Best Indian restaurants in London Published 14 March 2024
Indian cuisine has found a home away from home in the bustling streets and diverse palates of London since the early 19th century. From hearty home-style curries to fragrant fine dining, the city boasts an outstanding selection of Indian restaurants that invite you to taste the vibrant flavours of India right here in the heart of the city.
Part of the MW Eat group (Veeraswamy, Chutney Mary and the Masala Zone mini chain), this classy Belgravia grill restaurant tucked down a passage beside the Pantechnicon has been plying its trade since 2004. Swathes of polished dar… Read more
Part of the MW Eat group (Veeraswamy, Chutney Mary and the Masala Zone mini chain), this classy Belgravia grill restaurant tucked down a passage beside the Pantechnicon has been plying its trade since 2004. Swathes of polished dark wood and seductive lighting create a contemporary, luxurious feel to the generously spaced dining room, which is bookended by a smart bar area and an open-to-view kitchen with tandoor ovens and tawa grills in full view. Several notches above your average curry house, it continues to tease and satisfy, experimenting with herbs, spices and ketchups via a line-up of bijou grazing dishes. Smoky and spicy jumbo-sized ocean prawns, fired in the tandoor are succulent, fleshy and spiked with ginger and tomato, while seared scallops are pearly pucks of similar stature in puddles of fresh coriander and coconut sauce. Oysters, crumbed and grilled, sit plumply in coconut milk (from whole nuts cracked open in the kitchen) with ginger, turmeric and chilli. Meat receives similarly impressive treatment: a marinade of spices and cheese helps to point up a beautifully tender black-pepper chicken tikka (with chilli paneer, date and sesame), while subtle spicing gives heft to a pair of juicy tandoori lamb chops, accompanied by puffed-up naan bread, glistening with ghee and showered in truffle. For a short season, there could also be chicken biryani with wild garlic, cooked in its sealed pot and opened at table to wafts of herby, garlicky steam. A typical meal might kick off with crispy cabbage and noodle salad with nuts, pomegranate and grapes bound by a splash of balsamic vinegar, while desserts are given an Indian twist – perhaps a miniature lime tart sharing the plate with a blueberry compôte infused with anise and a wobbly limoncello jelly. Service, led by a gracious maître d’, is quick and efficient. Contemporary cocktails mingle with a carefully assembled, spice-friendly wine list including almost two dozen selections by the glass (from £11).
A local institution with creative Indian food that's a cut above
‘Serving up exceptional curries since 1985,’ Forest Hill’s beloved Babur just keeps on rolling – and it's still the go-to option for locals wanting prettily plated Indian food that’s a cut above … Read more
‘Serving up exceptional curries since 1985,’ Forest Hill’s beloved Babur just keeps on rolling – and it's still the go-to option for locals wanting prettily plated Indian food that’s a cut above your average high-street curry house. It’s also family-run, ‘rooted in the local community‘ and run by kindly staff who give everyone a ‘genuinely warm welcome’. Over the years, it has become increasingly stylish and distinctive, with a hand-painted kalamkari horoscope in the foyer, low-hanging lights, exposed brickwork and wooden partitions holding elaborate floral displays.
Meanwhile, the kitchen scours the Subcontinent for regional ideas while offering dedicated menus for those with special dietary needs. The full repertoire bypasses kormas and dhansaks in favour of more intricate, modern ideas such as goat tikka with a cumin puff and aubergine mash, steamed shoulder of lamb (marinated for 100 hours) with beetroot rice, or spiced stone bass with chana masala yoghurt and papaya chutney. Vegetable dishes and sides are also full of promise – think garlicky spinach with sweetcorn and mushrooms or thinly sliced fried potatoes dusted with mango powder.
To finish, try the milk sponge cake with saffron gel or the chocolate fondant spiced with cumin.On Sundays, Babur’s ‘help yourself’ family buffet is something of a local institution in its own right. The wine list has been knowledgeably assembled with food in mind, but it would be remiss to ignore the zippy Asian-themed cocktails.
* The restaurant relaunched at the beginning of 2025 with a dramatic new interior design and a new menu. Watch for a review coming soon.*
Ascend a flight of stairs to a spacious, plush, low-ceilinged bar and sumptuously furn… Read more
* The restaurant relaunched at the beginning of 2025 with a dramatic new interior design and a new menu. Watch for a review coming soon.*
Ascend a flight of stairs to a spacious, plush, low-ceilinged bar and sumptuously furnished, low-lit dining room – a fittingly luxe setting for Benares' Berkeley Square location, where commercial rents are among the highest in the world. Here, Sameer Taneja and his kitchen brigade deliver cooking that goes way beyond your standard Indian. There are several menus, each offering different dishes, so making a decision can be somewhat tricky. We settled on a tasting option and enjoyed flashes of inspiration throughout the meal, from a puffy potato fritter served alongside a cone filled with chickpea masala (a tribute to Indian street vendors) which arrived in a pot with a small tree to a hand-dived Scottish scallop, served in its shell, complemented by a superb Malabar sauce infused with coconut and gentle spices. Elsewhere, tender muntjac, given a spicy marinade before being cooked in the tandoor, had its gamey flavour offset by garlicky yoghurt and a chilli chutney. Top-grade produce was again on show in the shape of baby poussin tikka masala – a twist on the popular dish, which was taken to another level of refinement by precise spicing. Staples such as black dhal and laccha paratha are faultless, too. Finish on a high note with a milky rasmalai made more interesting thanks to a raspberry and ginger jelly topping. Overall, our experience left us in no doubt that Benares is currently serving up some fine Indian food. Service is provided by a crack team, sociable and gracious in equal measure. Nudging over 400 bottles, the wine list is varied and diverse, with prices starting at £38 and 30 by the glass (from £9).
