Gunpowder Soho
Soho, London
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Soho holds many delights that may lift a person's mood: since 2021, when it opened on Greek Street, Gunpowder has been one of them. A bold black frontage, softened by greenery, leads into a sleek, intimate room where diners sit at marble-topped tables and Bengali cooking is in the ascendance. Having launched its first outlet in Spitalfields in 2015, Gunpowder knows its craft and delivers multiple small-plate wins, including cracklingly delicious soft-shell crab with Karwari spices or a deep-fried vermicelli ball packed with spicy minced venison. Elsewhere, a gently softened, tangy grilled artichoke heart is the perfect match for the salty and spicy flavours of a red pepper masala. Going big? The Kerala beef sirloin pepper fry, served with a simple onion salad, is a keeper, or try grilled summer pumpkin with Chettinad sauce and toasted coconut. For a livener, add an extra shot of Uttar Pradesh rum alongside the Old Monk bread and butter pudding when it comes to dessert. An Indian theme runs through the dozen cocktails that share the billing with a globetrotting wine list (from £30).
