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Pied à Terre

London, Fitzrovia - Modern French - Restaurant - ££££

Bijou Fitzrovia grandee noted for its modern French-accented cuisine

Overall Rating: Very Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Very Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Very Good

Chef Phil Kearsey arrived from Corrigan's Mayfair early in 2024 to head up the kitchen at this famed Fitzrovia stalwart, but the unifying presence of owner David Moore is what keeps the lushly decorated, bijou dining room – now in its third decade – purring along. Inside, tables are elegantly laid and surprisingly well-spaced, while ‘extremely professional and interactive’ staff – as well as a ‘knowledgeable and enthusiastic’ sommelier – ensure that everyone relishes the restaurant's overriding sense of hospitality. The cooking takes its cue from what might be seen as the ingrained house style, a modernish amalgam of French and British that reveals an intuitive understanding of flavours: note the very good canapés – especially a morsel of scallop-stuffed chicken wing, and a truffled egg (in its shell) with aged Parmesan. These provided a tantalising prelude to our prettily presented starter of glazed lamb's sweetbreads tangl...

Chef Phil Kearsey arrived from Corrigan's Mayfair early in 2024 to head up the kitchen at this famed Fitzrovia stalwart, but the unifying presence of owner David Moore is what keeps the lushly decorated, bijou dining room – now in its third decade – purring along. Inside, tables are elegantly laid and surprisingly well-spaced, while ‘extremely professional and interactive’ staff – as well as a ‘knowledgeable and enthusiastic’ sommelier – ensure that everyone relishes the restaurant's overriding sense of hospitality.

The cooking takes its cue from what might be seen as the ingrained house style, a modernish amalgam of French and British that reveals an intuitive understanding of flavours: note the very good canapés – especially a morsel of scallop-stuffed chicken wing, and a truffled egg (in its shell) with aged Parmesan. These provided a tantalising prelude to our prettily presented starter of glazed lamb's sweetbreads tangled with peas, mint, girolles, shiitake mushrooms, edible flowers and pea shoots.

Ingredients are impeccable across the board, from a perfectly timed fillet of John Dory accompanied by courgettes, datterini tomatoes, crayfish panisse and brown butter to a just-pink slice of dry-aged duck breast teamed with a barbecued peach, tiny young turnips, violet mustard and a glossy amaretto sauce, plus a duck liver brioche on the side.

To finish, a light-as-air strawberry soufflé with olive-oil shortbread and vanilla ice cream was a textbook example of the genre. A patrician list of truly wonderful wines is handled with great insight by the sommelier, whether you are drinking by the flight, glass or bottle.

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VENUE DETAILS

34 Charlotte Street
Fitzrovia
W1T 2NHGB

020 7636 1178

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OTHER INFORMATION

Private dining room, No background music, Family friendly, Dog friendly, Deposit required

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