Levan
Peckham, London
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* Philip Limpl (a veteran of many global pop-ups and formerly at Kona in Copenhagen) has been appointed as Levan's head chef. Look out for a new review coming soon.*
From the people behind Salon on Brixton Market (now sadly deceased), this animated neighbourhood eatery has become a staple of the Peckham food scene since opening in 2018. Given that the venue is named after legendary New York DJ Larry Levan, it’s no surprise that disco music provides the soundtrack and that the midnight-blue walls are lined with vinyl records – as well as rows of empty wine bottles. The floral, mineral notes of a Bourgogne Aligoté are a perfect fit for Levan’s ‘moreish’ Comté fries, stacked Jenga-style and slathered in saffron aïoli, while burrata is given a new lease of life in company with richly caramelised BBQ peach and crunchy toasted walnuts. To follow, cured monkfish (‘meltingly soft and opaque’) is tellingly matched with kumquat and fermented chilli, while a thick, juicy pork chop arrives with pickled gooseberries to cut through the succulent fat and crispy greens for added texture – thoughtful ideas and clever combos executed with a fair degree of precision. Desserts are limited but well-crafted (almond cake with poached peaches and lemon-thyme ice cream, for example); otherwise, opt for some carefully sourced artisanal cheese. Service is ‘gentle and full of warmth’. Levan also boasts one of the most diverse lists of low-intervention, natural wines in the capital; Europe dominates, with special attention paid to bottles from the Jura region of France.
