Flawd
Manchester, Greater Manchester
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Swans in the middle of Manchester! Who would have thought? But Flawd is on the Islington Marina, a newly minted network of canals and water basins now home to barges and wildfowl, new apartments, green spaces and walkways. The feel is Dutch or Scandinavian, enhanced by a fine-weather terrace. It’s a suitable setting for a contemporary bottle shop, wine bar and sharing-plate eatery of restricted size with a buzzy atmosphere, enthusiastic staff and a funky playlist. As soon as you walk in, you know it’s a place in which to have fun. Floor-to-ceiling windows help open up a diminutive, functional space just large enough to house a counter, several wine racks, a few tables and backless stools (not very bottom-friendly!). The blackboard menu changes regularly and features local and regional ingredients such as Lancaster smoked mackerel, Garstang Blue cheese and outstanding sourdough bread from neighbouring bakery Pollen, while much of the fresh produce is sourced from Cinderwood Market Garden in Cheshire. Charcuterie is from Curing Rebels in Brighton, however, although who cares about regional pedantry when it’s this good? The place has pedigree: the team includes alumni from Noma and Stockport’s Where The Light Gets In – and it shows. Flair and imagination define the largely plant-focused cooking, which goes big on flavour. Unctuous whipped split-pea dip was saved from blandness by the acidity of diced gherkin, while celeriac and white kimchi soup was smooth and rich, the ivory colour relieved by a scattering of nasturtiums. Elsewhere, a joyful salad of bitter leaves was lifted by an inspired dressing based on cod's roe, and savoury autumn brassicas were heaped with mushrooms like a pile of fallen leaves. Terrific. The word Flawd refers to an 18th-century term meaning ‘drunk’, which is fitting as they major on natural and low-intervention wines from small producers. It’s also a trick to disabuse drinkers of the perception that such wines are ‘flawed’. With a range of styles by the glass, it’s easy to delve into this brave new ‘natty’ wine world – and if that lacks appeal, there’s also an excellent choice of craft beer. Note: there are no reservations and no desserts. A flaw, perhaps, but not a fatal one.
