The Pelican
Notting Hill, London
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*Owen Kenworthy has left the Pelican to take up the role of chef-patron at Julie's in Holland Park, which is re-launching in May 2024. Watch this space. *
Big, solid and glamorous, this strikingly converted Notting Hill corner pub has the exceptional atmosphere of a genuinely valued neighbourhood hangout. That could mean squeezing through a throng (drinking top picks from Portobello Brewing and Bristol’s Lost and Grounded) to get to the dining room. The pay-off is in the gathering of chef-director Owen Kenworthy's estimable experience (Brawn, Primeur, The Wolseley) and a menu of modern British gems with provenance high on the priority list. Among the pub classics – sausage roll, Welsh rarebit, mince on toast and beef tartare (with Gentleman's Relish and crisps) – there's lots of fish. Hake, flakey and translucent comes smothered in brown butter, big langoustines are fresh enough to be eaten head-first, and a fabulous lobster and monkfish pie with lobster-head gravy provides indulgence for two to share. Veggie dishes aren't the ascetic alternative, though, if confit leeks with black-garlic sauce and crispy onions or Crown Prince pumpkin with sour cream are the measure. To finish, it's trifles, possets and parkin. The wine list is carefully curated and offers value at all price points.
