The Plimsoll
Finsbury Park, London
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A requisitioned side-street pub near Finsbury Park, the Plimsoll has been converted with only the lightest touch, its former shabbiness given a good scrub-up, but not so antiseptically that it no longer feels like a boozer. An original partition divides drinkers from diners, with ancient carpets, a clutch of faintly startling mirrorballs, and crockery that could do service in a seaside tea room adding to the overall appeal. Ed McIlroy and Jamie Allen have established a following that borders on the cultish for food that doesn't turn its nose up at those who want a very good burger, but also essays experiments in visual bombardment. Pinks and greens are a favoured juxta-collision, whether for sea bass crudo in grass-green oil with rhubarb shards, or rose-coloured pork belly with vivid spears of asparagus. Deeply flavoured clam broth with broad beans and pancetta hits the comfort note beautifully, and the Italian turns – ricotta gnudi with veal ragù – are as richly melodious as Caruso. Thickly textured chocolate mousse is adorned like a salad with a trickle of olive oil and a scatter of sea salt. 'It isn't fine dining,' the proprietors warn, though it seems damn fine to us. Noise levels will be a factor for some, as will backless pub stools, but then the drinks are so keenly priced (for London, anyway).
