The Anchor & Hope
Waterloo, London
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In the two decades since the Anchor & Hope poured its first pint, reassuringly little has changed at this now-classic London dining pub. Behold the oxblood walls, the weathered wooden tables, and the crowds of theatregoers pouring in before and after shows at the Young and Old Vic. Everywhere else has changed, which makes the pub’s skilled but unpretentious cooking look even better value than ever. The daily changing menu moves from small to large, increasing in price incrementally but not crossing the £30 main course rubicon (on our visit). It feels deliberate; a decision not to price people out. Indeed, there are many good dishes for a third of the top mark, such as maccu (a Sicilian fava bean soup with pecorino). Its polenta-esque beige hues look plain to the point of St John parody but come with the hidden surprise of crunchy croûtons – tasty and comforting. If you prefer more colour on your plate, make it Maldon smoked salmon with cucumber and horseradish, or taramasalata with Melba toast and Kalamata olives. Scottish mackerel is fresh in that day, and you can tell: the flesh coming away from the bone in soft, large flakes, it's a beautiful fish, handled with care, with little more than soy, ginger and garlic dressing for company. Founded by alumni of St John, that cradle of British nose-to-tail cookery, this pub takes a broader view – encompassing South Coast plaice with langoustine beurre blanc, duck confit with cumin-spiced lentils and labneh, lobster with chips and mayo, and desserts including lemon pot with cassis and shortbread. Be assured that the Anchor & Hope remains a pub. Know that you can always pop in for a pint of cask ale – although rustic French wines and sub-£10 cocktails are there, should you prefer.
