Our favourite Indian restaurants across Britain Published 29 October 2024
Indian food in Britain is no longer low-cost, one-flavour-fits-all, post-pub curry fare. Today, British Indian restaurants reflect an exciting, nuanced cuisine, inflected with the scope of flavours of the sub-continent, deserving of the same respect as the finest classical cookery. Here are some of our favourite spots across Britain, from budget-friendly cafés to decadent fine-dining restaurants.
The name means something like 'At the sign of the pomegranate'. A few blocks from the South Promenade and the thrills and spills of Blackpool's Pleasure Beach, this neighbourhood Indian restaurant is everybody's idea of an invalua… Read more
The name means something like 'At the sign of the pomegranate'. A few blocks from the South Promenade and the thrills and spills of Blackpool's Pleasure Beach, this neighbourhood Indian restaurant is everybody's idea of an invaluable local resource. Behind a leafy-green frontage, the place exudes a family feeling, with cooking that is steeped in the Subcontinent's ancestral traditions and executed with impressive flair. Sharing platters encourage a sense of togetherness, but otherwise the menu works in the expected way, with extras of naan breads and parathas alongside main dishes such as punchy sarson (mustard) prawns in coconut milk and poppy seeds, creamy khichri with salmon, or perhaps the special chicken thighs in a ('secret') spicy mix underpinned by garlic, ginger and onion, singing with the flavour and sizzle of fresh green chilli. You might preface these treats with crisp-coated paneer pakora, or the unmissable lehsuni houmous – textured with garlic oil and the pop of pomegranate seeds, served with tandoori roti. Desserts herald some of India's aromatic classics including bowls of kheer – soft rice pudding flavoured with cardamom, rosewater, cashews and pistachios. Fruity cocktails, meanwhile, offer a true taste of Blackpool. Varietal wines from a makeshift list start at £17.
A local institution with creative Indian food that's a cut above
‘Serving up exceptional curries since 1985,’ Forest Hill’s beloved Babur just keeps on rolling – and it's still the go-to option for locals wanting prettily plated Indian food that’s a cut above … Read more
‘Serving up exceptional curries since 1985,’ Forest Hill’s beloved Babur just keeps on rolling – and it's still the go-to option for locals wanting prettily plated Indian food that’s a cut above your average high-street curry house. It’s also family-run, ‘rooted in the local community‘ and run by kindly staff who give everyone a ‘genuinely warm welcome’. Over the years, it has become increasingly stylish and distinctive, with a hand-painted kalamkari horoscope in the foyer, low-hanging lights, exposed brickwork and wooden partitions holding elaborate floral displays.
Meanwhile, the kitchen scours the Subcontinent for regional ideas while offering dedicated menus for those with special dietary needs. The full repertoire bypasses kormas and dhansaks in favour of more intricate, modern ideas such as goat tikka with a cumin puff and aubergine mash, steamed shoulder of lamb (marinated for 100 hours) with beetroot rice, or spiced stone bass with chana masala yoghurt and papaya chutney. Vegetable dishes and sides are also full of promise – think garlicky spinach with sweetcorn and mushrooms or thinly sliced fried potatoes dusted with mango powder.
To finish, try the milk sponge cake with saffron gel or the chocolate fondant spiced with cumin.On Sundays, Babur’s ‘help yourself’ family buffet is something of a local institution in its own right. The wine list has been knowledgeably assembled with food in mind, but it would be remiss to ignore the zippy Asian-themed cocktails.
The capital's Indian restaurant scene is booming, with openings across the spectrum from street food to high-end cuisine, yet this venture from the JKS group (Sabor, Lyle’s, Hoppers, Gymkhana, Bao etc) is one of the most exc… Read more
The capital's Indian restaurant scene is booming, with openings across the spectrum from street food to high-end cuisine, yet this venture from the JKS group (Sabor, Lyle’s, Hoppers, Gymkhana, Bao etc) is one of the most exciting to date. A short distance from Selfridges, and fronted by an outdoor heated terrace, it’s a bijou space, long, narrow, dimly lit and dominated by an open-plan kitchen. Most seats are at the counter overlooking the chefs at work, though there are some black-leather booths along the opposite wall; the vibe is sociable, aided by a lively soundtrack and a highly charged service team. It’s a great platform for chef Chetan Sharma, who has L’Enclume and Moor Hall in his culinary DNA. He doesn't disappoint, experimenting with ingredients and techniques while fusing different culinary influences into his own individualistic style – although everything is rooted in traditional Indian cooking. The result is an innovative, contemporary menu (two tasters and a carte) based around small plates, chaat (street food) and grilled dishes. Layers of flavour are built up gradually: a raw scallop is provocatively paired with blood orange and Indian lemonade ('a beautiful marriage between the soft, sweet mollusc and the citrusy pop’); tender grilled Lahori chicken comes with a cashew and yoghurt whey. Elsewhere, okra is given a lift with peanuts, sesame and fermented chilli, while 'sides' such as roomali roti or pilau rice cooked in a little chicken broth and topped with deep-fried onions merit a central role. The ‘addictive’ sweet-spicy notes of puffy sweetcorn nuggets served with Kashmiri yellow chilli and corn-husk mayonnaise make a brilliant opening salvo; saffron and white chocolate kulfi 'in the shape of a Magnum ice cream' provides the perfect finale. Wines have been thoughtfully assembled with the food in mind, although prices aren't cheap.
