The Wigmore
London, Marylebone - Modern British - Pub - ££
Some people might run a mile from a place describing itself as a 'deluxe re-imagining of the Great British Pub', especially one attached to a five-star hotel (The Langham), but the Wigmore has a lot going for it. The space is positively glamorous, with a handsome bar taking centre stage, marble-topped tables, rich forest-green walls and a soaring, ornate ceiling. The parquet floor would make a fine addition to any manor house. There are keg lagers and IPAs at the bar and some cask ales, but it's the cocktails that best suit the place – Exotic Old Fashioned or East 8 Hopped Up, anyone? The menu is fired up with ambition, thanks to the influence of Michel Roux Jr, so small plates (aka 'snacks') might include anything from wee buttered crumpets topped with fresh-as-a-daisy cock crab to masala-spiced Scotch egg with a moreish dhal relish. The XXL stovetop cheese and mustard toastie has its own PR machine but is nonetheless just a toastie (it is big, though). To follow, the salt ...
Some people might run a mile from a place describing itself as a 'deluxe re-imagining of the Great British Pub', especially one attached to a five-star hotel (The Langham), but the Wigmore has a lot going for it. The space is positively glamorous, with a handsome bar taking centre stage, marble-topped tables, rich forest-green walls and a soaring, ornate ceiling. The parquet floor would make a fine addition to any manor house. There are keg lagers and IPAs at the bar and some cask ales, but it's the cocktails that best suit the place – Exotic Old Fashioned or East 8 Hopped Up, anyone? The menu is fired up with ambition, thanks to the influence of Michel Roux Jr, so small plates (aka 'snacks') might include anything from wee buttered crumpets topped with fresh-as-a-daisy cock crab to masala-spiced Scotch egg with a moreish dhal relish. The XXL stovetop cheese and mustard toastie has its own PR machine but is nonetheless just a toastie (it is big, though). To follow, the salt beef pie with mash is hearty and satisfying, so it's a shame when roast halibut spends a little too long in the oven (served with coco beans, chorizo and sweetcorn), and slow-cooked pork belly is somewhat overloaded with garlic. After that, fruity treats such as strawberry tart or cherry Eton mess beckon. The Wigmore wears its pub credentials with pride (sport on TV, quiz nights, weekday breakfasts), and the place works equally well as a watering hole or restaurant – this is the 21st century after all.
VENUE DETAILS
15 Langham Place
Marylebone
W1B 3DE
020 7965 0198
OTHER INFORMATION
Accommodation, Private dining room, Wheelchair access