering what had taken her so long to get here. Other temptations have been smoked ox tongue with mustard cream and saladings, and mains ranging from roast Landes guinea fowl in Madeira with celeriac and truffle to tenderly juicy pheasant with chestnuts and soft polenta. The chocolate mousse cake is as irresistible a menu fixture as it was when it first appeared, but Basque cheesecake with Yorkshire rhubarb will run it close.
And then we come to the wines. With taster glasses for a couple of sips from £3, but rising to Daumas Gassac and Barolo aged a decade and more, there is a world of adventures better than roller coasters awaiting you. Bottle prices start at £27 for Iberian house selections, but if price is a mere frippery, aim your sights at the flotilla of Old and New World classics that follow.
When Ombra opened its doors by the banks of the Regent's Canal back in 2011, today’s gentrification was a long way off. Now this former retail site is custom-built for a taste of Venetian-style bacaro cool. Drop by on spec, … Read more
When Ombra opened its doors by the banks of the Regent's Canal back in 2011, today’s gentrification was a long way off. Now this former retail site is custom-built for a taste of Venetian-style bacaro cool. Drop by on spec, have a drink and a snack with some fresh bread from the owners’ bakery Forno – whatever you fancy. It's the perfect setting with its edgy but wonderfully whimsical interior design, tinted floor-to-ceiling windows and heated terrace for alfresco socialising.
Chef Mitshel Ibrahim (ex-Clove Club) conjures up some rare inventions, taking his cue from the traditions of regional Italian small-plates grazing, but adding flavours that are all his own – how about Carlingford oysters topped with startling cherry mustard? As for his light and crispy crostino topped with the most translucent home-cured pancetta, it ranks as ’one of the singularly most delicious mouthfuls I have ever tasted,’ drooled an inspector.
Other prize nibbles might range from a ‘cauliflower mushroom’ (sparassis) with Calabrian chilli and egg yolk to cured mackerel tartare with fennel and blood orange, although you must leave room for some silky hand-rolled pasta. Tagliatelle with well-judged anchovy butter and a generous amount of shaved truffle is a ‘triumph of less is more’, while crab tortelloni with crab ragù and hen of the woods brings delicacy as well as flavour to the table.
The menu also includes a couple of heftier ‘secondi’ too (a show-stopping dish of melting sweetbreads in perfectly balanced pea and mint velouté, say), while classic ‘dolci’ could herald panna cotta with poached pears or chestnut and roasted quince semifreddo. Since ‘ombra’ is Venetian dialect for a weeny glass of wine, it’s no surprise that drinkers have a ‘really interesting’ choice of Italian low-intervention tipples to sample. There are cool spritzs and aperitifs too.
Bijou Fitzrovia grandee noted for its modern French-accented cuisine
*Alberto Cavaliere (ex-Marcus, Robuchon and Sabor) has taken over the kitchen, replacing Phil Kearsey.*
Phil Kearsey arrived from Corrigan's Mayfair early in 2024 to take over the kitchen but the unifying presence of owner D… Read more
*Alberto Cavaliere (ex-Marcus, Robuchon and Sabor) has taken over the kitchen, replacing Phil Kearsey.*
Phil Kearsey arrived from Corrigan's Mayfair early in 2024 to take over the kitchen but the unifying presence of owner David Moore is what keeps this bijou dining room – now in its third decade – purring along. Lushly decorated, with elegant, well-spaced tables, it is run by ‘extremely professional and interactive’ staff, a ‘knowledgeable and enthusiastic’ sommelier, and pleases everyone for its essential sense of hospitality.
The cooking takes its cue from what might be seen as the house style, a modernish amalgam of French and British, and reveals an intuitive understanding of flavours: note the very good canapés – especially a morsel of scallop-stuffed chicken wing, and a truffled egg (in its shell) with aged Parmesan. These provided a tantalising prelude to our prettily presented starter of glazed lamb's sweetbreads tangled with peas, mint, girolles, shiitake mushrooms, edible flowers and pea shoots.
