Best pub restaurants in London Published 05 September 2024
In London, the line between a good meal and a great pub experience is deliciously blurred; why shouldn't a comfortable pub setting and top-notch food go hand in hand? If you enjoy the laid-back vibe of a pub but don't want to compromise on food quality, these pubs stand out for their great food and prove that pub dining can be about more than just the basics, offering dishes that are as thoughtfully prepared as any you'd find in the city's restaurants.
Brook House may be noisy and lively, but it has kept the warm, welcoming ethos and atmosphere of a pub. It's hugely popular with locals (often with kids and dogs in tow), while close-packed tables mean that you can earwig oth… Read more
Brook House may be noisy and lively, but it has kept the warm, welcoming ethos and atmosphere of a pub. It's hugely popular with locals (often with kids and dogs in tow), while close-packed tables mean that you can earwig other diners' conversations – although the noise levels and music aren't to everyone's taste. The menu is full of promise and the kitchen is able to do it justice, while lovely staff are on hand to guide everyone through the oft-changing repertoire (organised by size rather than course). Oysters are always popular, as is steak tartare, although the chef really gets into his stride when it comes to more elaborate ideas: huge grilled red prawns come with kumquat, chilli and an accompanying dollop of miso mayonnaise, while a chargrilled pork chop (with a crisp, melting crust) is made more luxurious by the addition of morels, Madeira and wild garlic. Sides, especially sprouting broccoli with labneh and salsa verde, are excellent. To conclude, millionaire's tart (with crème fraîche from Neal's Yard) is the best-selling dessert, and there are cheeses from La Fromagerie. The wide-ranging wine list has a decent smattering of magnums for special occasions or long, languorous Sunday lunches, as well as good choice of house pours; cocktails are popular too.
Describing their venue as a neighbourhood restaurant inside a 19th-century pub, the good folk at The Camberwell Arms have an appealing proposition on a busy road that slices through SE5. 'Compelling, simple, seasonal' food is the … Read more
Describing their venue as a neighbourhood restaurant inside a 19th-century pub, the good folk at The Camberwell Arms have an appealing proposition on a busy road that slices through SE5. 'Compelling, simple, seasonal' food is the real deal, served up in relaxed, pared-back spaces where the bones of the old pub remain in its stripped floors, fireplaces and high Victorian ceilings. There's a hatch window out front so drinks can pass to thirsty locals on the pavement, and a private dining room with its own bar at the other end of the spectrum. The gauntlet is thrown down with 'Scotch bonnet pork fat on toast' – a dish of fire and fat, and not for the faint-hearted. Share a few small plates such as semolina gnocchi in a 'bright, fresh' San Marzano tomato sauce or charred onions with artichoke pesto and pistachios; otherwise, stick to the trad two- or three-course format. A bigger helping of grilled fish (wild bream or plaice, maybe) arrives with chips and aïoli, while thinly sliced porchetta is dressed with white peaches and rosemary. Two like-minded people can go for sharers such as half a spit-roast chicken (with blistered hispi cabbage and crème fraîche enriched with chicken fat) or aged Hereford rump steak with anchovy dripping. To finish, a 'beautiful' apricot and chocolate galette with crème fraîche and sour-cherry molasses sent one reader away very happy. Sunday lunches catch the eye with more of those sharers as well as roast potatoes cooked with sage and lemon. The drinking options include cocktails and well-chosen wines (from £26.50).
Brett Graham (The Ledbury) and Mike Robinson (game specialist) opened the Harwood Arms on a quiet residential street near Fulham Broadway in 2009, and the kitchen shows a long-running commitment to prime British produce, deliverin… Read more
Brett Graham (The Ledbury) and Mike Robinson (game specialist) opened the Harwood Arms on a quiet residential street near Fulham Broadway in 2009, and the kitchen shows a long-running commitment to prime British produce, delivering a concise seasonal menu of four choices at each course – an extremely likeable line-up of reinvented classics we would be happy to eat on a regular basis. It seemed only fitting to kick off with the dish most associated with this pub – a punchy, golden-brown venison Scotch egg accompanied by Oxford sauce, much copied but rarely bettered. This was followed by a superb warm pumpkin tart topped with Quicke’s goat’s cheese, which worked well with a mushroom purée. Complete technique was on show in a dish of excellent Berkshire fallow deer served with a faggot, red leaves and cranberries, as well as in Cornish monkfish (on the bone) topped with brown shrimps and accompanied by roasted cauliflower, tenderstem broccoli and brown crab butter. The accompanying deep-fried new potatoes with garlic butter had us nodding with pleasure. Desserts are convincingly puddingy and feel absolutely right for the setting – from a perfect custard flan with caramel and spiced plum ice cream to a pineapple upside-down cake with malted treacle and crème-fraîche ice cream. The dining area is a low-key space decked out with dark green wood panelling, a proudly displayed stag's head and generously spaced tables (with cutlery kept in a brown-leather gamekeeper's holster). The vibe is relaxed and service is friendly without being overly chatty. To drink, there is quality across the price-spectrum, from a selection of 21 wines by the glass (from £7) to high-calibre representation from Burgundy (including top producer, Domaine Ramonet) as well as Bordeaux's Left Bank.
In the two decades since the Anchor & Hope poured its first pint, reassuringly little has changed at this now-classic London dining pub. Behold the oxblood walls, the weathered wooden tables, and the crowds of theatregoers pou… Read more
In the two decades since the Anchor & Hope poured its first pint, reassuringly little has changed at this now-classic London dining pub. Behold the oxblood walls, the weathered wooden tables, and the crowds of theatregoers pouring in before and after shows at the Young and Old Vic. Everywhere else has changed, which makes the pub’s skilled but unpretentious cooking look even better value than ever. The daily changing menu moves from small to large, increasing in price incrementally but not crossing the £30 main course rubicon (on our visit). It feels deliberate; a decision not to price people out. Indeed, there are many good dishes for a third of the top mark, such as maccu (a Sicilian fava bean soup with pecorino). Its polenta-esque beige hues look plain to the point of St John parody but come with the hidden surprise of crunchy croûtons – tasty and comforting. If you prefer more colour on your plate, make it Maldon smoked salmon with cucumber and horseradish, or taramasalata with Melba toast and Kalamata olives. Scottish mackerel is fresh in that day, and you can tell: the flesh coming away from the bone in soft, large flakes, it's a beautiful fish, handled with care, with little more than soy, ginger and garlic dressing for company. Founded by alumni of St John, that cradle of British nose-to-tail cookery, this pub takes a broader view – encompassing South Coast plaice with langoustine beurre blanc, duck confit with cumin-spiced lentils and labneh, lobster with chips and mayo, and desserts including lemon pot with cassis and shortbread. Be assured that the Anchor & Hope remains a pub. Know that you can always pop in for a pint of cask ale – although rustic French wines and sub-£10 cocktails are there, should you prefer.
Adam Symonds and Rob Tecwyn (former head chef at Dabbous) met while working at north London's Bull & Last, and The Baring is their personal take on a modern urban hostelry. Their aim to provide great food and drink in a no-fus… Read more
Adam Symonds and Rob Tecwyn (former head chef at Dabbous) met while working at north London's Bull & Last, and The Baring is their personal take on a modern urban hostelry. Their aim to provide great food and drink in a no-fuss, relaxed atmosphere sets the standard for what a neighbourhood dining pub can and should do, offering a simple yet elegant interior that matches the straight-to-the-point cooking perfectly. It’s effectively a very successful contemporary bistro with the option of eating at the bar or at well-spaced plain tables. The short-choice carte (plus a blackboard special) reveals a zealous enthusiasm for properly fresh ingredients, with a winter dinner delivering full-flavoured and appealing Rhug Estate venison with smoked beetroot and parsnip latke, as well as roasted guinea fowl breast and a sausage of the leg partnered by hispi cabbage, grains and a rich gravy. There’s been praise, too, for a chalkboard lunch special of beef sirloin focaccia with salsa rossa, while everyone agrees that the undisputed showstopper is the (never-off-the-menu, we hope) quail shish, which comes with a dollop of garlicky yoghurt and a pool of pul biber (aleppo) chilli oil. To finish, there could be buttermilk pudding with rhubarb and oats, a steamed plum sponge with cold custard or Beaufort cheese and chutney. Service comes with a warm, light, friendly touch and the food’s full-frontal vigour is matched by a gutsy, mainly European wine list.
From the Cubitt House group, this transformed Mayfair pub comes across as a genuine local, refreshingly free of affectation and resolutely faithful to its pub roots. The impressive ground-floor bar has held on to its darkly varnis… Read more
From the Cubitt House group, this transformed Mayfair pub comes across as a genuine local, refreshingly free of affectation and resolutely faithful to its pub roots. The impressive ground-floor bar has held on to its darkly varnished wood and etched glass, packing in drinkers for pints of proper beer and a bar menu offering the likes of hot meat buns or sausage rolls with homemade brown sauce. However, the real action takes place upstairs in an intimate, richly decorated dining room. Here chef director Ben Tish and head chef Chris Fordham-Smith's influences are to be seen, their talents and food-loving instincts delivering high-impact, no-nonsense British cooking. It’s a clear-sighted, thoughtful approach that pays dividends all round, from starters of steamed cockles (with parsley butter), a house terrine en croûte or brown crab rarebit to desserts such as baked Alaska (for two) and sticky toffee pudding with salted caramel sauce. In between, the kitchen applies a respectful approach to top-drawer ingredients: native-breed beef pie with mash and parsley sauce; an exemplary free-range roast chicken, served with sage and truffle butter; a daily roast of rare-breed meats (the real deal). There’s an inspired cheese selection too, and wine is taken seriously – expect a thoughtful selection that accommodates all depths of pocket.
Sited close to Hampstead Heath, this updated 19th-century coaching inn is much loved for its comfortable country pub atmosphere, contemporary British cooking and on-the-ball service. Major refurbishment has added several guest bed… Read more
Sited close to Hampstead Heath, this updated 19th-century coaching inn is much loved for its comfortable country pub atmosphere, contemporary British cooking and on-the-ball service. Major refurbishment has added several guest bedrooms but most of the traditional look and feel has been preserved – the trademark taxidermy bull heads are still mounted above the bar. A daily-changing menu is underpinned by seasonal produce – a first course of cauliflower cheese croquettes was the star performer during our lunchtime visit. Tender-cooked florets were coated in creamy cheese sauce, encased in light batter, fried to splinter-sharp crunchiness and served with tarragon mayonnaise. Our second starter was also a winner – smoked trout, flaked and folded with lemony cream cheese and fresh dill, worked a treat with pickled cucumber and the treacle-like sweetness of soda bread. Other summery highlights included a crisp-fried courgette flower, filled with goat’s cheese and surrounded by tahini and roast aubergine purée. Save space for pudding – we sunk a spoon into the roasted apricot fool, layered with lemon-curd parfait and apricot sorbet. Although most customers come here to eat, this is also a pub for tipplers who like to perch at the bar and perhaps snack on the kitchen’s legendary Scotch eggs. British craft beers are complemented by selected European and New World wines.
This King’s Road institution has new custodians in the shape of JKS Restaurants, the go-getting group behind such destination venues as Gymkhana, Lyle’s and Trishna. It turns out they can do pubs too. The Cadogan Arms … Read more
This King’s Road institution has new custodians in the shape of JKS Restaurants, the go-getting group behind such destination venues as Gymkhana, Lyle’s and Trishna. It turns out they can do pubs too. The Cadogan Arms looks ravishing after its refresh, with stained glass mirrors at the bar, an embossed ceiling, velvet upholstery and grand displays of dried flowers and peacock plumes. With culinary director James Knappett and exec chef Alex Harper (ex-Harwood Arms) overseeing proceedings, the kitchen delivers ‘pub grub’ of a piece – both prawn cocktail with iceberg lettuce and marie rose sauce, and an XL chicken Kyiv are unapologetically retro. At one meal, ‘humble ham and eggs’ turned out to be 'a fleshy piece of ham served on the bone' with fat chips and a sticky pineapple jam, while fried buttermilk chicken with hot sauce was simply ‘lip-smacking’. Or there could be roast turbot on the bone with brown shrimps, seasonal vegetables and chilled bagna cauda, while a nostalgic rhubarb trifle with a huge dollop of cream has been declared a ‘successful reboot’. One needn’t scale the three-figure reaches of the wine list to drink well. Leave the Latour for the well-heeled locals; for the rest of us, there are cask and keg beers, reasonable wines by the glass and fun ‘cocktail chasers’.
Classically pubby Stockwell boozer with a far-reaching, eclectic menu
Those familiar with the Canton Arms’ siblings (Stoke Newington's Clarence Tavern, Southwark’s Anchor & Hope, Oxford’s Magdalen Arms) will know what to expect. There’s a resolute commitment to classic pu… Read more
Those familiar with the Canton Arms’ siblings (Stoke Newington's Clarence Tavern, Southwark’s Anchor & Hope, Oxford’s Magdalen Arms) will know what to expect. There’s a resolute commitment to classic pubbiness here, so expect plenty of drinkers congregating at the front bar with pints of real ale, while the back area is reserved for diners. The culinary spectrum is as wide-ranging as you can get, with the single-sheet menu offering an ample dose of European and Mediterranean flavours, peppered with kimchi, katsu and the like.
