Bombay to Mumbai
Stockport, Greater Manchester
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The fact that this vibrant suburban Indian is in a residential area well away from Stockport’s main drag means that it’s still a proper locals’ restaurant – even though its fame has now spread far beyond SK7. Much of the credit must go to owners Sandeep Gursahani and Donya Bonyadi, who put their heart and soul into the place, treat kids with affection and ensure that standards remain ‘sky-high’. The interior is a riot of colour (posters, framed photographs, murals, bright orange napkins), while ‘incredibly friendly’ staff are always happy to guide diners through the menu. Check out the Indo-Chinese specialities and dishes from Sindh province (Sandeep’s homeland), although there are well-rendered regional winners wherever you look. Regulars know most of the repertoire by heart but there is always the odd surprise, such as a lightly spiced chicken kebab – hunks of juicy meat, each on a hanging skewer, set over smouldering charcoal to give the whole thing a delicious smokiness. Hits are many and varied, from the crispest masala dosa with soothing coconut chutney to the ‘Mumbai sizzler’ (a fiercely hot metal skillet with cubes of paneer, onions, a stuffed pepper, makhani sauce and rice) – perfect with a superb onion and chilli kulcha. Fans of Bollywood movies will recognise the curious names of some dishes: Lai Bhaari, for example, is a fabulous lamb creation with a gorgeous sauce (sweet jaggery, sharp tamarind, earthily savoury peanuts). To finish, try a ‘sizzling brownie’ or the mini white chocolate and cinnamon samosa. Drink Indian beer or one of the Bollywood-themed cocktails.