Ingredients are impeccable across the board, from a perfectly timed fillet of John Dory accompanied by courgettes, datterini tomatoes, crayfish panisse and brown butter to a just-pink slice of dry-aged duck breast teamed with a barbecued peach, tiny young turnips, violet mustard and a glossy amaretto sauce, plus a duck liver brioche on the side.
To finish, a light-as-air strawberry soufflé with olive-oil shortbread and vanilla ice cream was a textbook example of the genre. A patrician list of truly wonderful wines is handled with great insight by the sommelier, whether you are drinking by the flight, glass or bottle.
For more than a decade, Plateau has been the place in Brighton for natural wines and inventive cocktails. While that still holds true, it’s now firmly established as one of the best places for creative small plates too. Its … Read more
For more than a decade, Plateau has been the place in Brighton for natural wines and inventive cocktails. While that still holds true, it’s now firmly established as one of the best places for creative small plates too. Its early reliance on sharing platters of cheese and charcuterie as a sop to all that alcohol is a thing of the past; now, there’s a short, regularly changing menu bursting with deliciousness. Whipped cod’s roe (taramasalata to older readers) paired with the verdant, herbal spicy notes of zhoug is an inspired combination, and we’d return just to eat another bowl of the wonderfully comforting baked mushroom rice topped with a hillock of salted ricotta and breadcrumbs. Elsewhere, a pork and duck-liver terrine featuring perfectly tender, full-flavoured meat and some piccalilli (crisp vegetables and a pleasing mustardy punch) proved that the kitchen can be equally adept with the classics. It might sound over the top to describe a simply dressed green salad with pumpkin seeds as ‘thrilling’, but the rustic assembly of robust, bitter and crunchy English and Japanese leaves from NamaYasai Farm in nearby Cooksbridge was exactly that. The intimate dining room, with its stained glass, bare brick walls, wood floors and eye-catching floral displays is a relaxed, casual space that attracts a slightly more mature crowd (during our visit, at least). Tables, big enough to fit the small plates, are closely set but the jazz and funk soundtrack means your conversation won’t be overheard by your neighbours. If you’re not a natural wine expert, it’s worth asking for advice, as not everything on the list is designed to be a crowd-pleaser – although we enjoyed a reasonably priced and well-made organic Grenache Blanc from Potron Minet in the Languedoc.
Next door to the Quality Chop House, Quality Wines is a purveyor of good drinking, with a wine bar/restaurant added to its offer five days a week (Tue-Sat, lunch and dinner). Bentwood chairs, candles in wine bottles, and a central… Read more
Next door to the Quality Chop House, Quality Wines is a purveyor of good drinking, with a wine bar/restaurant added to its offer five days a week (Tue-Sat, lunch and dinner). Bentwood chairs, candles in wine bottles, and a central marble table do not disguise the fact that one is eating in an emporium – but that’s no criticism (unless the single basic loo bothers you). The atmosphere is convivial and the seasoned waiters greet many of the customers like old friends. Nick Bramham cooks with confidence. One has to applaud the sheer excess of a glossy bun rammed with fried octopus, pommes allumettes and more aïoli (whatever a cardiologist might have to say), while boiled Swiss chard with Cretan sheep's cheese and pine nuts is impressively restrained. Risotto primavera with asparagus, peas and courgettes, plus some oil and a few twists of pepper is Italian for comme il faut. For dessert, don’t miss the stunning pig-fat cannolo. The blackboard menu changes weekly but there’ll always be gildas, charcuterie and focaccia to nibble on while mulling the wine list. Selections by the glass change daily and bottles from the shelves can be purchased to drink in (expect to pay corkage). To give some idea of the range: a random sample might include Czech Riesling, a classic Loire Chenin, and a Sussex Pinot.
Stylish wine bar, bottle shop and small-plates eatery
On the portico of this elegant Georgian tenement, in handsome serif script, is the single word Spry giving no hint of what’s going on inside, but step through the pillared entrance and you are in what is arguably Edinburgh's… Read more
On the portico of this elegant Georgian tenement, in handsome serif script, is the single word Spry giving no hint of what’s going on inside, but step through the pillared entrance and you are in what is arguably Edinburgh's most stylish wine bar and bottle shop. To the right, a wall of organic and natural wines; in the centre, a row of stools spaced around an oak-topped, island bar that doubles as the kitchen. The furnishings are sparse – a sofa, a few tables and some handsome chairs.
