Quality Wines
Clerkenwell, London
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Next door to the Quality Chop House, Quality Wines operates as a wine shop seven days a week, a wine bar four evenings a week (Wed-Sat). Bentwood chairs, candles in wine bottles, and a central marble table do not disguise the fact that one is eating in a wine shop – but that’s no criticism (unless the single basic loo bothers you). The atmosphere is convivial and the seasoned waiters greet many of the customers like old friends. Nick Bramham cooks with confidence. One has to applaud the sheer excess of a glossy bun rammed with fried octopus, pommes allumettes and more aïoli is decent (whatever a cardiologist might have to say), while boiled Swiss chard with Cretan sheep's cheese and pine nuts is impressively restrained. Risotto primavera with asparagus, peas and courgettes, plus some oil and a few twists of pepper is Italian for comme il faut. For dessert, don’t miss the stunning pig-fat cannolo. The blackboard menu changes weekly but there’ll always be gildas, charcuterie and focaccia to nibble on while mulling the wine list. Selections by the glass change daily and bottles from the shelves incur just £15 corkage. To give some idea of the range: a random sample might include Czech Riesling, a classic Loire Chenin, and a Sussex Pinot.