Anyone who has seen the movie The Lunchbox will know about the ‘dabbawalas’ who bike thousands of tiffin tins to office workers across Mumbai and other Indian cities. This casual sibling of Jamavar brings some of that … Read more
Anyone who has seen the movie The Lunchbox will know about the ‘dabbawalas’ who bike thousands of tiffin tins to office workers across Mumbai and other Indian cities. This casual sibling of Jamavar brings some of that homespun subcontinental spice and flavour to central Mayfair, with plenty of (Bombay) bustle and noisy chatter to go with the smoky aromas. Against a slick Art Deco backdrop inspired by the city’s first-class railway carriages, the kitchen doles out dishes full of up-front punch and invigorating freshness, with touches of glamour and panache thrown in for good measure. Some of the best things are the small plates – pao buns stuffed with lamb keema, peppery spiced scrambled eggs with truffle oil and naan, crispy new potatoes with Tulsi chilli chutney. If something more substantial is required, look to the line-up of tandoor-fired dishes, biryanis and curries – from Goan-style stone bass tikka with chilli paste to Malabar lamb or a version of chicken Madras involving coconut milk and ‘southern spices’. Dhals, vegetables and sides will please all palates and persuasions, while dessert might bring masala chai panna cotta with strawberries and figs. On Sunday, the Bombay Bustle 'brunch bundle' is a local hit. To drink, east-west cocktails are quite the thing here, (try the signature G&T made with Nagpur orange bitter and gin distilled in a 100-year-old copper pot); otherwise glug a bottle of Indian beer or something from the global wine list.
The fact that this vibrant suburban Indian is in a residential area well away from Stockport’s main drag means that it’s still a proper locals’ restaurant – even though its fame has now spread far beyond SK… Read more
The fact that this vibrant suburban Indian is in a residential area well away from Stockport’s main drag means that it’s still a proper locals’ restaurant – even though its fame has now spread far beyond SK7. Much of the credit must go to owners Sandeep Gursahani and Donya Bonyadi, who put their heart and soul into the place, treat kids with affection and ensure that standards remain ‘sky-high’. The interior is a riot of colour (posters, framed photographs, murals, bright orange napkins), while ‘incredibly friendly’ staff are always happy to guide diners through the menu. Check out the Indo-Chinese specialities and dishes from Sindh province (Sandeep’s homeland), although there are well-rendered regional winners wherever you look. Regulars know most of the repertoire by heart but there is always the odd surprise, such as a lightly spiced chicken kebab – hunks of juicy meat, each on a hanging skewer, set over smouldering charcoal to give the whole thing a delicious smokiness. Hits are many and varied, from the crispest masala dosa with soothing coconut chutney to the ‘Mumbai sizzler’ (a fiercely hot metal skillet with cubes of paneer, onions, a stuffed pepper, makhani sauce and rice) – perfect with a superb onion and chilli kulcha. Fans of Bollywood movies will recognise the curious names of some dishes: Lai Bhaari, for example, is a fabulous lamb creation with a gorgeous sauce (sweet jaggery, sharp tamarind, earthily savoury peanuts). To finish, try a ‘sizzling brownie’ or the mini white chocolate and cinnamon samosa. Drink Indian beer or one of the Bollywood-themed cocktails.
Manchester's fine 'rice 'n' three' tradition comes to Salford in the form of this Gujarati café, MediaCity's most wholesome (and popular) indie offering. A daily dish rotation – pick three to eat with fluffy rice &nda… Read more
Manchester's fine 'rice 'n' three' tradition comes to Salford in the form of this Gujarati café, MediaCity's most wholesome (and popular) indie offering. A daily dish rotation – pick three to eat with fluffy rice – includes treasures such as lamb karahi or floaty-light coconut and spinach tarka dhal. It's a popular al-desko takeaway, but you can eat in from cardboard bowls at the basic bench seating. Either way, the correct response to the offer of chillies and chutneys is 'all of them, please'.