Matt Jackson and partner Marzena Brodziak are the young couple behind this venture, which opened in 2019 with the aim of stocking wines free of additives and preservatives – a comprehensive range spanning the globe, but predominantly from small producers. Wines are offered by the glass; bottles come with a modest corkage charge. At lunch, we are recommended to try a fresh Kamptal Kolleltiv Grüner Veltliner and an equally sprightly Laurent Saillard Sauvignon-Ugni, Sauvignon Blanc.
Labneh with fresh and pickled cucumber is the opener from a selection of hot and cold small plates that changes daily. This might be followed by an intelligent partnership of cured mackerel and ripe cherries finished with buttermilk. From the hot dishes, we enjoyed aubergine with fava beans and gremolata, as well as a pollock paratha with saffron and yoghurt. A cheese course features Ragstone, Cora Linn or Stilton, each individually paired with crackers, preserves, chutney or pain perdu. Dessert is a cardamom panna cotta with cherries poached in red wine.
Quality sourdough bread and cultured butter (with offers of a top-up) plus a dish of Mignonette peppered almonds completes the line-up for a charming lunch. If you fancy something more substantial, they also offer a five-course set menu for £60 – although you will need to add £50 for wine pairings.
Almost two decades old, this offshoot of the original St John (housed in a former bank opposite Old Spitalfields Market) still retains something of that functional look – although the interior (close-packed wooden tables, wh… Read more
Almost two decades old, this offshoot of the original St John (housed in a former bank opposite Old Spitalfields Market) still retains something of that functional look – although the interior (close-packed wooden tables, whitewashed walls) now comes with bottles of wine, loaves of bread and blackboards by way of decoration. It’s the clatter and chatter of diners that lends the room its warm ambience. Menus, updated daily, speak to Britain’s historic foodways but feel fresh and modern. What you read is what you get: ‘Eccles cake and Lancashire cheese’; ‘smoked haddock, saffron and mash’; ‘boiled ham, carrots, and parsley sauce’; even ‘mushy courgettes’. It adheres to the nose-to-tail gospel of St John’s Fergus Henderson, so also expect heart, liver, kidneys and tails, alongside seasonal salads (cauliflower, leek and chickpeas) and vegetable dishes such as bobby beans with roast shallots and mustard. It’s rather fun to become reacquainted with specialities last seen in the Winnie the Pooh cookbook: jelly, prunes, sprats and anchovy toast, for example. Bread and wine, as the name suggests, are a focus. You can buy both to go, or you can sit down with a bottle from the all-French list which includes St John’s own-label Crémant de Limoux, Mâcon-Villages and claret.
* The restaurant will be closing for good after Sunday lunch on 18 May 2025.*
Compact. Economical. Quirky. This former two-roomed tea shop may feel homely with its vintage crockery and handful of tables, but it suits the unfussy … Read more
* The restaurant will be closing for good after Sunday lunch on 18 May 2025.*
Compact. Economical. Quirky. This former two-roomed tea shop may feel homely with its vintage crockery and handful of tables, but it suits the unfussy food on offer here. Everything coming out of Dave Hart's kitchen is a joy, the approach distinguished by reassuringly skilful cooking and a crisp, clear view of what it wants to be. The scene is set by a short, ‘fabulously thought-out’ blackboard menu listing French-inspired dishes built around local and seasonal produce. There are no pretensions or unnecessary garnishes – flavours are direct and enjoyable, whether classic rose veal kidneys with grain mustard on toast, a risotto primavera or guinea fowl with French-style peas and bacon. As one regular admitted: ‘I always get a naughty urge to lick every plate clean because I can’t bear the idea of a single flavour wasted.’ Start, perhaps with a dish of green beans, peach and jamón, strewn with hazelnuts, then move on to a perfectly timed wild sea bass fillet with tomato butter sauce, courgettes and tapenade. As for dessert, ‘out of this world’ crème brûlée is as good as it gets, and the chocolate mousse with griottine cherries and cream will guarantee a happy ending. Many reporters have praised Polly Pleasence, the charismatic co-owner who runs front of house, and there is plenty of love for the impressive wine list which has been meticulously selected with an eye on the quality-price ratio. A decent selection is offered by the glass, and suggested wine pairings are posted on the blackboard. All in all, just the kind of local 'worth moving to Folkestone for.’
Convivial brasserie attached to a top-tier Kentish winery
In the heart of the glorious Kent countryside, England's leading wine producer offers a full-dress winery experience from vineyard walks to tastings. The essence of the Chapel Down estate, however, has always been its restaurant. … Read more
In the heart of the glorious Kent countryside, England's leading wine producer offers a full-dress winery experience from vineyard walks to tastings. The essence of the Chapel Down estate, however, has always been its restaurant. Found on the upper floor of the wine shop and tasting room, the Swan has long been a local favourite for a countryside jaunt. Hospitality is a big plus, as is the convivial brasserie vibe and the catch-all Med-inspired menu that runs with the seasons.
Our suitably summery lunch kicked off with tiger prawns on chorizo toast (chilli adding just a hint of heat) and a serving of East Sussex mackerel fillet, cut into chunks and presented atop blobs of ajo blanco with macadamia nuts and dabs of parsley oil. Mains ranged from crisp-skinned chalk stream trout in a puddle of sauce américaine to slices of Romney Marsh lamb rump (cooked pink) with vibrantly green accompaniments of mint and anchovy dressing, courgette and basil. Both dishes were pulled together by a side of pink fir potatoes made absolutely delicious with lightly curried mayonnaise, diced apricot and a liberal sprinkling of chives.
Presentation throughout was a highlight, including the enticing finale: pecan praline parfait with an intense raspberry sorbet, feuilletine and verjus. Estate wines, either by the glass (from £7) or bottle (from £24) are the obvious choice, especially as each dish on the menu has a recommended pairing.
Good wine and food in a verdant patch of Sussex countryside
Primarily a vineyard producing natural and biodynamic wines, Tillingham is recommended for those who are interested to see what's going on at the cutting edge of UK viticulture while enjoying something pleasant to eat. The locatio… Read more
Primarily a vineyard producing natural and biodynamic wines, Tillingham is recommended for those who are interested to see what's going on at the cutting edge of UK viticulture while enjoying something pleasant to eat. The location is seriously remote (you really have to trust your SatNav as signage is minimal), while the set-up itself is rustic and vaguely ramshackle – albeit comfortable and interesting in a 'restaurant meets working vineyard' sort of way.
The spacious, no-frills first-floor restaurant really lends itself to daytime and summer evening meals, as the views from the picture windows overlooking the vineyard are unrivalled. A 'local and seasonal' ethos comes into its own here, and our good-value, three-course lunch was shot through with fresh flavours. To start, a delicate sliced scallop, served ceviche-style with orange and shaved fennel chimed perfectly with a glorious spring day, while sole meunière came with a huge bowl of tasty crushed pink fir potatoes. As a finale, a truly wobbly panna cotta with rhubarb and eau de vie was spot-on. Staff kindle a warm, relaxed buzz and they're keen to show that nothing is too much trouble.
It’s wise to book (especially for fixed-price, five-course dinners), but if you are struck by a spontaneous urge on a lovely sunny day and can’t get a table, the winery's open-sided Dutch barn, bar and terrace (from May to September) serve wood-fired sourdough pizzas, snacks and salads for walk-ins. Drink estate wines by the glass or bottle; otherwise, choose from a list of modern European wines.
