Search the Good Food Guide - Site Settings site

Location

Establishment Type

Cuisine

Price

Clear
New Review
  View all 8 photos
  /8
X

Opheem

West Midlands, Birmingham - Indian - Restaurant - ££££

Boundary-pushing Indian cuisine that pulses with innovation and flavour

Overall Rating: Exceptional

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Exceptional

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Exceptional

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Exceptional

There is a genuine feeling of affection radiating from the many readers’ reports we receive for this cutting-edge Indian restaurant. To be sure, it’s an unashamedly smart destination and visitors appreciate the comfortable, softly lit lounge and the dining room’s elegant neutrality as well as the sense of theatre provided by the spectacular open kitchen. Birmingham-born Aktar Islam has been pursuing his own path here since 2018, his culinary style vigorous and imaginative, a mix of aspirant riffs on familiar Indian recipes and stellar British seasonal produce. Once you’ve snagged a reservation (tables are hard to come by), expect clever textures, thrilling contrasts and exact spicing. From the palate-awakening shot of cucumber, green chilli and apple juice served with snacks such as an ethereal oyster emulsion with perfectly judged chilli broth and coriander oil to petits fours that might include a pistachio-crumbed madeleine straight out of the oven, the chef&...

There is a genuine feeling of affection radiating from the many readers’ reports we receive for this cutting-edge Indian restaurant. To be sure, it’s an unashamedly smart destination and visitors appreciate the comfortable, softly lit lounge and the dining room’s elegant neutrality as well as the sense of theatre provided by the spectacular open kitchen.

Birmingham-born Aktar Islam has been pursuing his own path here since 2018, his culinary style vigorous and imaginative, a mix of aspirant riffs on familiar Indian recipes and stellar British seasonal produce. Once you’ve snagged a reservation (tables are hard to come by), expect clever textures, thrilling contrasts and exact spicing. From the palate-awakening shot of cucumber, green chilli and apple juice served with snacks such as an ethereal oyster emulsion with perfectly judged chilli broth and coriander oil to petits fours that might include a pistachio-crumbed madeleine straight out of the oven, the chef’s intricately realised multi-course menus pulse with innovation and flavour.

Sublime tandoori sand carrot jumbled with mini lentil pakoras is given added vibrancy with mint and coriander, while other stand-outs range from aloo tuk (pink fir potato with mango and tamarind) to a tantalising slice of tender hogget loin fringed with beautifully flavoured fat and served with its slow-cooked shoulder – made all the more memorable by a subtle hint of heat that lingers gently on the palate. Beyond these anchor points, we were equally delighted by a buttery, flaky just-baked milk bread, and an intriguing ‘After Eight’ chocolate finale involving pine ice cream and mint compôte.

Service appears to have thawed since our last visit; the front of house staff and the chefs who delivered dishes to our table were on the ball and warmly welcoming. Drinks impress too. Cocktails blended to match the cuisine are a particular strength, and the wine list – also carefully tailored to complement the spicing– flies you first-class around the world, with by-the-glass choices from £16.

Read full reviewSee less

G Ives

27 August 2024

This was an exceptionally enjoyable experience, with a truly remarkable range of taste and texture combinations that set the restaurant apart even in the realms of fine dining. The bharta (heritage tomatoes with dill and...
This was an exceptionally enjoyable experience, with a truly remarkable range of taste and texture combinations that set the restaurant apart even in the realms of fine dining. The bharta (heritage tomatoes with dill and sheep's milk), the badami khorma (scallop with mooli and apple) and the aloo tuk (pink fir potato with mango and tamarind) were possibly the best takes on those three main ingredients that we have ever enjoyed. The standards were maintained from start to finish with the snacks a...
This was an exceptionally enjoyable experience, with a truly remarkable range of taste and texture combinations that set the restaurant apart even in the realms of fine dining. The bharta (heritage tomatoes with dill and sheep's milk), the badami khorma (scallop with mooli and apple) and the aloo tuk (pink fir potato with mango and tamarind) were possibly the best takes on those three main ingredients that we have ever enjoyed. The standards were maintained from start to finish with the snacks and petit fours, and the wine pairings were imaginative and off the beaten track (especially the yuzu sake). We really could not see why this does not have an Exceptional rating in the Guide.
See MoreSee less

VENUE DETAILS

48 Summer Row
Birmingham
West Midlands
B3 1JJGB

0121 201 3377

View opening times

Make a reservation

OTHER INFORMATION

Private dining room, Wheelchair access, Credit card required

More like this

    •  

       

       

    •  

       

       

    •  

       

       

    Latest articles