The capital's Indian restaurant scene is booming, with openings across the spectrum from street food to high-end cuisine, yet this venture from the JKS group (Sabor, Lyle’s, Hoppers, Gymkhana, Bao etc) is one of the most exc… Read more
The capital's Indian restaurant scene is booming, with openings across the spectrum from street food to high-end cuisine, yet this venture from the JKS group (Sabor, Lyle’s, Hoppers, Gymkhana, Bao etc) is one of the most exciting to date. A short distance from Selfridges, and fronted by an outdoor heated terrace, it’s a bijou space, long, narrow, dimly lit and dominated by an open-plan kitchen. Most seats are at the counter overlooking the chefs at work, though there are some black-leather booths along the opposite wall; the vibe is sociable, aided by a lively soundtrack and a highly charged service team. It’s a great platform for chef Chetan Sharma, who has L’Enclume and Moor Hall in his culinary DNA. He doesn't disappoint, experimenting with ingredients and techniques while fusing different culinary influences into his own individualistic style – although everything is rooted in traditional Indian cooking. The result is an innovative, contemporary menu (two tasters and a carte) based around small plates, chaat (street food) and grilled dishes. Layers of flavour are built up gradually: a raw scallop is provocatively paired with blood orange and Indian lemonade ('a beautiful marriage between the soft, sweet mollusc and the citrusy pop’); tender grilled Lahori chicken comes with a cashew and yoghurt whey. Elsewhere, okra is given a lift with peanuts, sesame and fermented chilli, while 'sides' such as roomali roti or pilau rice cooked in a little chicken broth and topped with deep-fried onions merit a central role. The ‘addictive’ sweet-spicy notes of puffy sweetcorn nuggets served with Kashmiri yellow chilli and corn-husk mayonnaise make a brilliant opening salvo; saffron and white chocolate kulfi 'in the shape of a Magnum ice cream' provides the perfect finale. Wines have been thoughtfully assembled with the food in mind, although prices aren't cheap.
Anyone who has seen the movie The Lunchbox will know about the ‘dabbawalas’ who bike thousands of tiffin tins to office workers across Mumbai and other Indian cities. This casual sibling of Jamavar brings some of that … Read more
Anyone who has seen the movie The Lunchbox will know about the ‘dabbawalas’ who bike thousands of tiffin tins to office workers across Mumbai and other Indian cities. This casual sibling of Jamavar brings some of that homespun subcontinental spice and flavour to central Mayfair, with plenty of (Bombay) bustle and noisy chatter to go with the smoky aromas. Against a slick Art Deco backdrop inspired by the city’s first-class railway carriages, the kitchen doles out dishes full of up-front punch and invigorating freshness, with touches of glamour and panache thrown in for good measure. Some of the best things are the small plates – pao buns stuffed with lamb keema, peppery spiced scrambled eggs with truffle oil and naan, crispy new potatoes with Tulsi chilli chutney. If something more substantial is required, look to the line-up of tandoor-fired dishes, biryanis and curries – from Goan-style stone bass tikka with chilli paste to Malabar lamb or a version of chicken Madras involving coconut milk and ‘southern spices’. Dhals, vegetables and sides will please all palates and persuasions, while dessert might bring masala chai panna cotta with strawberries and figs. On Sunday, the Bombay Bustle 'brunch bundle' is a local hit. To drink, east-west cocktails are quite the thing here, (try the signature G&T made with Nagpur orange bitter and gin distilled in a 100-year-old copper pot); otherwise glug a bottle of Indian beer or something from the global wine list.
London’s original smart Indian, Chutney Mary began life in Chelsea in 1990, where it introduced Brits not only to regional cooking from the seven main cuisines of India but also to the potential of paying top dollar for the … Read more
London’s original smart Indian, Chutney Mary began life in Chelsea in 1990, where it introduced Brits not only to regional cooking from the seven main cuisines of India but also to the potential of paying top dollar for the sort of top-quality food one might find in a five-star hotel on the Subcontinent – then a novel concept in the UK. It’s a measure of how embedded Chutney Mary is in the foodie psyche of the capital that a move to St James’s in 2016 – to better compete with the high-end Mayfair scene – felt entirely natural, though for all the finery of the setting (well-spaced tables, alluring lighting, elegant staff) the joy of eating at Chutney Mary is cooking that, while undoubtedly refined, always remains recognisable. A baked venison samosa arrives as a pastry cone as thin and crisp as a dosa, deep-filled with richly minced meat. Crispy boneless chicken wings are even more inventive, bitesize cubes of juicy flesh wrapped in crisp skin, sweetly glazed with kokum and star anise. But this is also a kitchen that values repeat custom enough not to mess with the classics: fat tandoori wild prawns as chubby as a baby’s fist; butter chicken slow-cooked in a velvety, caramelised tomato sauce ('like luxury Heinz soup'); kid gosht biryani so much more fragrant than the usual lamb version (the result of steaming in saffron under a pastry lid). Vegetarian options – spiced corn ribs that look like coils of yellow tentacles, a glossy lozenge of glazed tandoori paneer – are just as worthy of attention, while distinctly flavoured side dishes such as a saag of seasonal greens may be the best thing about a meal here. Not ready to commit to the cost of a full dinner? Try cocktails and snacks in the sophisticated Pukka Bar.
