Montaz

Newmarket, Suffolk

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There’s deep affection locally for this family-run restaurant, and hearty applause for its 'delicate, precise and creative aporoach' to pan-Indian cuisine. Such adulation isn't really surprising. By all means choose a classic jalfrezi, dhansak or korma, but the elegantly presented riches of Montaz are best displayed elsewhere on a contemporary menu that changes with the seasons. Calamari and samphire pakora, tangled, deep-fried and moreish, comes with a brightening lemongrass mayo, and there are satisfying layers of texture and sweet-sharp flavours in aloo tikki chaat – a classic potato-based snack with yoghurt, pomegranate and sev. Regional home-style dishes are cooked low and slow – try Bangladeshi goat and potato curry, or a Kolkatan dish of tender lamb and butternut squash. Monkfish is a standout main, grilled to perfection in the tandoor, and served with a brass pot of south Indian Nilgiri sauce that’s fragrantly delicious with cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, coriander and mint. To drink? A gentle Chenin Blanc from the Sula Vineyards in Nashik, Maharashtra is a fine match, though it has to be said a cold Cobra beer hits the spot too.