The George

Fitzrovia, London

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Born of chef James Knappett's interest in adding historic pubs to the JKS restaurant group, the new iteration of the Grade II-listed George is a panelled bar below, smart dining room above. The ground floor is for good beer, robust snacks and pub classics of impeccable origin, while in the series of upstairs rooms, there's something of a revival going on by way of devilled kidneys and gurnard with brown crab sauce. A lovingly compiled list of English sparkling wines sets the drinks offer apart.