After a brief sojourn in Covent Garden, Asma Khan’s popular Indian eatery is back where it all started, on the top floor of Carnaby Street’s Kingly Court, next door to the site of the original venue. It's a coveted, li… Read more
After a brief sojourn in Covent Garden, Asma Khan’s popular Indian eatery is back where it all started, on the top floor of Carnaby Street’s Kingly Court, next door to the site of the original venue. It's a coveted, light-filled corner spot, low-key but comfortable, with creamy butter-coloured walls and ceilings, wood floors, marble-topped tables and lots of green plants. There’s a view into the kitchen where an all-female brigade weaves flavours in a style that blends Bengali, Hyderabadi and Kolkatan influences, deftly applying their skills to a hotchpotch of street food, home-style and classic dishes. Dinner is a 'royal thali' fixed-price deal, but there's also plenty to savour on the lunchtime carte – the sort of menu from which you want to order everything. Classic channa chat brings lovely tangy sweet-sour flavours and good textural contrast, there are moreish momos (Tibetan steamed dumplings) in both meat and veggie versions, plus utterly delicious fresh paneer served in a rich, creamy coconut-heavy korma sauce, and a gutsy Bengali-style slow-cooked goat curry served on the bone. Spicing is clean, clear and punchy, while incidentals and sides of, say, crunchy green beans with cumin and dried red chillies, are no slackers. Only a dish of rather watery, insipid tamarind dhal disappointed at our test meal. Service is cheerful, brisk and efficient, while drinks run from lassis, cocktails and Indian beer to a brief international wine list.
To mark its 10th birthday in 2020, the original branch of Dishoom in Covent Garden underwent a dramatic refurb. The decor still pays homage to old Bombay’s Irani cafés (whirring ceiling fans, sepia photographs, vintag… Read more
To mark its 10th birthday in 2020, the original branch of Dishoom in Covent Garden underwent a dramatic refurb. The decor still pays homage to old Bombay’s Irani cafés (whirring ceiling fans, sepia photographs, vintage artefacts, Art Deco trimmings) but the new look now makes reference to the city’s cinematic heritage from Parsi theatre and silent movies to the all-singing, all-dancing glitz of the talkies. Apart from that, it’s business as usual for the hordes who continue to queue and pile in for a lively all-day menu of reimagined Indian favourites. Roll up early for one of the famous bacon naan rolls or a plate of kejriwal (fried eggs on chilli cheese toast) or get sociable later on by sharing a host different dishes. Street-food snacks and grills such as Dishoom’s murgh malai, pineapple tikka and spicy lamb chops line up beside various ‘Ruby Murrays’, slow-cooked biryanis (try the chicken Britannia), black dhal and the house special – ‘auntie’s recipe for the very best masala fish’, griddled in a banana leaf and served with coconut chaas. For afters, dive into a sweet, cooling ‘mess’ of fresh cream, crushed meringue and strawberries perfumed with rose syrup and gulkhand (rose-petal conserve). To drink, there’s a fascinating array of coolers, esoteric beers, wines and cocktails with colonial overtones.
Housed in part of what was the Barkers department store of blessed memory, the Kensington outpost of the Dishoom group is an elegant, Art Deco room with booth seating that could almost be a railway station buffet of yesteryear, co… Read more
Housed in part of what was the Barkers department store of blessed memory, the Kensington outpost of the Dishoom group is an elegant, Art Deco room with booth seating that could almost be a railway station buffet of yesteryear, complete with a giant clock. On Thursday and Friday evenings, a resident jazz band, the Marine Liners, contributes to the nostalgic feel, while the menus perform agile variations on Indian all-day eating.
There are Bombay breakfasts for the rise-and-shiners (try a Parsi omelette or a bacon naan roll), plus small plates for the grazers – lamb samosas, chicken and mango salad, chilli cheese toast, hot potato vada buns – and a repertoire of main dishes given enjoyably florid menu descriptions. Jackfruit biryani, mutton pepper fry, Goan monkfish curry and tandoori lamb chops finished with lime and masala are among the attractions. Vegan menus are of course butter-free, and full of invention, right through to basmati rice pudding with coconut milk, cardamom and cashews.
Alternatively, simply drop by for that old-time Bombay classic – a buttery bun with a cup of spicy chai. First-class cocktails and everyday wines (from £29 a bottle) sit alongside lassis and coolers to wet the whistle.
The grime and dilapidation surrounding King’s Cross is long gone. Though the canal still snakes through, the old warehouses have been re-purposed with eating, drinking and shopping now the business in hand. A former Victoria… Read more
The grime and dilapidation surrounding King’s Cross is long gone. Though the canal still snakes through, the old warehouses have been re-purposed with eating, drinking and shopping now the business in hand. A former Victorian transit shed is home to Dishoom, one of an ever-expanding group of livewire Indian eateries inspired by the classless Irani cafés of old Bombay (now Mumbai). If the history is lost on you, the atmospheric decor and sepia photos on the walls will provide context, while the hubbub of the place is sure to get you in the mood.
The place opens early, and if you're not yet acquainted with their bacon naan rolls or Parsi omelettes, you'll be wondering how you managed to get breakfast so wrong all these years. Bookings are only taken for groups of six or more in the evening, so rock up and be lucky (with some 300 covers, it's a capacious spot). The all-day menu has vivid descriptions of each dish – the gunpowder potatoes are smoky-grilled and flavoured with crushed aromatic seeds and green herbs, for example.
Spicing is firm and fair, and everything from small plates (lamb samosas, pau bhaji) to grills (spicy lamb chops, masala prawns etc) and rich, silky curries hits the mark. There's a fabulous Indian spin on the drinks list too, with the likes of India Gimlet and a 1948 Sour on offer. Wines open at £29, and the generous range of beers includes their own house IPA.
'A slick well-oiled machine that never seems to disappoint,’ observed one reader, which may explain the queues that appear outside this converted Shoreditch warehouse. This is East London, so expect flashes of industrial chi… Read more
'A slick well-oiled machine that never seems to disappoint,’ observed one reader, which may explain the queues that appear outside this converted Shoreditch warehouse. This is East London, so expect flashes of industrial chic and a clamorous buzz to go with Dishoom’s razzmatazz homage to Bombay’s classless Irani cafés. Whirring ceiling fans, vintage artefacts, sepia prints and marble-topped tables create a delightfully idiosyncratic vibe, and there’s also a verandah for alfresco socialising.
On offer is a lively all-day menu of Anglo-Indian sustenance that runs from breakfast onwards. Kick-start the day with kejriwal (fried eggs on chilli cheese toast) or one of the famous naan rolls; alternatively, sort out lunch with a couple small plates (perhaps some ‘delightfully spiced’ lamb samosas or chicken and mango salad) or feast on something more substantial. Various tikkas, tandooris and ‘mouth-wateringly moist’ chicken malai share the billing with slow-cooked biryanis, ‘Ruby Murrays’ and the house special – richly spiced rara gosht (lamb shank and lamb mince vigorously mingled together) with a roomali roti.
To finish, a ‘silky-smooth’ kulfi on a stick fits the bill admirably, unless you fancy indulging in Dishoom's ‘melting-in-the-middle’ chocolate pudding served with a scoop of Kashmiri chilli ice cream. Drinkers are offered a bewildering array of ‘sharbats’, esoteric beers, wines and cocktails including the pink and pretty Bollybellini.
* From 16 September 2024, Empire Empire's restaurant space will be taken over each morning by Moi et Toi – a French bakery serving Gallic patisserie based on British produce.*
In recent months, a number of restaurant o… Read more
* From 16 September 2024, Empire Empire's restaurant space will be taken over each morning by Moi et Toi – a French bakery serving Gallic patisserie based on British produce.*
In recent months, a number of restaurant openings have put the spotlight on Notting Hill as a broadly based foodie destination. Empire Empire, from Harneet Baweja of the Gunpowder group, is one of them. Inspired by India’s 1970s disco scene, it’s a cosy dining space with an old-school look rather than Bollywood-style overkill: think coloured tiled flooring, dark wood furnishings, oval-shaped lighting and white tablecloths. In addition, there's a jukebox and a photo booth, while vintage album covers of Indian disco performers and artwork by leading artists, Jorgensen Chowdhury and Rabin Mondal, adorn the whitewashed walls. Infectious Indian disco tunes provide fun and energy and the whole place is run in a relaxed and amiable manner. The food focuses on northwest India and the Punjab, with nashta (snacks) and starters, kebabs and tikkas, biryanis and curries. We enjoyed moreish deep-fried golden-brown fish and prawn Amritsari pakoras, and the charcoal grill was put to good use for a tender bihari ribeye beef kebab. Flavours are big and rich with spice – witness a gamey sag gosht and a bhindi dopiaza packed with tomatoes and onion. The naan bread, fresh from the oven, is irresistible, while sweet and spongy gulab jamun with ice cream figures among the desserts. To drink, cocktails and beers line up alongside a concise list of natural wines.
Soho holds many delights that may lift a person's mood: since 2021, when it opened on Greek Street, Gunpowder has been one of them. A bold black frontage, softened by greenery, leads into a sleek, intimate room where diners sit at… Read more
Soho holds many delights that may lift a person's mood: since 2021, when it opened on Greek Street, Gunpowder has been one of them. A bold black frontage, softened by greenery, leads into a sleek, intimate room where diners sit at marble-topped tables and Bengali cooking is in the ascendance. Having launched its first outlet in Spitalfields in 2015, Gunpowder knows its craft and delivers multiple small-plate wins, including cracklingly delicious soft-shell crab with Karwari spices or a deep-fried vermicelli ball packed with spicy minced venison. Elsewhere, a gently softened, tangy grilled artichoke heart is the perfect match for the salty and spicy flavours of a red pepper masala. Going big? The Kerala beef sirloin pepper fry, served with a simple onion salad, is a keeper, or try grilled summer pumpkin with Chettinad sauce and toasted coconut. For a livener, add an extra shot of Uttar Pradesh rum alongside the Old Monk bread and butter pudding when it comes to dessert. An Indian theme runs through the dozen cocktails that share the billing with a globetrotting wine list (from £30).
Named after a potent South Indian spice mix, not the black chemical explosive, this cute, cosy and cramped canteen on a backstreet near Spitalfields Market is East London’s take on a traditional Indian roadside dhaba. You ca… Read more
Named after a potent South Indian spice mix, not the black chemical explosive, this cute, cosy and cramped canteen on a backstreet near Spitalfields Market is East London’s take on a traditional Indian roadside dhaba. You can’t book, space is tight, and the decor is bare bones (think exposed brickwork, functional furnishings and no-frills crockery), but the kitchen delivers on its promise. Home-style recipes from the owners’ native Kolkata are reworked and recast as intriguing small plates with plenty of up-front fire and spice – as in egg curry masala, the house chaat with Norfolk potatoes or punchy venison and vermicelli doughnuts (a top call on the succinct menu). Alternatively, if sharing is your preference, go for bigger plates such as steamed sea bass infused with mustard, pork ribs and tamarind kachumbar or spinach with tandoori paneer. For afters, the must-have dessert is the Old Monk rum pudding – a boozy ‘bread and butter’ riff, served with an extra shot of liquor if you want it. Two dozen spice-friendly wines (from £30) match the food; otherwise, plump for a can of thirst-quenching Disco lager or a frisky gin wala Negroni.
Originally inspired by colonial India’s Days of the Raj polo clubs, this thoroughbred from the JKS group (Trishna, Brigadiers, Hoppers etc) is a classy Mayfair package spread over two levels connected by a mirrored staircase… Read more
Originally inspired by colonial India’s Days of the Raj polo clubs, this thoroughbred from the JKS group (Trishna, Brigadiers, Hoppers etc) is a classy Mayfair package spread over two levels connected by a mirrored staircase. Most of the action takes place in the ground-floor dining room and bar, with its richly upholstered leather seating, whirring ceiling fans, old prints and stag’s heads – not forgetting hunting trophies from the Maharaja of Jodhpur. The menu shines the spotlight on grills, game and chops, all given a thrilling contemporary spin to match the gussied-up surroundings – from Goan-style salmon tikka with tomato chutney to guinea fowl pepper fry served with a Malabar paratha or tandoori lamb chops unexpectedly pointed up with walnut chutney. Elsewhere, pork cheek vindaloo and a wild muntjac biryani sound inviting, while fans of rogan josh and chicken butter masala also have plenty to cheer about. For something more esoteric, home in on the assortment of ‘nashta’ small plates, perhaps minced kid goat methi keema with pao bread or duck-egg bhurji scrambled with lobster and served alongside a Malabar paratha. Desserts (meetha) continue the mashed-up crossover theme, as in a take on tiramisu involving rasgulla (a syrupy, sponge-like Asian classic) or a Basmati rice pudding (kheer) spiced with cardamom and accompanied by mango sorbet. The standalone bar dispenses cocktails and reinvented punches, alongside nibbles of Amritsari shrimps or Punjabi samosas with sweet/sour tamarind-spiked 'saunth' chutney. Otherwise, specially brewed 4th Rifles Pale Ale and a compendium of thoughtfully selected wines (including some English sparklers) suit the food admirably.
Spread across two floors on one of the capital's most exclusive streets, this extravagant Mayfair hot spot is a luxurious prospect – think swathes of marble flooring, copper-gold framed mirrors, mother-of-pearl insets, dark … Read more
Spread across two floors on one of the capital's most exclusive streets, this extravagant Mayfair hot spot is a luxurious prospect – think swathes of marble flooring, copper-gold framed mirrors, mother-of-pearl insets, dark wood panelling, alluring lighting and lots of polished leather. Originally created for the Leela Palaces, Hotels & Resorts group in India, Jamavar arrived in London in 2016 and continues to serve up some of the most sophisticated Indian food in town. Underpinned by prime seasonal produce, an indulgent menu criss-crosses the Subcontinent, adding a few modern-day twists and delivering the likes of Narangi prawns with tangy orange-blossom butter, coconut chips and dried lime granules, which got our meal off to a bright start. Also worthy of attention was a tantalising fillet of Malai stone bass, marinated with mace and green cardamom before being cooked in the tandoor, the delicate flavours perfectly matched by an avocado and mint chutney. A rich, gamey curry of kid goat with cinnamon and fresh fenugreek leaves was another standout, while the searing heat of the tandoor worked wonders on some large morels, allowing their umami to mingle with green peas, tomato and mint chutney. Skilled and sensitive craftsmanship continued right to the end when a seasonal rasmalai hit the sweet spot perfectly – the spongy wheat confection served with a creamy syrup flavoured with winter berries and saffron. The wine list is big and international, with the emphasis on European growers; prices reflect the prestigious postcode although, commendably, there are more than 25 selections by the glass too.
In an area of south London crying out for decent places to eat, we have high hopes that this 'really good', all-day Indian newcomer will succeed. Kachori certainly sticks out from the local competition. Found on the ground floor o… Read more
In an area of south London crying out for decent places to eat, we have high hopes that this 'really good', all-day Indian newcomer will succeed. Kachori certainly sticks out from the local competition. Found on the ground floor of a new development by Elephant and Castle tube station, it exudes coolness; the room is big and glossy, scoring highly with its slick bar, black-and-white chequered flooring, dark wood furnishings, oval cut-glass lights and muslin canopies over gold-coloured banquettes. You might think you are in W1 but, even with the growing gentrification of this area, it's unlike anywhere else in SE17. The kitchen is headed by Brinder Narula (ex-Gymkhana, Benares), who has developed a menu inspired by the cooking of northern India – so expect small plates, burgers with an Anglo-Indian twist, biryanis, tandooris and grills, as well as enticing larger plates. We started with the restaurant’s namesake, a huge ball of truffle-infused green-pea kachori (a deep-fried sticky snack), as well as melt-in-your-mouth spice-infused guinea fowl tikka served with 'tempered curd rice'. Spot-on spicing was also a feature of bigger dishes, from shelled jumbo prawns cooked in the tandoor and teamed with avocado raita to a richly favoured goat bhuna with cumin, cloves, pickled ginger and turmeric, while a vegetarian stir-fry of soft portobello mushroom was neatly contrasted by the crunchiness of pak choi. To finish, do make room for the masala chai brûlée. Other plus points include friendly service, a fairly priced set lunch, a dozen cocktails and a short wine list, with bottles from £25.
