Kutir
Chelsea, London
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'A small cottage in the middle of nowhere,' they say, as an interpretation of the Sanskrit word 'kutir', and if that sounds a little contradictory for a luxe Chelsea townhouse not a million miles from Buckingham Palace, the inspiration comes from India's wildlife lodges – 'away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life'. There's no doubting that Rohit Ghai's cooking is transportive, with a compellingly creative take on Indian cuisine, including tasting 'Expedition' menus with optional wine pairings. Pressing the doorbell to gain entry adds to the sense of exclusivity, as does the smart decor which references India's stunning natural world. Traditional ideas get decidedly modern treatment, as in a cauliflower starter that uses techniques such as dehydration alongside more familiar pickling to give the vegetable a full workout. Soft-shell crab is spiced up with Maharashtrian malvani masala and South Indian Tellicherry peppercorns, while, among the main courses, it's green peppercorns that jazz up slow-cooked venison with fennel and yoghurt. Guinea fowl arrives in a biryani, seared sea bass in an aromatic alleppey curry, while desserts might feature a pairing of chocolate and orange with a hint of chilli. The globetrotting wine list opens at £29 (with slim pickings below £40); otherwise drink lager or IPA, but remember that the Indian-inspired cocktails are also well worth checking out.
