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Levan

London, Peckham - Modern European - Restaurant - ££

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

Given that this animated neighbourhood eatery and bar is named after legendary New York DJ Larry Levan, it’s no surprise that disco music provides the soundtrack and that the midnight-blue walls are lined with vinyl records – as well as rows of empty wine bottles. The floral, mineral notes of a Bourgogne Aligoté are a perfect fit for Levan’s ‘moreish’ Comté fries, stacked Jenga-style and slathered in saffron aïoli, while burrata is given a new lease of life in company with richly caramelised BBQ peach and crunchy toasted walnuts. To follow, cured monkfish (‘meltingly soft and opaque’) is tellingly matched with kumquat and fermented chilli, while a thick, juicy pork chop arrives with pickled gooseberries to cut through the succulent fat and crispy greens for added texture – thoughtful ideas and clever combos executed with a fair degree of precision. Desserts are limited but well-crafted (almond cake with poached peaches ...

Given that this animated neighbourhood eatery and bar is named after legendary New York DJ Larry Levan, it’s no surprise that disco music provides the soundtrack and that the midnight-blue walls are lined with vinyl records – as well as rows of empty wine bottles. The floral, mineral notes of a Bourgogne Aligoté are a perfect fit for Levan’s ‘moreish’ Comté fries, stacked Jenga-style and slathered in saffron aïoli, while burrata is given a new lease of life in company with richly caramelised BBQ peach and crunchy toasted walnuts. To follow, cured monkfish (‘meltingly soft and opaque’) is tellingly matched with kumquat and fermented chilli, while a thick, juicy pork chop arrives with pickled gooseberries to cut through the succulent fat and crispy greens for added texture – thoughtful ideas and clever combos executed with a fair degree of precision. Desserts are limited but well-crafted (almond cake with poached peaches and lemon-thyme ice cream, for example); otherwise, opt for some carefully sourced artisanal cheese. Service is ‘gentle and full of warmth’. Levan also boasts one of the most diverse lists of low-intervention, natural wines in the capital; Europe dominates, with special attention paid to bottles from the Jura region of France.

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VENUE DETAILS

12-16 Blenheim Grove
Peckham
SE15 4QLGB

020 7732 2256

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OTHER INFORMATION

Counter seating, Wheelchair access, Family friendly, Dog friendly, Credit card required

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