After a brief sojourn in Covent Garden, Asma Khan’s popular Indian eatery is back where it all started, on the top floor of Carnaby Street’s Kingly Court, next door to the site of the original venue. It's a coveted, li… Read more
After a brief sojourn in Covent Garden, Asma Khan’s popular Indian eatery is back where it all started, on the top floor of Carnaby Street’s Kingly Court, next door to the site of the original venue. It's a coveted, light-filled corner spot, low-key but comfortable, with creamy butter-coloured walls and ceilings, wood floors, marble-topped tables and lots of green plants. There’s a view into the kitchen where an all-female brigade weaves flavours in a style that blends Bengali, Hyderabadi and Kolkatan influences, deftly applying their skills to a hotchpotch of street food, home-style and classic dishes. Dinner is a 'royal thali' fixed-price deal, but there's also plenty to savour on the lunchtime carte – the sort of menu from which you want to order everything. Classic channa chat brings lovely tangy sweet-sour flavours and good textural contrast, there are moreish momos (Tibetan steamed dumplings) in both meat and veggie versions, plus utterly delicious fresh paneer served in a rich, creamy coconut-heavy korma sauce, and a gutsy Bengali-style slow-cooked goat curry served on the bone. Spicing is clean, clear and punchy, while incidentals and sides of, say, crunchy green beans with cumin and dried red chillies, are no slackers. Only a dish of rather watery, insipid tamarind dhal disappointed at our test meal. Service is cheerful, brisk and efficient, while drinks run from lassis, cocktails and Indian beer to a brief international wine list.
Shake off the humdrum location (beside the busy Otley Road in north Leeds) and relax into the easy enjoyment of Dastaan. Sibling of the original restaurant in Epsom, with Nand Kishor Semwal (ex-Gymkhana) as executive chef, it bear… Read more
Shake off the humdrum location (beside the busy Otley Road in north Leeds) and relax into the easy enjoyment of Dastaan. Sibling of the original restaurant in Epsom, with Nand Kishor Semwal (ex-Gymkhana) as executive chef, it bears many of the same hallmarks: faultlessly warm, attentive service and a fresh, snappy menu which skirts all the curry-house clichés. Start with spinach and kale bhajiya or generous, charred wedges of paneer tikka with bright mint chutney before delving into a pork cheek vindaloo or Malvani fish curry. The vast 130-cover dining room has its own bar serving up cocktails, mocktails, local Kirkstall Brewery beer on draught and a selection of mainstream wines.
Hugely popular, not least for its 'super-fair' pricing and vibrant, inclusive atmosphere, this South Indian favourite takes a masterly approach to carbs. Dosas, which can be roasted with homemade ghee or stuffed with the house pot… Read more
Hugely popular, not least for its 'super-fair' pricing and vibrant, inclusive atmosphere, this South Indian favourite takes a masterly approach to carbs. Dosas, which can be roasted with homemade ghee or stuffed with the house potato masala, are big, crisp and shiny, while the parathas are gloriously ragged and the pooris puffy. Eat them with veggie and vegan curries such as tempting tamarind chickpeas, though there are homespun takes on chicken and lamb classics too. Everything comes together on Sundays for 'particularly good' sapaad feasts, popular across the generations. A new outdoor space is getting noticed.
* From 16 September 2024, Empire Empire's restaurant space will be taken over each morning by Moi et Toi – a French bakery serving Gallic patisserie based on British produce.*
In recent months, a number of restaurant o… Read more
* From 16 September 2024, Empire Empire's restaurant space will be taken over each morning by Moi et Toi – a French bakery serving Gallic patisserie based on British produce.*
In recent months, a number of restaurant openings have put the spotlight on Notting Hill as a broadly based foodie destination. Empire Empire, from Harneet Baweja of the Gunpowder group, is one of them. Inspired by India’s 1970s disco scene, it’s a cosy dining space with an old-school look rather than Bollywood-style overkill: think coloured tiled flooring, dark wood furnishings, oval-shaped lighting and white tablecloths. In addition, there's a jukebox and a photo booth, while vintage album covers of Indian disco performers and artwork by leading artists, Jorgensen Chowdhury and Rabin Mondal, adorn the whitewashed walls. Infectious Indian disco tunes provide fun and energy and the whole place is run in a relaxed and amiable manner. The food focuses on northwest India and the Punjab, with nashta (snacks) and starters, kebabs and tikkas, biryanis and curries. We enjoyed moreish deep-fried golden-brown fish and prawn Amritsari pakoras, and the charcoal grill was put to good use for a tender bihari ribeye beef kebab. Flavours are big and rich with spice – witness a gamey sag gosht and a bhindi dopiaza packed with tomatoes and onion. The naan bread, fresh from the oven, is irresistible, while sweet and spongy gulab jamun with ice cream figures among the desserts. To drink, cocktails and beers line up alongside a concise list of natural wines.
Named after a potent South Indian spice mix, not the black chemical explosive, this cute, cosy and cramped canteen on a backstreet near Spitalfields Market is East London’s take on a traditional Indian roadside dhaba. You ca… Read more
Named after a potent South Indian spice mix, not the black chemical explosive, this cute, cosy and cramped canteen on a backstreet near Spitalfields Market is East London’s take on a traditional Indian roadside dhaba. You can’t book, space is tight, and the decor is bare bones (think exposed brickwork, functional furnishings and no-frills crockery), but the kitchen delivers on its promise. Home-style recipes from the owners’ native Kolkata are reworked and recast as intriguing small plates with plenty of up-front fire and spice – as in egg curry masala, the house chaat with Norfolk potatoes or punchy venison and vermicelli doughnuts (a top call on the succinct menu). Alternatively, if sharing is your preference, go for bigger plates such as steamed sea bass infused with mustard, pork ribs and tamarind kachumbar or spinach with tandoori paneer. For afters, the must-have dessert is the Old Monk rum pudding – a boozy ‘bread and butter’ riff, served with an extra shot of liquor if you want it. Two dozen spice-friendly wines (from £30) match the food; otherwise, plump for a can of thirst-quenching Disco lager or a frisky gin wala Negroni.
