Best restaurants in Brighton & Hove Published 14 February 2025
Brighton and Hove is a city bursting with character, and its food scene is no different, offering an exciting mix of creativity, diversity, and quality. The best restaurants in Brighton reflect the city’s vibrant personality, with menus that range from innovative, cutting-edge cuisine to comforting dishes inspired by timeless traditions. With a strong emphasis on fresh, seasonal ingredients, many establishments draw on the coastal location to deliver flavours that are as bold and dynamic as the city itself. The best restaurants in Brighton aren’t just about great food—they provide an experience that embodies the city’s eclectic charm and welcoming atmosphere. This guide is your key to exploring the unique culinary landscape that makes Brighton a true destination for food lovers.
If you want the full experience at this intimate, modern 'tasting menu' restaurant tucked away in Brighton's famous Lanes, make sure you ask for a seat at the counter where you can watch the chefs at work. Elbow space might be at … Read more
If you want the full experience at this intimate, modern 'tasting menu' restaurant tucked away in Brighton's famous Lanes, make sure you ask for a seat at the counter where you can watch the chefs at work. Elbow space might be at a premium but at least you won't feel left out of the action; alternatively, you may seated at one of the tables in the adjacent dining area. Eating here is 'always a memorable experience' and our meal was no exception, from the the opening flurry of ‘snacks’ that included a beautifully made and intensely flavoured cep tartlet to a satisfyingly rich final dessert of dark Guanaja chocolate and olive-oil ganache with blood orange sorbet. There were plenty of modish Asian influences along the way, with prawn wonton served in a sesame-flavoured dashi broth and the restaurant’s signature slow-cooked egg yolk. Foraged elements were present and correct, sea kale perhaps, accompanying a single perfectly seared scallop and served with a bright, refreshing lemongrass sauce and grapes. Although there's just one nine-course tasting menu (with vegetarian, vegan and pescatarian versions), there is an either/or choice for the last two savoury courses. These slightly larger ‘mains’ add a pleasing crescendo to an experience that can sometimes be lacking in tasting menu-style dining. The front-of-house team are charming and friendly. The short wine list of some 22 bins, chosen by locally based wine expert and TV presenter Tom Surgey, puts the emphasis on small producers and some lesser-known grape varieties; those in search of the reassuringly familiar may be disappointed.
From the kitchens of London’s Oxo Tower via Tokyo to a casual backstreet haunt not far from Brighton beach is quite a journey, but locals can thank chef David Miney for bringing his take on a Japanese izakaya and the marvels… Read more
From the kitchens of London’s Oxo Tower via Tokyo to a casual backstreet haunt not far from Brighton beach is quite a journey, but locals can thank chef David Miney for bringing his take on a Japanese izakaya and the marvels of yakitori skewers to the South Coast. With its pumping soundtrack, close-packed tables and ringside perches at the counter overlooking the open grill, this 'unassumingly cool' venue cranks up the energy levels in the true spirit of an authentic Asian drinking den. The menu changes every week, specials are written up each day, and everything is designed for sharing. Skewers fresh from the binchotan (white charcoal) grill could be threaded with anything from various chicken body parts (thigh, gizzards, liver, heart and 'amazing' skin) to quail’s eggs, asparagus with bacon or shiitake mushrooms. Also look for non-skewered alternatives such as seaweed salad, charred sweet potato, and tofu with kimchi. Drinks include all the usual Japanese staples (sake, whisky, cold beer), plus cocktails and some international wines.
The waiting staff would doubtless be rich if they had a pound for every customer who joked on seeing the menu: 'I'll have one of everything.' With it's compelling combinations and alluring flavours, choosing is a challenging task;… Read more
The waiting staff would doubtless be rich if they had a pound for every customer who joked on seeing the menu: 'I'll have one of everything.' With it's compelling combinations and alluring flavours, choosing is a challenging task; what to leave out? The sharing plate ethos helps maximise options, with Middle Eastern and European ideas monopolising the output from the kitchen with its centrepiece wood-fired oven. From the man behind the Coal Shed and the Salt Room, Burnt Orange has become the city's hot spot since opening in 2021 on Middle Street beside one of the narrow 'twitten' passageways. There is a small patio with an awning if you feel the need but indoors is where the joyous energy of the place is best appreciated. The glistening flatbreads come straight out the flames and onto your table and are essential for soaking up the flavours (and adding carbs if you're hungry). From the flames comes what must surely be the signature dish: mangalitza pork belly with a spiced coffee rub and some pickled fennel, while the ubiquitous (in hipster circles) charred hispi cabbage is spiced up with harissa. Among the starter plates, a splendid slab of Sussex halloumi is drizzled with spiced fig honey (the delivery of courses occurs at a sensible pace), and seafood figures in spiced calamari with a preserved lemon aïoli, or sea bream with basil yoghurt and mango dressing. Just a couple of dessert options might include Arabic coffee torte. Cocktails are no afterthought here: a dozen zingers including the Burnt Orange Martini made with Salcombe gin and Lillet Blanc vermouth from Bordeaux. The wine list opens at £22.
‘I love the authentic Italian flavours and the creative dishes made with fresh, quality ingredients,’ is just one ringing endorsement for this ‘small and super-stylish’ eatery. Counter seats bring you up cl… Read more
‘I love the authentic Italian flavours and the creative dishes made with fresh, quality ingredients,’ is just one ringing endorsement for this ‘small and super-stylish’ eatery. Counter seats bring you up close to the action, with enthusiastic staff buzzing about, slicing hams and pouring drinks while the chefs can be seen cooking pasta al dente and roasting prime cuts of meat and fish. Alternatively, there are some high tables at the back if you want something less frenetic.
Light and aromatic rosemary focaccia delivers the goods, and you should be prepared to share the seasonal small plates because that’s the deal here. Crisp, moreish arancini are a fixture (Venetian duck ragù with parsley and garlic emulsion, say), salads are fresh and zingy, and handmade pastas could range from rigatoni with flaked chalk stream trout, mussels, kale and spiced sofrito to tortelli of sweet potato with truffle sauce, amaretti and sage. If you fancy something meatier, how about Sussex beef rump and a rotolo of slow-cooked shin with Gorgonzola, spinach and roasted shallot, all in a rich beef sauce.
To finish, tiramisu or a Piedmontese chocolate, caramel and amaretti pudding compete with a trio of Italian cheeses. The five-course ‘chef's menu’ is an opportunity to take a more traditional path through the repertoire (with separate gluten-free and vegan options), all offered with optional Italian wine flights drawn from an impressive, knowledgeably assembled list.
A class act and one of Brighton's top dining experiences
Located in the basement of Drakes Hotel, this neutrally attired dining room does the job without stirring high emotions – though the soundtrack might well push the limits of those not revived by memories of holidays in Ibiza… Read more
Located in the basement of Drakes Hotel, this neutrally attired dining room does the job without stirring high emotions – though the soundtrack might well push the limits of those not revived by memories of holidays in Ibiza. That said, readers concur that Dilsk is one of Brighton's foremost dining experiences. Tom Stephens has a CV packed with high-profile mentors, including Tom Kerridge and Simon Rogan, and delivers his version of modern British dining via a trio of menus – a three-course lunch (a great entry point), and a six- or ten-course taster.
The full repertoire kicks off with snacks, the pick being a smoked mackerel pâté with perry jelly and a squid-ink tuile. Next up, the signature lightly poached oyster with trout roe, pickled radish and a custard of dilsk (another name for dulse, the slippery red seaweed) – a dish that positively dazzles with colour and maritime flavours. Bread is a course in itself: a laminated brioche/croissant hybrid with a rich, potent butter, garlic and crispy black cabbage.
This is food in which sauces play off against impressive core ingredients sourced from the local area: a turnip dashi creation is a joyous umami hit when served with smoked eel and Brighton salami; a combo of squash, caviar and bone marrow elevates a piece of BBQ monkfish; and caramelised cream with ceps and truffle (the accompaniment to pink partridge breast) is simply ‘divine’.
Three dessert courses come with the full menu, the standout being a confection involving 71% Nicaraguan chocolate and rapeseed oil smoked over Earl Grey tea and barley miso – complex, comforting and delicious. Service is informed, dedicated and unobtrusive. The wine list is arranged by style, with some organic offerings but slim pickings under £35 a bottle.
A joint venture by local chefs Dave Marrow (Terre à Terre) and Isaac Bartlett Copeland (Isaac At), Embers is deliciously warm and glowing, the air full of the sweet scent of smouldering birch and ash – thanks to the f… Read more
A joint venture by local chefs Dave Marrow (Terre à Terre) and Isaac Bartlett Copeland (Isaac At), Embers is deliciously warm and glowing, the air full of the sweet scent of smouldering birch and ash – thanks to the fire cage in the centrepiece kitchen. Charcoal walls and chunky wood tables complement the cooking-over-fire vibe, while a seat at the counter is the best place to view the action. The menu kicks off with a handful of nibbles including sourdough bread (smoky and warm from a brief toasting), which is almost a meal in itself when teamed with beefy whipped 'dripping butter'. From the selection of small plates, we enjoyed three excellent combos: skillet-roasted potatoes and pickled jalapeños smothered in mole and chimichurri mayonnaise; tender roasted chicken leg with a deliciously charred and caramelised BBQ honey coating and a slick of roasted garlic aïoli; and wood-fired leeks with buttery marrowfat pea purée, crunchy garlic crumb and kale – the latter rather chewy, the only off-note in the dish. Our verdict? Generous, heartfelt, please-all cooking, characterised by big flavours and lots of delicious fat, with wonderful, fragrant smokiness running through each dish. In addition, there are centrepiece plates to feed two or more, say venison rump with beetroot ketchup and pickled blackberries. Our standout dessert was a supersized take on a Rolo, combining a bittersweet, velvety and spoonable dark chocolate exterior with a smooth caramel filling, all topped with milk ice cream and a crunchy milk chocolate crumb. The wine list reflects the freshness of the entire offering, with plenty of interesting sips including a decent showing from English vineyards. Terrific cocktails too.
At what point does the fact that Steven Edwards is a MasterChef: The Professionals winner (2013) cease to be the first thing one mentions? Not quite yet it seems. Etch is now well established as one of Brighton and Hove's high fly… Read more
At what point does the fact that Steven Edwards is a MasterChef: TheProfessionals winner (2013) cease to be the first thing one mentions? Not quite yet it seems. Etch is now well established as one of Brighton and Hove's high flyers (Hove, actually). Refurbishment in 2021 expanded the dining room and added a basement bar – and with its richly monochrome, Scandi-style minimalism, it feels every inch the contemporary venue. The kitchen remains open to the dining room, the chefs bringing some plates to the table in pristine whites. The fixed-price format deals in at five courses, raises you to seven, and sees you at nine, with a vegetarian version worthy of serious attention. There's indulgence from the off with a couple of amuse-bouches – mushroom truffle doughnut, maybe – and then the chef's Marmite brioche with seaweed butter, before your chosen number of courses (notified in advance; the booking process is...demanding). Jersey Royal and wild garlic soup is just perfect for a spring day, its flavours and textures making the menu's description as 'soup of the day' charmingly modest. Sea trout sees the centrepiece cured fish partnered with cockles (battered, ketchuped and ice creamed), while the starring feature of a dish of Dorset lamb loin is the slow-cooked tongue and dabs of Caesar salad emulsion. Regulars know all about the dippy egg course – 'still fun, and the soldiers cooked in duck fat were even better than I remembered'. Another canny combination sees blood orange and beetroot combine in a dessert as if blood brothers, forever bound together with the help of a white chocolate tuile and butterfly sorrel leaf. The wine list is arranged from highest price to lowest, so be warned your beating heart. The English sparkling wine section covers Sussex and Kent, with a map showing how blessed is the south east of England.
The intersection of Fourth Avenue and Church Road provides the distinctly American-sounding name of this popular wine shop and eatery opposite the old Hove Town Hall. With its bottle-stacked shelves and counter seating, the whole … Read more
The intersection of Fourth Avenue and Church Road provides the distinctly American-sounding name of this popular wine shop and eatery opposite the old Hove Town Hall. With its bottle-stacked shelves and counter seating, the whole place feels assiduously dedicated to the business of serious (but fun) eating and drinking, and while the ethos of mixing and matching plates has effectively evolved backwards (as elsewhere) into the considerably more antiquated mode of a smaller plate followed by a larger one, the net is still flung wide for inspiration. Pickling and preserving are enthusiastically favoured. Cured chalkstream trout with saffron-pickled endive in blackcurrant-leaf oil might compete with aubergine miso in katsu with pickled carrots or prosciutto di Parma with flat peach panzanella and black garlic glaze. Among the larger possibilities may be rump of Herdwick hogget with goat's curd in lamb and basil dressing, or sea bass offset with a torrent of assertive flavours from seaweed gnocchi, sorrel and fermented blueberries. And with a whole world of appetising nibbles ranging from whipped cod's roe to houmous with preserved lemon, zaatar and lavosh crackers, no appetite need go unsatiated. Just make sure to leave room for the banana parfait, fennel-pollen panna cotta or affogato with a tot of Pedro Ximénez. If you enjoyed the glass or two of wine you tried with the food, buy a bottle to take home. The stylistically arranged list has been chosen with an authoritative nose and palate. Small glasses start at £7, half-bottle measures at £18.
Drinks List Of The Year 2024
After two decades cooking in such respected Brighton restaurants as the Coal Shed, the Salt Room and Gingerman, Dave Mothersill has set out his own stall. And what a stall it is. Located close to the … Read more
After two decades cooking in such respected Brighton restaurants as the Coal Shed, the Salt Room and Gingerman, Dave Mothersill has set out his own stall. And what a stall it is. