Tillingham
Peasmarsh, East Sussex
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*Brendan Eades (formerly head chef at Douglas McMaster's Silo in Hackney) is now in charge of Tillingham's restaurant kitchen. Watch for a new review coming soon.*
Tillingham is primarily a vineyard, not far from Rye, producing natural and biodynamic wines. It's the kind of place that vinifies its white wine in ovoid earthenware vessels in the Georgian fashion, and sitting on the terrace on a sunny lunchtime, watching muddy-booted farmers traipsing industriously to and fro, it feels right – if, engagingly, slightly surreal. The dining room is perched above a converted barn shop, the better to enjoy the viticultural scene, and the output, while still at the developmental stage on a no-choice menu at inspection, is not without its highlights. Lardo draped over roasted oyster mushrooms with a tranche of turbot might kick things off, to be followed by three slices of pink-cooked hogget neck, served only with podded broad beans, mint leaves and a dollop of fromage frais. To finish, perhaps a slice of almond cake with poached strawberries and superb cultured cream. As well as the orange wine, there are Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir varietals to try, plus a traditional-method sparkler.