Originally inspired by colonial India’s Days of the Raj polo clubs, this thoroughbred from the JKS group (Trishna, Brigadiers, Hoppers etc) is a classy Mayfair package spread over two levels connected by a mirrored staircase… Read more
Originally inspired by colonial India’s Days of the Raj polo clubs, this thoroughbred from the JKS group (Trishna, Brigadiers, Hoppers etc) is a classy Mayfair package spread over two levels connected by a mirrored staircase. Most of the action takes place in the ground-floor dining room and bar, with its richly upholstered leather seating, whirring ceiling fans, old prints and stag’s heads – not forgetting hunting trophies from the Maharaja of Jodhpur. The menu shines the spotlight on grills, game and chops, all given a thrilling contemporary spin to match the gussied-up surroundings – from Goan-style salmon tikka with tomato chutney to guinea fowl pepper fry served with a Malabar paratha or tandoori lamb chops unexpectedly pointed up with walnut chutney. Elsewhere, pork cheek vindaloo and a wild muntjac biryani sound inviting, while fans of rogan josh and chicken butter masala also have plenty to cheer about. For something more esoteric, home in on the assortment of ‘nashta’ small plates, perhaps minced kid goat methi keema with pao bread or duck-egg bhurji scrambled with lobster and served alongside a Malabar paratha. Desserts (meetha) continue the mashed-up crossover theme, as in a take on tiramisu involving rasgulla (a syrupy, sponge-like Asian classic) or a Basmati rice pudding (kheer) spiced with cardamom and accompanied by mango sorbet. The standalone bar dispenses cocktails and reinvented punches, alongside nibbles of Amritsari shrimps or Punjabi samosas with sweet/sour tamarind-spiked 'saunth' chutney. Otherwise, specially brewed 4th Rifles Pale Ale and a compendium of thoughtfully selected wines (including some English sparklers) suit the food admirably.
A neighbourhood favourite on the route of one of south Manchester's most characterful passeggiatas, Indique continues to generate enthusiastic feedback. The kitchen's hand with flavour extends across its Indian street food, grills… Read more
A neighbourhood favourite on the route of one of south Manchester's most characterful passeggiatas, Indique continues to generate enthusiastic feedback. The kitchen's hand with flavour extends across its Indian street food, grills and signature curries, with classic vegetable dishes especially well-judged. Striking presentation and the odd visual flourish may be contemporary, but they contribute to a sense of old-fashioned care.
Spread across two floors on one of the capital's most exclusive streets, this extravagant Mayfair hot spot is a luxurious prospect – think swathes of marble flooring, copper-gold framed mirrors, mother-of-pearl insets, dark … Read more
Spread across two floors on one of the capital's most exclusive streets, this extravagant Mayfair hot spot is a luxurious prospect – think swathes of marble flooring, copper-gold framed mirrors, mother-of-pearl insets, dark wood panelling, alluring lighting and lots of polished leather. Originally created for the Leela Palaces, Hotels & Resorts group in India, Jamavar arrived in London in 2016 and continues to serve up some of the most sophisticated Indian food in town. Underpinned by prime seasonal produce, an indulgent menu criss-crosses the Subcontinent, adding a few modern-day twists and delivering the likes of Narangi prawns with tangy orange-blossom butter, coconut chips and dried lime granules, which got our meal off to a bright start. Also worthy of attention was a tantalising fillet of Malai stone bass, marinated with mace and green cardamom before being cooked in the tandoor, the delicate flavours perfectly matched by an avocado and mint chutney. A rich, gamey curry of kid goat with cinnamon and fresh fenugreek leaves was another standout, while the searing heat of the tandoor worked wonders on some large morels, allowing their umami to mingle with green peas, tomato and mint chutney. Skilled and sensitive craftsmanship continued right to the end when a seasonal rasmalai hit the sweet spot perfectly – the spongy wheat confection served with a creamy syrup flavoured with winter berries and saffron. The wine list is big and international, with the emphasis on European growers; prices reflect the prestigious postcode although, commendably, there are more than 25 selections by the glass too.