The daily specials board, which majors on dishes to share, might feature home-cured charcuterie, a pie for two and seven-hour salt marsh lamb shoulder – built for five to share and a headliner on Sundays, along with rare roast Dexter beef (with roasties, green beans and watercress). On the plate, the pub’s homely aesthetic dovetails with astute technical precision and the season-led food is confidently handled, producing rustic hand-cut tagliatelle with heaps of butter, girolles and a fragrant whack of tarragon, as well as a hefty spinach and feta filo pie with ‘gorgeous lemony’ Greek potato salad.
Other noteworthy dishes on our visit ranged from Tamworth pork neck with a high-octane anchoïade to perfectly cooked Cornish skate with fresh slivers of tender Romana courgettes and a smooth, rich vermouth cream. To finish, the umami hit of almost-burnt sugar and crunchy nuts was the making of a generous scoop of hazelnut-brittle gelato. In short, everything is generously proportioned and speaks of a kitchen that knows its stuff. There’s democratic pricing too, which carries through to a drinks list offering plenty below the £40 mark.
Stripped back in terms of both decor and dining, this Stoke Newington sibling of the Canton Arms and The Anchor & Hope is the embodiment of everything you’d expect from a London dining pub. Straightforward, concise cooki… Read more
Stripped back in terms of both decor and dining, this Stoke Newington sibling of the Canton Arms and The Anchor & Hope is the embodiment of everything you’d expect from a London dining pub. Straightforward, concise cooking from Harry Kaufman’s kitchen puts quality ingredients at the heart of things and lets them sing for their supper. In a salad starter, rich, unctuous confit duck is paired with fresh leaves, crisp radish and buttery broad beans, while a plate of chicken livers on sourdough toast is a bear hug of a dish, with the huge earthiness of the offal and cooking liquor balanced by the spicy tang of wild garlic. To follow, more ramsons – this time as a light, bright, herbal sauce served over homemade cavatelli and dressed simply with sharp, salty pecorino. Elsewhere, braised rabbit is sweet, succulent and served on the bone, with crisp saffron potatoes soaking up the gamey broth beneath. Desserts are as classic as treacle tart and chocolate mousse. The tart is tar-sticky, loaded with dark sugar and a slight bitterness, while the silky sweetness of the mousse is tempered by the savoury crackle of crumbled peanut brittle, and a big, milky dob of crème fraîche. To drink, there are all the beery trappings you’d expect of a proper pub, and a wine selection you wouldn’t. A sprawling list leans heavily towards France and Italy and rarely leaves European soil, featuring a dozen or so options by the glass and a similar number of magnums, should a casual dinner need to turn into a grand occasion. An inviting, satisfying local, with a hearty menu to match.
As a sensitive and family-friendly re-imagining of an old pub, it seems that owner Christian Arden has got this place finely tuned to the local neighbourhood – with excellent service to boot. The spacious bar/dining roo… Read more
As a sensitive and family-friendly re-imagining of an old pub, it seems that owner Christian Arden has got this place finely tuned to the local neighbourhood – with excellent service to boot. The spacious bar/dining room is understated, filled with light from huge windows, backed up by a few pavement tables to the front and a large, walled sun-trap garden to the rear. It’s just the sort of place where folk feel comfortable dropping in for a pint, a cocktail or something from the decent selection of wines by the glass, before deciding to make an evening of it with dishes from the appealingly short menu. A springtime visit yielded satisfying pub staples ranging from reassuringly cheesy cauliflower croquettes to an old-fashioned chicken forrestière with hispi cabbage and new potatoes, alongside specialities with a Mediterranean slant. A bowl of pea soup with mint, lemon and 'nduja oil was a generous portion, as was sea bream (crispy on top, meltingly flaky underneath), served with cauliflower purée, pickled apples, kale and brown shrimps. To conclude, a classic tiramisu was everything it should be. The garden comes into its own in summer, when the pizza oven is turned on.