A well-trodden restaurant site hard by Chelsea’s Cadogan Hall is the setting for this solo outing from ex-Tamarind chef Peter Joseph. Like Tamarind, Kahani (the name means ‘story’ in Urdu) occupies a high-ceiling… Read more
A well-trodden restaurant site hard by Chelsea’s Cadogan Hall is the setting for this solo outing from ex-Tamarind chef Peter Joseph. Like Tamarind, Kahani (the name means ‘story’ in Urdu) occupies a high-ceilinged basement room that has been gilded with luxe features (seductive low lighting, stylish wall coverings, crimson banquettes, armchair seating), while food is prepared in an open-to-view kitchen. The chef made his name with a repertoire of dishes that fused Indian spices and cooking techniques with British ingredients – and Kahani’s menu tells a similar tale. Small plates open the show: seared scallops coated in star anise and served with smoked pepper chutney and shrimp pickle is typical, although veggies might prefer the spiced green-pea cake with cranberry chutney. Bigger dishes focus on the chargrill and tandoor, from venison keema accompanied by a truffle naan to grilled stone bass coated with brown garlic and sun-dried tomato purée. Specials and ‘dawat’ (feasting) dishes are also worth a punt – perhaps a chargrilled sirloin kebab with truffle oil, ground fennel and royal cumin. Apart from a ‘medley of kulfis’, desserts are westernised classics – toffee and date pudding with custard sauce, for example. A full vegan menu, pre-theatre deals and even an Indian ‘weekend roast’ are further inducements for well-heeled Chelsea locals, who are also happy to pay handsomely for exclusive spice-friendly bottles from the ritzy wine list.
There's such variety to regional Indian restaurants in London currently, but this outing from Atul Kochhar sets itself apart by embracing the lesser-known cuisines of the Subcontinent's north-eastern provinces. Spread over two flo… Read more
There's such variety to regional Indian restaurants in London currently, but this outing from Atul Kochhar sets itself apart by embracing the lesser-known cuisines of the Subcontinent's north-eastern provinces. Spread over two floors, Kanishka is relaxed and elegant, all soft-blue leather banquettes, grey leather chairs and white linen-clad tables offset by a stylish bar and a cool jazz soundtrack. As for the food, the pin-sharp contemporary output includes a delicious chicken tikka masala pie scented with cumin, featuring golden-brown puff pastry and accompanied by a compôte of mixed berries. Elsewhere, Welsh goat is used to good effect in a rich and spicy rogan josh, while first-class vegetarian dishes reinforce the kitchen's creative streak. Look out for steamed and tossed beetroot-filled momos (dumplings) served with a tangy beetroot pickle and a delicately spiced beetroot purée, or grilled paneer with tenderstem broccoli and a creamy, coconutty malai jhol topped with a drizzle of chilli oil and pomegranate seeds. To accompany, the cheese and chilli naan is simply moreish. Cross-cultural desserts range from a chocolate délice with Guanaja chocolate and milk ice cream to a beautifully crafted vanilla and rhubarb panna cotta with rhubarb compôte and carrot-halwa ice cream. All this comes at a price, although the set menu is good value. Service is well-meaning and pleasant but not as slick as many of its peers. To drink, there are bespoke cocktails and wines that have been carefully selected to match the food, with plenty of choice by the glass.
Compellingly creative Indian cuisine in tasteful surroundings
The Sanskrit word ‘kutir’ means ‘a small cottage in the middle of nowhere’; in fact, Kutir (the restaurant) occupies a luxe Chelsea townhouse not a million miles from Buckingham Palace – although insp… Read more
The Sanskrit word ‘kutir’ means ‘a small cottage in the middle of nowhere’; in fact, Kutir (the restaurant) occupies a luxe Chelsea townhouse not a million miles from Buckingham Palace – although inspiration comes from India's wildlife lodges ('away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life'). There's no doubting that chef Rohit Ghai's cooking is transportive, with its compellingly creative take on Indian cuisine including ‘expedition’ tasting menus (with optional wine pairings) that can ‘surprise and delight’.
Pressing the doorbell to gain entry adds to the sense of exclusivity, as does the smart decor which references India's stunning natural world. The atmosphere is ‘perfect for special occasions’, helped by staff who can be guaranteed to deliver ‘great service’; there’s also a delightful terrace for summer dining. Traditional ideas get decidedly modern treatment, as in a duck starter that is fruitily embellished with cranberry, kumquat, pickle and chutney, while the tandoor yields such esoteric, smoky delights as paneer tikka with sorrel, lime murabba, tomato salsa and crispy rice or a quail naan with truffle, masala scrambled egg, mince and oil.