In an area of south London crying out for decent places to eat, we have high hopes that this 'really good', all-day Indian newcomer will succeed. Kachori certainly sticks out from the local competition. Found on the ground floor o… Read more
In an area of south London crying out for decent places to eat, we have high hopes that this 'really good', all-day Indian newcomer will succeed. Kachori certainly sticks out from the local competition. Found on the ground floor of a new development by Elephant and Castle tube station, it exudes coolness; the room is big and glossy, scoring highly with its slick bar, black-and-white chequered flooring, dark wood furnishings, oval cut-glass lights and muslin canopies over gold-coloured banquettes. You might think you are in W1 but, even with the growing gentrification of this area, it's unlike anywhere else in SE17. The kitchen is headed by Brinder Narula (ex-Gymkhana, Benares), who has developed a menu inspired by the cooking of northern India – so expect small plates, burgers with an Anglo-Indian twist, biryanis, tandooris and grills, as well as enticing larger plates. We started with the restaurant’s namesake, a huge ball of truffle-infused green-pea kachori (a deep-fried sticky snack), as well as melt-in-your-mouth spice-infused guinea fowl tikka served with 'tempered curd rice'. Spot-on spicing was also a feature of bigger dishes, from shelled jumbo prawns cooked in the tandoor and teamed with avocado raita to a richly favoured goat bhuna with cumin, cloves, pickled ginger and turmeric, while a vegetarian stir-fry of soft portobello mushroom was neatly contrasted by the crunchiness of pak choi. To finish, do make room for the masala chai brûlée. Other plus points include friendly service, a fairly priced set lunch, a dozen cocktails and a short wine list, with bottles from £25.
A well-trodden restaurant site hard by Chelsea’s Cadogan Hall is the setting for this solo outing from ex-Tamarind chef Peter Joseph. Like Tamarind, Kahani (the name means ‘story’ in Urdu) occupies a high-ceiling… Read more
A well-trodden restaurant site hard by Chelsea’s Cadogan Hall is the setting for this solo outing from ex-Tamarind chef Peter Joseph. Like Tamarind, Kahani (the name means ‘story’ in Urdu) occupies a high-ceilinged basement room that has been gilded with luxe features (seductive low lighting, stylish wall coverings, crimson banquettes, armchair seating), while food is prepared in an open-to-view kitchen. The chef made his name with a repertoire of dishes that fused Indian spices and cooking techniques with British ingredients – and Kahani’s menu tells a similar tale. Small plates open the show: seared scallops coated in star anise and served with smoked pepper chutney and shrimp pickle is typical, although veggies might prefer the spiced green-pea cake with cranberry chutney. Bigger dishes focus on the chargrill and tandoor, from venison keema accompanied by a truffle naan to grilled stone bass coated with brown garlic and sun-dried tomato purée. Specials and ‘dawat’ (feasting) dishes are also worth a punt – perhaps a chargrilled sirloin kebab with truffle oil, ground fennel and royal cumin. Apart from a ‘medley of kulfis’, desserts are westernised classics – toffee and date pudding with custard sauce, for example. A full vegan menu, pre-theatre deals and even an Indian ‘weekend roast’ are further inducements for well-heeled Chelsea locals, who are also happy to pay handsomely for exclusive spice-friendly bottles from the ritzy wine list.
Compellingly creative Indian cuisine in tasteful surroundings
The Sanskrit word ‘kutir’ means ‘a small cottage in the middle of nowhere’; in fact, Kutir (the restaurant) occupies a luxe Chelsea townhouse not a million miles from Buckingham Palace – although insp… Read more
The Sanskrit word ‘kutir’ means ‘a small cottage in the middle of nowhere’; in fact, Kutir (the restaurant) occupies a luxe Chelsea townhouse not a million miles from Buckingham Palace – although inspiration comes from India's wildlife lodges ('away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life'). There's no doubting that chef Rohit Ghai's cooking is transportive, with its compellingly creative take on Indian cuisine including ‘expedition’ tasting menus (with optional wine pairings) that can ‘surprise and delight’.
Pressing the doorbell to gain entry adds to the sense of exclusivity, as does the smart decor which references India's stunning natural world. The atmosphere is ‘perfect for special occasions’, helped by staff who can be guaranteed to deliver ‘great service’; there’s also a delightful terrace for summer dining. Traditional ideas get decidedly modern treatment, as in a duck starter that is fruitily embellished with cranberry, kumquat, pickle and chutney, while the tandoor yields such esoteric, smoky delights as paneer tikka with sorrel, lime murabba, tomato salsa and crispy rice or a quail naan with truffle, masala scrambled egg, mince and oil.
Seafood also shows up well when it comes to main courses including wild jumbo prawns with coconut and curry leaf or pan-seared sea bass with jaggery and yoghurt rice. Guinea fowl arrives in a biryani, while desserts might feature a take on crème brûlée involving heritage carrots, reduced milk and orange. The globetrotting wine list has slim pickings below £40, although there’s a decent choice by the glass or carafe. Otherwise, drink Indian lager, IPA or something from the innovative list of Indian-inspired cocktails.