Nicholas Culpeper was a 17th-century botanist, physician and astrologer – and the Whitechapel pub that bears his name is equally adept at playing many roles. Starting from the top, there's a vegetable garden on the roof, wit… Read more
Nicholas Culpeper was a 17th-century botanist, physician and astrologer – and the Whitechapel pub that bears his name is equally adept at playing many roles. Starting from the top, there's a vegetable garden on the roof, with produce growing in the shadow of City spires and skyscrapers; the second floor offersa few sparsely stylish guest rooms, while the first floor houses the kitchen and an airy dining space. But the heart of the operation is the ground floor, where post-work drinkers and diners gravitate to a horseshoe bar, and where the aesthetics gracefully balance hipsterdom and Victorian heritage with giant windows, scuffed parquet floors and dangling light fittings. The small menu magpie-picks from contemporary European influences: starters might include the likes of lightly battered fritto misto with a generous dollop of preserved lemon aïoli or a warming Jerusalem artichoke orzotto with rosemary pesto and pickled onion. Mains are characterised by hearty and homespun choices – think rustic cassoulet swimming with confit duck leg, Toulouse sausage and pork belly (the star of our inspection meal) or a Mitteleuropean medley of spätzle with squash, chanterelles and chestnuts, speckled with crispy cavolo nero. Dense chocolate and hazelnut brownie is a fitting way to conclude; otherwise, the blackboard trumpets suppliers behind the exclusively francophone cheeseboard. Drinks cover all bases, from real ales and cocktails to Old World wines (including skin-contact varieties).
Since landing on Farringdon Road in 1991, the Eagle has staked its claim as one of the originators of the so-called ‘gastropub’ genre. This lively, ever-popular boozer has resisted all forms of gentrification over the … Read more
Since landing on Farringdon Road in 1991, the Eagle has staked its claim as one of the originators of the so-called ‘gastropub’ genre. This lively, ever-popular boozer has resisted all forms of gentrification over the years, and remains, most assuredly, a pub. Small tables and bar stools around the perimeter are defined as 'free seating', although you can book. Order at the bar, choosing beer from the row of taps (try a craft keg from the guys who opened the Hackney Brewery) and food from the day’s menu scrawled on the board over the stove.
Edward Mottershaw (only the pub’s third ever head chef) cooks gutsy, country food from across Europe, but mostly from Italy and the Iberian Peninsula. The ‘bife ana’ rump steak sandwich has been on the menu since day one and it still reigns supreme for many punters – although others prefer the heartier seasonally adapted dishes. On a typical day you might find hake steak with lentils and salsa cruda, roast pork belly with braised peas, celeriac and pickled cabbage or grilled aubergine with tzatziki, followed by the near-ubiquitous burnt Basque cheesecake.
Spain dominates the cracking list of quaffable and affordable wines, or you could plump for a well-mixed cocktail such as Dark & Stormy – or even the Eagle's famously thirst-quenching Rock Shandy. ‘No fuss, no frills and everything is done with a lot of love,’ concluded an inspector.
A central hub for political radicalism in the latter years of the 18th century, this gorgeous Grade II-listed Fitzrovia boozer has been revitalised as a hostelry for the ages by the JKS restaurant group. We recommend the ground-fl… Read more
A central hub for political radicalism in the latter years of the 18th century, this gorgeous Grade II-listed Fitzrovia boozer has been revitalised as a hostelry for the ages by the JKS restaurant group. We recommend the ground-floor bar for its alluring heritage vibe (all gilded mirrors, lush leather banquettes and dark wood panelling) and its menu of classic pub grub – think black pudding Scotch eggs with Oxford sauce, braised ox cheek with mash, beer-battered fish, rhubarb and custard trifle, banana split. Prodigious Sunday roasts also come highly recommended, as does the admirable drinks selection (terrific English sparkling wines, artisan beers, ‘very, very nice Guinness’, cheeky cocktails et al). Brilliant staff, too.
Chic neighbourhood hostelry with a punchy seasonal menu
A short walk from Holland Park and the Design Museum, the Holland is a proper neighbourhood pub that stands out from the area’s many chains with its laudable commitment to social responsibility and sustainability. The rustic… Read more
A short walk from Holland Park and the Design Museum, the Holland is a proper neighbourhood pub that stands out from the area’s many chains with its laudable commitment to social responsibility and sustainability. The rustic interior feels relaxed and inviting, while the chic lived-in look (think emerald tiled bar, woodwork painted in dark green, exposed brickwork, repurposed furniture and floorboards) is offset by a nostalgic 60s/70s soundtrack. A second dining room on the first floor is designed for larger groups.
Chef/owner Max de Nahlik heads the kitchen, his short, produce-driven menu showing respect for the seasons and leaning towards simplicity with the likes of asparagus risotto or rib of beef with red wine sauce. To start, rich white and brown crabmeat spread on toast delivers a spicy kick. After that, flavourful roast leg of lamb is complemented by a colourful mélange of datterini tomatoes, pesto and charred cime di rapa, Cornish new potatoes with green mojo, and a veal jus. Rounding things off, ripe Baron Bigod cheese is a great precursor to an apple and rhubarb crumble.
