Burnt Orange
Brighton, East Sussex
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The waiting staff would doubtless be rich if they had a pound for every customer who joked on seeing the menu: 'I'll have one of everything.' With it's compelling combinations and alluring flavours, choosing is a challenging task; what to leave out? The sharing plate ethos helps maximise options, with Middle Eastern and European ideas monopolising the output from the kitchen with its centrepiece wood-fired oven. From the man behind the Coal Shed and the Salt Room, Burnt Orange has become the city's hot spot since opening in 2021 on Middle Street beside one of the narrow 'twitten' passageways. There is a small patio with an awning if you feel the need but indoors is where the joyous energy of the place is best appreciated. The glistening flatbreads come straight out the flames and onto your table and are essential for soaking up the flavours (and adding carbs if you're hungry). From the flames comes what must surely be the signature dish: mangalitza pork belly with a spiced coffee rub and some pickled fennel, while the ubiquitous (in hipster circles) charred hispi cabbage is spiced up with harissa. Among the starter plates, a splendid slab of Sussex halloumi is drizzled with spiced fig honey (the delivery of courses occurs at a sensible pace), and seafood figures in spiced calamari with a preserved lemon aïoli, or sea bream with basil yoghurt and mango dressing. Just a couple of dessert options might include Arabic coffee torte. Cocktails are no afterthought here: a dozen zingers including the Burnt Orange Martini made with Salcombe gin and Lillet Blanc vermouth from Bordeaux. The wine list opens at £22.