There are some restaurants that surprise you, as with this branch of the five-strong Masala Zone mini chain. After a refit, it looks and feels just right, from its glowing golden lights, rich colours and comfortable chairs to the … Read more
There are some restaurants that surprise you, as with this branch of the five-strong Masala Zone mini chain. After a refit, it looks and feels just right, from its glowing golden lights, rich colours and comfortable chairs to the touches of glamour thrown in for good measure. But we shouldn’t be too surprised – this restaurant is part of a highly regarded group, including Chutney Mary, Veeraswamy and Amaya, owned by Ranjit Mathrani, Namitha and Camellia Panjabi. On offer is a short menu of Indian favourites from across the subcontinent: a comfortingly rich, silky northern-style butter chicken sitting adjacent to a version from Mangalore redolent of chilli and warming spices; a modern-day chicken tikka next to a classic korma; and a Goan prawn curry appearing alongside that northern Indian staple, lamb rogan josh. Expect vegetable curries, biryanis and thalis, too, and the excellent homemade paneer (prepared daily) is not to be missed. In addition, there’s a wide choice of street snacks served as starters, perhaps gently spiced lamb sliders in caramelised onion pao bread and, from Mumbai’s Chowpatty Beach, a superb sprouted lentil bhel (a crispy salad tangy with tamarind); otherwise, choose five or seven small dishes to make a satisfying main or two-course meal. Keen prices and charming service ensure regular full houses, and it’s worth getting into the mood by flirting with one of the spiced-up cocktails. The wine list works well with the food (everything is available by the glass, carafe or bottle).
Creative pan-Indian cuisine that's a cut above the local norm
Consistency is the watchword at this ‘beautiful’ family-run Indian restaurant, and there’s hearty applause for its delicate, precise and creative approach to pan-Indian cuisine. By all means choose a classic jalf… Read more
Consistency is the watchword at this ‘beautiful’ family-run Indian restaurant, and there’s hearty applause for its delicate, precise and creative approach to pan-Indian cuisine. By all means choose a classic jalfrezi, dhansak or korma, but the elegantly presented riches of Montaz are best displayed elsewhere on a contemporary menu that changes with the seasons.
As an opener, you might find samosas filled with slow-cooked diced lamb’s liver and potato or a clever chaat involving crispy Jerusalem artichoke, sweet mint chutney and pomegranate. Regional home-style dishes are cooked low and slow – try the beef Chettinad with grated coconut and Kashmiri chilli marinade or tandoori grilled duck fired with green chilli and achari bhuna sauce. Also check out the Montaz signature dishes – perhaps 12-hour slow-cooked ox cheek with aloo bhurta, wilted spinach and tomato kachumbar or nalli ghost (lamb shank with an onion sauce perfumed with rose petals).
To drink? A gentle Chenin Blanc from the Sula Vineyards in Nashik, Maharashtra is a fine match, though it has to be said a cold Cobra beer hits the spot too. Readers appreciate the restaurant’s lovely vibe and superb service, adding that everyone who dines here is ‘sure to have a full stomach and a smile on their face’.
Boundary-pushing Indian cuisine that pulses with innovation and flavour
There is a genuine feeling of affection radiating from the many readers’ reports we receive for this cutting-edge Indian restaurant. To be sure, it’s an unashamedly smart destination and visitors appreciate the comfort… Read more
There is a genuine feeling of affection radiating from the many readers’ reports we receive for this cutting-edge Indian restaurant. To be sure, it’s an unashamedly smart destination and visitors appreciate the comfortable, softly lit lounge and the dining room’s elegant neutrality as well as the sense of theatre provided by the spectacular open kitchen.
Birmingham-born Aktar Islam has been pursuing his own path here since 2018, his culinary style vigorous and imaginative, a mix of aspirant riffs on familiar Indian recipes and stellar British seasonal produce. Once you’ve snagged a reservation (tables are hard to come by), expect clever textures, thrilling contrasts and exact spicing. From the palate-awakening shot of cucumber, green chilli and apple juice served with snacks such as an ethereal oyster emulsion with perfectly judged chilli broth and coriander oil to petits fours that might include a pistachio-crumbed madeleine straight out of the oven, the chef’s intricately realised multi-course menus pulse with innovation and flavour.
Sublime tandoori sand carrot jumbled with mini lentil pakoras is given added vibrancy with mint and coriander, while other stand-outs range from aloo tuk (pink fir potato with mango and tamarind) to a tantalising slice of tender hogget loin fringed with beautifully flavoured fat and served with its slow-cooked shoulder – made all the more memorable by a subtle hint of heat that lingers gently on the palate. Beyond these anchor points, we were equally delighted by a buttery, flaky just-baked milk bread, and an intriguing ‘After Eight’ chocolate finale involving pine ice cream and mint compôte.
Service appears to have thawed since our last visit; the front of house staff and the chefs who delivered dishes to our table were on the ball and warmly welcoming. Drinks impress too. Cocktails blended to match the cuisine are a particular strength, and the wine list – also carefully tailored to complement the spicing– flies you first-class around the world, with by-the-glass choices from £16.