The set lunch is good value (especially for the W8 postcode) and the Sunday roast offer is ‘a thing of beauty’ with its ‘blushing’ beef rump, ‘crackling’ roasties and more besides. Service is enthusiastic and friendly. Craft beers, cocktails and around three dozen well-selected wines (including plenty by the glass) complete a terrific offer.
On a rainy Friday evening, this former Hackney Road boozer – identifying since its 2015 makeover as a ‘public house and dining rooms’ – glows with pubby welcome. Glimmering light spills out onto the street,… Read more
On a rainy Friday evening, this former Hackney Road boozer – identifying since its 2015 makeover as a ‘public house and dining rooms’ – glows with pubby welcome. Glimmering light spills out onto the street, and space at the mahogany bar and on the leather banquettes is in demand. It’s alive with end-of-the-week chatter. Pints are pulled, wine is poured, the bar is propped up. Upstairs, the dining room is more restrained, with little distracting from the business of dinner. Snacks go down well with a bright pét-nat from Portugal, chosen from a wine list that bristles with interest; a natural Catarratto from the coastal Barraco winery in Marsala, Sicily, is a notable pleasure later in the meal. To begin, a pillowy glazed barley bun promises a satisfying marriage of rich, slow-braised beef inside soft, warm bread, which is why it is billed as a house special – especially when scooped through horseradish cream with a forkful of pickled veg. Spenwood fritters fend off any excess of richness with fresh watercress and pickled walnuts, while a little crab apple jelly and bitter-edged chicory bring out the savouriness in a muscular pigeon and Tamworth pork terrine. Share a chicken and girolles pie, or go for roast cull yaw, served tenderly pink with a tangle of rainbow chard and the salty livener of anchovies. A nostalgia- and butter-laden apple and plum crumble comes in its own little pan with sufficient custard to pour generously, but the brown butter and honey tart is the star – a pitch-perfect combination of snappy pastry, silk-smooth custard and shimmering wobble.
*Owen Kenworthy has left the Pelican to take up the role of chef-patron at Julie's in Holland Park. Watch this space. *
Big, solid and glamorous, this strikingly converted Notting Hill corner pub has the exceptional atmosphere of… Read more
*Owen Kenworthy has left the Pelican to take up the role of chef-patron at Julie's in Holland Park. Watch this space. *
Big, solid and glamorous, this strikingly converted Notting Hill corner pub has the exceptional atmosphere of a genuinely valued neighbourhood hangout. That could mean squeezing through a throng (drinking top picks from Portobello Brewing and Bristol’s Lost and Grounded) to get to the dining room. The pay-off is in the gathering of chef-director Owen Kenworthy's estimable experience (Brawn, Primeur, The Wolseley) and a menu of modern British gems with provenance high on the priority list. Among the pub classics – sausage roll, Welsh rarebit, mince on toast and beef tartare (with Gentleman's Relish and crisps) – there's lots of fish. Hake, flakey and translucent comes smothered in brown butter, big langoustines are fresh enough to be eaten head-first, and a fabulous lobster and monkfish pie with lobster-head gravy provides indulgence for two to share. Veggie dishes aren't the ascetic alternative, though, if confit leeks with black-garlic sauce and crispy onions or Crown Prince pumpkin with sour cream are the measure. To finish, it's trifles, possets and parkin. The wine list is carefully curated and offers value at all price points.
A requisitioned side-street pub near Finsbury Park, the Plimsoll has been converted with only the lightest touch, its former shabbiness given a good scrub-up, but not so antiseptically that it no longer feels like a boozer. An ori… Read more
A requisitioned side-street pub near Finsbury Park, the Plimsoll has been converted with only the lightest touch, its former shabbiness given a good scrub-up, but not so antiseptically that it no longer feels like a boozer. An original partition divides drinkers from diners, with ancient carpets, a clutch of faintly startling mirrorballs, and crockery that could do service in a seaside tea room adding to the overall appeal. Ed McIlroy and Jamie Allen have established a following that borders on the cultish for food that doesn't turn its nose up at those who want a very good burger, but also essays experiments in visual bombardment. Pinks and greens are a favoured juxta-collision, whether for sea bass crudo in grass-green oil with rhubarb shards, or rose-coloured pork belly with vivid spears of asparagus. Deeply flavoured clam broth with broad beans and pancetta hits the comfort note beautifully, and the Italian turns – ricotta gnudi with veal ragù – are as richly melodious as Caruso. Thickly textured chocolate mousse is adorned like a salad with a trickle of olive oil and a scatter of sea salt. 'It isn't fine dining,' the proprietors warn, though it seems damn fine to us. Noise levels will be a factor for some, as will backless pub stools, but then the drinks are so keenly priced (for London, anyway).