Elegant Mediterranean-style cooking in an oasis of calm
Tucked into one side of the landmark brutalist building that is 180 Strand, Toklas is easy to miss. Just remember it has its own entrance on Surrey Street, opposite the old Strand tube station – if you find yourself outside … Read more
Tucked into one side of the landmark brutalist building that is 180 Strand, Toklas is easy to miss. Just remember it has its own entrance on Surrey Street, opposite the old Strand tube station – if you find yourself outside Toklas Café & Bakery, you’ve gone too far. Set one level above the street, it’s a genuine find – an oasis of calm, especially on a warm summer’s day when a table on the wide, plant-filled terrace is highly prized. The restrained modern interior goes bare on napery and big on concrete, but natural light floods in through huge windows and striking artworks add colour.
The restaurant draws inspiration – and its name – from the avant-garde American food writer Alice B Toklas, but what distinguishes it is a commitment to concise, seasonal and elegant Mediterranean-style cooking. Indeed, the kitchen is noted for its simple, calendar-tuned line-up of dishes based on the freshest of ingredients with classic accompaniments. Those pristine raw materials are handled with a delicate touch, as in a starter of wild sea bass crudo with sweet 'honeycomb' tomatoes offset by dots of salty bottarga, plus a colourfully tangled assembly of black figs, oakleaf lettuce, crunchy hazelnuts, pecorino shavings and honey. Rabbit saltimbocca with a pile of braised chard and a chunk of fresh Amalfi lemon is completely delicious in its simplicity, while homemade pasta is the business: a plate of tagliatelle with Scottish girolles, garlic and parsley showed up well during our lunchtime visit.
And there’s concord right to the final act: our dessert of gorgeous, perfectly roasted amaretto peaches needed nothing more than a dollop of mascarpone. The innovative wine list is dominated by bottles from the Mediterranean basin. Although there are comparatively few options under £40, drinkers have access to a generous clutch of recommendations by the glass and carafe. Excellent cocktails, too.
In the gentrified hinterland to the south of London Bridge, Trivet has the capacious, calming feel of somewhere on the American West Coast. A small outdoor terrace (with its own summertime menu), a glamorous bar and well-spaced ta… Read more
In the gentrified hinterland to the south of London Bridge, Trivet has the capacious, calming feel of somewhere on the American West Coast. A small outdoor terrace (with its own summertime menu), a glamorous bar and well-spaced tables set the scene for a smooth operation centred on an open kitchen, where Jonny Lake – formerly executive chef at the Fat Duck – is an authoritative gentle giant armed with tweezers. Staff are responsive to queries, the sommelier particularly good with recommendations, and the whole experience is restorative (assuming tootly-flutey jazz doesn't spoil your digestion). Nibble on olives, spiced cashews, or long broad vegetable crackers to get started. The food is all about sharply delineated flavours, with bite from pickled ingredients, salty savour from the likes of kombu and dashi, and combinations that spark the imagination. A braised spiky artichoke dressed in seaweed stock with cauliflower mushroom has plenty of piscine intensity, though it is actually a vegan dish, while dashi stock poured at the table turns a heap of saladings with kombu and gorse flowers into a sharp-dressed escort for panko-crumbed veal sweetbread. At main, a spin on duck with orange is composed of livid-pink fatless breast crusted in puffed rice and cracked peppercorns, with Tarocco blood-orange, orange-laced carrot purée, orange and endive salad, and bigarade sauce. An essentially fairly mainstream dish of turbot poached in citrus with herbed Chardonnay butter sauce was less than successfully partnered with chunks of confit Delica pumpkin that would have done better with the duck. A Turkish note is sounded in a small steamed yoghurt sponge coated in sesame seeds for dessert that comes with vanilla cream rippled with black olive caramel, or there may be a great wedge of griottine and almond tart with fantastic pastry, only let down by very pallidly flavoured pistachio ice cream. The wines are an adventurous modern collection, with stars from Turkey and Georgia alongside the skin content and 'funky' offerings. Seek the readily forthcoming advice. In a recent development, the owners have launched Labombe, a wine bar open every Monday evening in the restaurant's bar space. Alongside the rich depths of Trivet's full cellar, punters can look forward to a special by-the-glass selection from master sommelier Isa Bal, plus a blackboard menu of snacks and small plates.
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