The Crossing Barnes
Barnes, London
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As a sensitive and family-friendly re-imagining of an old pub, it seems that owner Christian Arden has got this place finely tuned to the local neighbourhood – with excellent service to boot. The spacious bar/dining room is understated, filled with light from huge windows, backed up by a few pavement tables to the front and a large, walled sun-trap garden to the rear. It’s just the sort of place where folk feel comfortable dropping in for a pint, a cocktail or something from the decent selection of wines by the glass, before deciding to make an evening of it with dishes from the appealingly short menu. A springtime visit yielded satisfying pub staples ranging from reassuringly cheesy cauliflower croquettes to an old-fashioned chicken forrestière with hispi cabbage and new potatoes, alongside specialities with a Mediterranean slant. A bowl of pea soup with mint, lemon and 'nduja oil was a generous portion, as was sea bream (crispy on top, meltingly flaky underneath), served with cauliflower purée, pickled apples, kale and brown shrimps. To conclude, a classic tiramisu was everything it should be. The garden comes into its own in summer, when the pizza oven is turned on.