Avinash Shashidhara honed his craft at Claude Bosi’s Hibiscus (RIP) and the River Café but has gone back to his roots at this comfortably relaxed Indian restaurant on the site of the once-legendary Gaylord curry … Read more
Avinash Shashidhara honed his craft at Claude Bosi’s Hibiscus (RIP) and the River Café but has gone back to his roots at this comfortably relaxed Indian restaurant on the site of the once-legendary Gaylord curry house. Pahli Hill (named after a Mumbai suburb) looks and feels just right, with its glowing lights, fragrant aromas, colourful Indian paintings and woven cane chairs. Limber up with a cocktail or two in the subterranean Bandra Bhai bar before returning upstairs for a menu of regional sharing plates executed with skill, precision and subtlety. Anything from the grill or tandoor is a sound bet, perhaps Cornish monkfish (marinated in mango pickle) with monk's beard, grilled corn and lime or meltingly tender lamb cutlets, spiced with black pepper, cumin and curry leaves – all mollified by a cooling mint raita. Other top calls have included crisp Pondicherry fried squid with pumpkin and Guntur chilli chutney, a gorgeous ‘home-style’ fish curry packed with mussels and halibut, and a dish of Chettinad-style veal shin with black pepper, fennel and chilli, best eaten with some flaky flatbread fresh from the tandoor. Service does its job admirably, and there are plenty of thoughtfully chosen spice-friendly wines to match the food.
Specialising in the culinary traditions of Kerala in southern India, Tharavadu generates a voluminous stream of plaudits from loyal customers. It has the kind of fanbase that not only returns regularly, but has acquired some knowl… Read more
Specialising in the culinary traditions of Kerala in southern India, Tharavadu generates a voluminous stream of plaudits from loyal customers. It has the kind of fanbase that not only returns regularly, but has acquired some knowledge of the distinctive regional specialities the kitchen deals in. The former captain of India's test cricket team, Virat Kohli, is a confirmed supporter, and there ought to be no arguing with an endorsement like that. In the warm embrace of hospitable staff, everybody feels welcome, and the kitchen hits one highlight after another. The mutta roast starter, a preparation of boiled eggs in chilli-hot tomato and onion, served with appam, is technically a breakfast dish, but who's counting? A more conventional way in might be with adipoli chemmeen, grilled prawns alight with their spice marinade, served with lemon chutney. Fans dream of the meen koottan, a classic coastal fish curry replete with Keralan seasonings and kokum mangosteen, best ordered with house paratha. Lamb mappas is a traditional Easter dish of the regional Christian community, incorporating spinach and a complex mix of garam masala and other spices. There's fresh okra in mustard as a side-order, zesty lemon rice to accompany, and cardamom and saffron vermicelli if you've any room left. A decent wine list, from £17.95, should cope with the cooking.
'Punjabi beef keema and marrow bone curry, tandoori spiced monkish served on the bone... hell yeah,' exclaimed one fan. The Chilli Pickle's menu is a tantalising proposition and one that has continued to develop over the year… Read more
'Punjabi beef keema and marrow bone curry, tandoori spiced monkish served on the bone... hell yeah,' exclaimed one fan. The Chilli Pickle's menu is a tantalising proposition and one that has continued to develop over the years; any regulars mourning the absence of an old favourite (take a bow, oxtail Madras), will always find something new to try. Alun and Dawn Sperring's colourful restaurant opposite the city's award-winning Jubilee Library positively rocks when it's busy – which is most of the time. The Subcontinent's multifarious regions provide inspiration – especially for lunchtime 'street eats and small plates', which might take you from Punjabi samosa chaats to BBQ Mangalore king prawns inspired by South Indian traditions. Generous thalis are another lunchtime favourite. The tandoor and sigri grill are at the heart of things, for 'fabulous breads' or whole sea bream, while the surf 'n' turf sizzler is a veritable feast with everything from prawns to Kashmiri best end of lamb. Spicing is forthright, as it should be, but not everything is hot, with curries such as the richly indulgent tandoori butter chicken suiting milder palates. Vegetarians do very well indeed – the clay-pot sabsi curry which comes with an idli dumpling, for example. Many dishes arrive with their own bespoke accompaniments such as vibrant pickles or bread, and sides can be added if required. Don't swerve the dessert menu as maple gulab jamun and suchlike are no afterthought. The wine list is arranged by style with handy advice for food pairing, while cocktails and a decent range of beers should bolster your options.
If you can’t get a decent Ruby in Bradford then it’s a poor reflection on a city that’s home to some of the most venerable ‘curry houses’ in the land. Not that longevity necessarily means quality but … Read more
If you can’t get a decent Ruby in Bradford then it’s a poor reflection on a city that’s home to some of the most venerable ‘curry houses’ in the land. Not that longevity necessarily means quality but there’s usually a reason a restaurant’s clientele stays loyal. The International has retained a cult standing since 1976 and it's still family run. There is little secret to its success: reliably good, freshly cooked, homely food served in a lively, modern but unpretentious setting at exceptionally good-value prices. Plus waiting staff who welcome you in as part of The International family with jolly smiles and service that is speedy, helpful and patient when you’re wavering over what to choose. There are plenty of tried-and-tested old-school favourites such as shami kebabs, samosas, lamb chops shashlik, karahis, biryanis and baltis. Traditional Punjabi desi dishes are also worth exploring – lamb on the bone, paya (lamb's trotters), maghaz (brains) and nihari (baby lamb cooked overnight) – alongside more complex ideas such as chicken nawabi khana and lamb masaledar. The menu indicates the spiciness of each dish but individual preferences and requests are graciously taken into account. Vegetarian choice is exemplary and, given the generous portions, it's quite possible to make a full meal of several ‘sides’ or appetisers – and no one bats an eyelid if you want to take leftovers home. All main dishes are served with a choice of chapatis, rotis, rice or super-fluffy naan. There's no dessert menu, and no alcohol either (though you can bring your own), but there is a selection of mocktails and lassi. The International’s sister restaurant is on Sticker Lane, with seating for 300.