Seafood also shows up well when it comes to main courses including wild jumbo prawns with coconut and curry leaf or pan-seared sea bass with jaggery and yoghurt rice. Guinea fowl arrives in a biryani, while desserts might feature a take on crème brûlée involving heritage carrots, reduced milk and orange. The globetrotting wine list has slim pickings below £40, although there’s a decent choice by the glass or carafe. Otherwise, drink Indian lager, IPA or something from the innovative list of Indian-inspired cocktails.
Affordable Indian favourites in grand, glittering surrounds
There are a number of contenders for London’s best-looking dining room, but the old Criterion (established in 1873) must come very near the top of the list. Now fully restored after years in the doldrums, the interior pays h… Read more
There are a number of contenders for London’s best-looking dining room, but the old Criterion (established in 1873) must come very near the top of the list. Now fully restored after years in the doldrums, the interior pays homage to the Parisian-style grand brasserie, with extravagant decoration in the form of a stunning gold mosaic ceiling, marble walls studded with semi-precious stones, and an impressive, raised stage-like private dining area to the rear. However, as the lamps and artefacts indicate, culinary inspiration comes from India – this 180-seater is now the capital’s fourth Masala Zone, that highly regarded group from the family behind some of London’s best upmarket Indian restaurants (Chutney Mary, Veeraswamy and Amaya).
The joy of eating at any Masala Zone is that each kitchen dives straight into well-loved traditional specialities in ways that make them seem full of unexplored potential. A broad selection of small plates and snacks kicks things off, perhaps a moreish 'onion flower' bhaji or lamb sliders served in home-baked caramelised onion pao bread. Follow with a deliciously fragrant Alleppey prawn curry lifted by a blend of freshly stone-ground spices and mellowed with coconut, or a fiery chicken dish (from the southwestern city of Mangalore) balanced with coconut milk and lime. They serve an excellent butter chicken, too. The paneer, made fresh daily, is not to missed, whether makhanwalla (a rich, caramelised tomato curry) or tikka (marinated in yoghurt, fenugreek leaves and yellow chilli).
Biryanis are equally worthy of attention, as are the all-in-one thalis (a perfect budget option if you're eating solo). Breakfast and afternoon ‘high chai’ are also worth knowing about. Prices are kind, staff are charming, and the mayhem of Piccadilly Circus seems a world away. The Masala Zone group is also famed for its ‘snappy’ cocktails and well-chosen, food-friendly wines.
There are some restaurants that surprise you, as with this branch of the five-strong Masala Zone mini chain. After a refit, it looks and feels just right, from its glowing golden lights, rich colours and comfortable chairs to the … Read more
There are some restaurants that surprise you, as with this branch of the five-strong Masala Zone mini chain. After a refit, it looks and feels just right, from its glowing golden lights, rich colours and comfortable chairs to the touches of glamour thrown in for good measure. But we shouldn’t be too surprised – this restaurant is part of a highly regarded group, including Chutney Mary, Veeraswamy and Amaya, owned by Ranjit Mathrani, Namitha and Camellia Panjabi. On offer is a short menu of Indian favourites from across the subcontinent: a comfortingly rich, silky northern-style butter chicken sitting adjacent to a version from Mangalore redolent of chilli and warming spices; a modern-day chicken tikka next to a classic korma; and a Goan prawn curry appearing alongside that northern Indian staple, lamb rogan josh. Expect vegetable curries, biryanis and thalis, too, and the excellent homemade paneer (prepared daily) is not to be missed. In addition, there’s a wide choice of street snacks served as starters, perhaps gently spiced lamb sliders in caramelised onion pao bread and, from Mumbai’s Chowpatty Beach, a superb sprouted lentil bhel (a crispy salad tangy with tamarind); otherwise, choose five or seven small dishes to make a satisfying main or two-course meal. Keen prices and charming service ensure regular full houses, and it’s worth getting into the mood by flirting with one of the spiced-up cocktails. The wine list works well with the food (everything is available by the glass, carafe or bottle).
Avinash Shashidhara honed his craft at Claude Bosi’s Hibiscus (RIP) and the River Café but has gone back to his roots at this comfortably relaxed Indian restaurant on the site of the once-legendary Gaylord curry … Read more
Avinash Shashidhara honed his craft at Claude Bosi’s Hibiscus (RIP) and the River Café but has gone back to his roots at this comfortably relaxed Indian restaurant on the site of the once-legendary Gaylord curry house. Pahli Hill (named after a Mumbai suburb) looks and feels just right, with its glowing lights, fragrant aromas, colourful Indian paintings and woven cane chairs. Limber up with a cocktail or two in the subterranean Bandra Bhai bar before returning upstairs for a menu of regional sharing plates executed with skill, precision and subtlety. Anything from the grill or tandoor is a sound bet, perhaps Cornish monkfish (marinated in mango pickle) with monk's beard, grilled corn and lime or meltingly tender lamb cutlets, spiced with black pepper, cumin and curry leaves – all mollified by a cooling mint raita. Other top calls have included crisp Pondicherry fried squid with pumpkin and Guntur chilli chutney, a gorgeous ‘home-style’ fish curry packed with mussels and halibut, and a dish of Chettinad-style veal shin with black pepper, fennel and chilli, best eaten with some flaky flatbread fresh from the tandoor. Service does its job admirably, and there are plenty of thoughtfully chosen spice-friendly wines to match the food.
Occupying a former pub in the Barnsbury quarter of Islington, this regional Indian restaurant has become a huge hit with knowledgeable locals. Set up by chef Prince Durairaj (previously at Roti King) and JKS GM Glen Leeson, it off… Read more
Occupying a former pub in the Barnsbury quarter of Islington, this regional Indian restaurant has become a huge hit with knowledgeable locals. Set up by chef Prince Durairaj (previously at Roti King) and JKS GM Glen Leeson, it offers a smartly attired interior featuring dark walls and a weathered bare-wood floor, plus bar counter seating and a bamboo-shielded terrace out front. As the name indicates, the cooking is at least partly oriented to the southern states of India – and it displays plenty of brio. Proceedings might start with fried prawn and curry-leaf varuval, dressed in an assertive spicy paste. Hailing from the northern reaches of the Subcontinent, the huge, puffed chana bhatura (deep-fried bread accompanied by chickpeas and raita) is something of a showstopper. Returning to Tamil Nadu, the Chettinad lamb curry has impressive depth of flavour, with exhilarating spicing and tender meat, or there is an equally zesty Thanjavur chicken dish. Small, candy-like chunks of paneer are the stars of a butter masala. Durairaj's previous experience shows in the superb buttery roti, an accompaniment that should not be missed. To conclude, gulab jamun is unctuously sweet (as expected), but with a firmer, more satisfying texture than is typical. If that seems a bit much after the substantial preceding dishes, look to mango lassi for refreshment. There is some sound drinking on offer too, with cocktails and mocktails boasting Indian flavours – the rebooted Piña Colada with cinnamon, toasted coconut and lime zest is a doozy. An imaginative wine selection opens at £29 (£8 a glass), while water is served in repurposed gin bottles.
When dream-team siblings Karam and Sunaina Sethi opened Trishna in 2008, no one guessed that it was the start of something big; fast-forward 15 years, and the family’s JKS Restaurants portfolio now includes some of the hotte… Read more
When dream-team siblings Karam and Sunaina Sethi opened Trishna in 2008, no one guessed that it was the start of something big; fast-forward 15 years, and the family’s JKS Restaurants portfolio now includes some of the hottest tickets in town (Gymkhana, Bao, Hoppers et al). Compared to some of its funkier new openings, this Marylebone original feels distinctly restrained with its whitewashed brickwork, Air India posters, bare café-style tables and jazzy soundtrack – although the food is defined by its assertive flavours and the sheer variety of its spicing (from ‘sweet and subtle to rich, complex and powerful’). The culinary focus is on India’s south-west coastal provinces – Cochin, Kerala and Mangalore – so expect plenty of fresh-tasting seafood in different regional guises. Trishna classics such as soft-shell crab enlivened with green chilli and tomato chutney, salmon tikka with samphire chaat or nariyal scallops (with vermicelli upma and hits of coconut) are joined by equally forthright meat and veggie options. Quail pepper fry is never off the menu, likewise duck seekh kebabs with pineapple chutney and Hyderabadi subzi kofta (dumpling balls of paneer, cashews and almonds gilded with saffron). All the add-ons are up to the mark, while desserts take an east/west trip from strawberry and fennel mousse to smoked mango and cardamom kheer (rice pudding). Service 'can be leisurely,' notes a fan, 'but it's always attentive, charming and helpful'. To match the food, sommelier/co-owner Sunaina Sethi has assembled an intelligent spice-tolerant wine list loaded with classy pairings and ample drinking by the glass or carafe. Otherwise, browse and sip your way through Trishna’s heady ‘tea library’.
Like all good things, the UK’s oldest Indian restaurant (estab. 1926) has spawned a string of imitators under the aegis of Ranjit Mathrani, Namitha and Camellia Panjabi (the family behind Chutney Mary, Amaya and the Masala Z… Read more
Like all good things, the UK’s oldest Indian restaurant (estab. 1926) has spawned a string of imitators under the aegis of Ranjit Mathrani, Namitha and Camellia Panjabi (the family behind Chutney Mary, Amaya and the Masala Zone group), but Veeraswamy simply shrugs off the years and carries on as before. A lift whisks you from street level to the first-floor dining room where large windows overlook Regent Street and the warm, cossetting decor nods to the Days of the Raj with vintage memorabilia. Backstage, chefs deftly layer flavour upon flavour in home-style cooking that blends renditions of the classic repertoire with some exceptional house specials. Ideas are lifted from all over India: Malvani prawn curry from the south Konkan coast comes in a rich sauce heady with turmeric, red chilli, coconut and dried kokum flower, while an unusual crab biryani from Bhatkal (in the coastal area of western India) is a superb exploration of the power of aged basmati rice to absorb flavours – here saffron and cinnamon leaf – while letting the delicacy of the fresh crustacean to shine. Street food puts in an appearance too: momos (Tibetan dumplings) are now fully absorbed into Indian street culture – here they are filled with chicken, softly steamed and finished in the tandoor. The sourcing of ingredients is important too. Welsh lamb supplies the tender chops that are grilled with a blend of cloves, fennel and rose petal, and go so well with a fine pineapple curry. And one of the most likeable things on the menu is the excellent homemade paneer prepared using full-fat Jersey milk and served in a light tomato sauce with peppers, garden peas, and cashew nuts. Naan fingers with garlic and sea salt are light and soft, service is friendly and attentive, and wines have been chosen for compatibility with the food.
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