This historic Victorian hostelry on a quiet road in Notting Hill has been given a new lease of life by Cubitt House, owner of a number of London dining pubs – and it's by far the best in the group, in our opinion. The makeov… Read more
This historic Victorian hostelry on a quiet road in Notting Hill has been given a new lease of life by Cubitt House, owner of a number of London dining pubs – and it's by far the best in the group, in our opinion. The makeover is impressive with an exterior painted in British 'racing green' and plenty of rustic charm within, accentuated by bare brick walls, potted plants and marble-topped tables. There’s a choice of dining spots: at the counter by the raw bar, to the rear in a cosy room with black leather chesterfields, or in a light-filled conservatory with sofa seating right next to the large back garden. Service is laid-back and pleasant without being too chummy, while the (dog-friendly) vibe is positively relaxed. Ben Tish (ex-Norma and the Game Bird) has been recruited to lead the kitchen and has devised a sophisticated, Mediterranean-inspired menu of snacks, small and large plates and salads. From the raw bar selection, super-fresh hand-dived scallop crudo with carosello cucumber was lifted by a lemon dressing and a sprinkling of dill, chilli and marjoram – ‘not the sort of dish you find in most pubs,' noted an inspector. Nor is a small plate of three cheese pizzette fritti served with burrata, mascarpone, Fontina and spring truffle, or a gutsy piece of salt marsh lamb (paired with French beans, peas, courgettes and a scoop of ricotta) made special with a gentle hit from rose harissa. To finish, doughnuts with raspberry jam and Marsala custard were pronounced ‘delicious’ but there are also Neal’s Yard cheeses to consider – especially if you want to continue exploring the broad-minded collection of wines. Expect plenty of variety for most budgets, with plentiful options by the glass, and bottles starting at £29.
Following on from the Tamil Prince in Barnsbury, Prince Durairaj (of Roti King fame) has repeated the formula in what was the old Charles Lamb pub on Elia Street, just behind Angel station. The Tamil Crown is almost a carbon copy … Read more
Following on from the Tamil Prince in Barnsbury, Prince Durairaj (of Roti King fame) has repeated the formula in what was the old Charles Lamb pub on Elia Street, just behind Angel station. The Tamil Crown is almost a carbon copy of its predecessor, although it feels calmer and there’s more space: the venue is spread over two floors with a traditional dining room upstairs and a ground-floor space including a bar, complete with a cosy fireplace, candles and a sofa – ideal if you fancy a pint and a quick bite.
Staff are keen to upsell, but we prefer to keep it cheap and simple by ordering just one dish – the beef masala uthappam (like a smaller, thick dosa spread with spicy meat) is an ‘absolute standout’. Quite a few staple dishes have made the move from the Prince to the Crown, notably regional classics from the eponymous Tamil Nadu region of the subcontinent: the crispy okra fries, robata lamb chops and Thanjavur chicken curry are all present and correct, although our prawn moilee suffered from cloying coconut overkill.
The billowing, flaky roti breads are excellent (as you would expect given Prince Durairaj’s background) and drinkers have plenty of ales on tap, as well as some spiced-up cocktails and well-chosen wines. Also check out the Sunday menu, with its masala-roasted chickens and lamb shanks plus Indian veg, roast potatoes and gravy.
Occupying a former pub in the Barnsbury quarter of Islington, this regional Indian restaurant has become a huge hit with knowledgeable locals. Set up by chef Prince Durairaj (previously at Roti King) and JKS GM Glen Leeson, it off… Read more
Occupying a former pub in the Barnsbury quarter of Islington, this regional Indian restaurant has become a huge hit with knowledgeable locals. Set up by chef Prince Durairaj (previously at Roti King) and JKS GM Glen Leeson, it offers a smartly attired interior featuring dark walls and a weathered bare-wood floor, plus bar counter seating and a bamboo-shielded terrace out front. As the name indicates, the cooking is at least partly oriented to the southern states of India – and it displays plenty of brio. Proceedings might start with fried prawn and curry-leaf varuval, dressed in an assertive spicy paste. Hailing from the northern reaches of the Subcontinent, the huge, puffed chana bhatura (deep-fried bread accompanied by chickpeas and raita) is something of a showstopper. Returning to Tamil Nadu, the Chettinad lamb curry has impressive depth of flavour, with exhilarating spicing and tender meat, or there is an equally zesty Thanjavur chicken dish. Small, candy-like chunks of paneer are the stars of a butter masala. Durairaj's previous experience shows in the superb buttery roti, an accompaniment that should not be missed. To conclude, gulab jamun is unctuously sweet (as expected), but with a firmer, more satisfying texture than is typical. If that seems a bit much after the substantial preceding dishes, look to mango lassi for refreshment. There is some sound drinking on offer too, with cocktails and mocktails boasting Indian flavours – the rebooted Piña Colada with cinnamon, toasted coconut and lime zest is a doozy. An imaginative wine selection opens at £29 (£8 a glass), while water is served in repurposed gin bottles.
An upmarket pub with rooms that’s also a true local hangout. Here you’ll find folk having business meetings alongside yoga mums and smart families (drawn by the pretty playground out back). There's something for everyo… Read more
An upmarket pub with rooms that’s also a true local hangout. Here you’ll find folk having business meetings alongside yoga mums and smart families (drawn by the pretty playground out back). There's something for everyone, from pints and bar snacks in the old-fashioned bar (complete with sport on TV) to proper food from the restaurant menu (also available at the bar if you ask). With really good meat for the local rugby types and Asian chopped salad for their trendily vegan partners, it’s all very relaxed.
Reborn riverside hostelry with distinctive food and a cosy vibe
At a time when so many pubs are closing down, it's heart-warming to see the revival of this riverside hostelry. The revamped Waterman's Arms now sets out its stall as a neighbourhood pub-cum-restaurant where exposed brick wal… Read more
At a time when so many pubs are closing down, it's heart-warming to see the revival of this riverside hostelry. The revamped Waterman's Arms now sets out its stall as a neighbourhood pub-cum-restaurant where exposed brick walls, wooden benches softened by claret-coloured velvet cushions, candlelight and views of the Thames across the way make it the perfect spot to unwind.
When we called in, a bluesy soundtrack added to the mood, making it so cosy that we were reluctant to leave. Eager young staff also gave the impression that they just wanted us to hang around and have a good time. The kitchen is headed by Sam Andrews (ex-Camberwell Arms and Soho's Ducksoup), who has created a concise seasonal menu with daily specials chalked up on a board – market fish with saffron, for example.
The cooking is direct, with few excesses, and the kitchen teases out maximum flavour with the minimum of fuss – as seen in our starter of gutsy, satisfying confit pork with white onion on toast. Mains are equally impressive, from big flakes of gurnard tangled with kohlrabi, coriander and a dash of yoghurt to juicy duck breast served with Provençal onions, olives and a blood-orange segment. After that, a wedge of mature Comté, accompanied by prunes and spelt digestives, paved the way for a pleasing sweet finale involving poached pear with dark chocolate and crème anglaise.
Weekday lunches on Thursdays and Fridays are great value, and Sunday brings a choice of roasts in addition to the usual repertoire. Like everything here, the choice of beers, cocktails and the diverse wines (from £28.50) has been put together with care.
A centrally located watering hole with food that's worth knowing about
Beamed unexpectedly into the middle of the Wigmore, you might easily imagine you were in a London pub, albeit one that has been spruced and burnished to a high degree. A happy babble fills the air, there are cask ales and craft be… Read more
Beamed unexpectedly into the middle of the Wigmore, you might easily imagine you were in a London pub, albeit one that has been spruced and burnished to a high degree. A happy babble fills the air, there are cask ales and craft beers being quaffed all round (including the house special, Saison) and the offer extends to early-bird breakfasts and roasts on Sundays. The fact that the Wigmore is in a component organ of the conspicuously snazzy Langham Hotel, its kitchen overseen by Michel Roux Jr, is a mere background detail to the scene.
The bar snacks are a noticeable cut above the norm of your average neighbourhood boozer. The focaccia comes with caponata and vegan feta, or you could plump for crispy artichoke with saffron aïoli – in acknowledgement of the instinct for something crunchy to eat with beer. Otherwise, splash out on the gooey ‘XXL stovetop toastie’, a three-cheese goodie. If you graduate to the main courses, expect roast cod with cauliflower and curried leeks, pearl barley risotto or braised venison with pumpkin purée and chanterelles.
Whether you're calling them a snack or a side, the fat chips showered in Bloody Mary salt are worth the asking price, and nobody will baulk at cinnamon-spiced cheesecake with prune and apple compôte to finish. If you're more grape than grain, fear not. There's a decent showing of wines by the glass, with crisp whites and full-throttle reds adding to the gaiety.
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