Occupying a former pub in the Barnsbury quarter of Islington, this regional Indian restaurant has become a huge hit with knowledgeable locals. Set up by chef Prince Durairaj (previously at Roti King) and JKS GM Glen Leeson, it off… Read more
Occupying a former pub in the Barnsbury quarter of Islington, this regional Indian restaurant has become a huge hit with knowledgeable locals. Set up by chef Prince Durairaj (previously at Roti King) and JKS GM Glen Leeson, it offers a smartly attired interior featuring dark walls and a weathered bare-wood floor, plus bar counter seating and a bamboo-shielded terrace out front. As the name indicates, the cooking is at least partly oriented to the southern states of India – and it displays plenty of brio. Proceedings might start with fried prawn and curry-leaf varuval, dressed in an assertive spicy paste. Hailing from the northern reaches of the Subcontinent, the huge, puffed chana bhatura (deep-fried bread accompanied by chickpeas and raita) is something of a showstopper. Returning to Tamil Nadu, the Chettinad lamb curry has impressive depth of flavour, with exhilarating spicing and tender meat, or there is an equally zesty Thanjavur chicken dish. Small, candy-like chunks of paneer are the stars of a butter masala. Durairaj's previous experience shows in the superb buttery roti, an accompaniment that should not be missed. To conclude, gulab jamun is unctuously sweet (as expected), but with a firmer, more satisfying texture than is typical. If that seems a bit much after the substantial preceding dishes, look to mango lassi for refreshment. There is some sound drinking on offer too, with cocktails and mocktails boasting Indian flavours – the rebooted Piña Colada with cinnamon, toasted coconut and lime zest is a doozy. An imaginative wine selection opens at £29 (£8 a glass), while water is served in repurposed gin bottles.
Taking its inspiration from the Subcontinent's street-food vendors, Urban Choola offers an inviting mix of curry-house stalwarts and less predictable dishes. Expect anything from rogan josh, creamy Goan fish curry, rich dhal makha… Read more
Taking its inspiration from the Subcontinent's street-food vendors, Urban Choola offers an inviting mix of curry-house stalwarts and less predictable dishes. Expect anything from rogan josh, creamy Goan fish curry, rich dhal makhani and sticky gulab jamun to 'incredibly flavoursome' onion, kale and spinach bhajiyas or nalli gosht (tender osso buco-style lamb shank in a tomato-based sauce) – all delivered with due care and attention to detail. Cocktails complement a short but reasonably priced selection of spice-friendly wines. All in all, good-value food backed by warm, welcoming service.
Like all good things, the UK’s oldest Indian restaurant (estab. 1926) has spawned a string of imitators under the aegis of Ranjit Mathrani, Namitha and Camellia Panjabi (the family behind Chutney Mary, Amaya and the Masala Z… Read more
Like all good things, the UK’s oldest Indian restaurant (estab. 1926) has spawned a string of imitators under the aegis of Ranjit Mathrani, Namitha and Camellia Panjabi (the family behind Chutney Mary, Amaya and the Masala Zone group), but Veeraswamy simply shrugs off the years and carries on as before. A lift whisks you from street level to the first-floor dining room where large windows overlook Regent Street and the warm, cossetting decor nods to the Days of the Raj with vintage memorabilia. Backstage, chefs deftly layer flavour upon flavour in home-style cooking that blends renditions of the classic repertoire with some exceptional house specials. Ideas are lifted from all over India: Malvani prawn curry from the south Konkan coast comes in a rich sauce heady with turmeric, red chilli, coconut and dried kokum flower, while an unusual crab biryani from Bhatkal (in the coastal area of western India) is a superb exploration of the power of aged basmati rice to absorb flavours – here saffron and cinnamon leaf – while letting the delicacy of the fresh crustacean to shine. Street food puts in an appearance too: momos (Tibetan dumplings) are now fully absorbed into Indian street culture – here they are filled with chicken, softly steamed and finished in the tandoor. The sourcing of ingredients is important too. Welsh lamb supplies the tender chops that are grilled with a blend of cloves, fennel and rose petal, and go so well with a fine pineapple curry. And one of the most likeable things on the menu is the excellent homemade paneer prepared using full-fat Jersey milk and served in a light tomato sauce with peppers, garden peas, and cashew nuts. Naan fingers with garlic and sea salt are light and soft, service is friendly and attentive, and wines have been chosen for compatibility with the food.
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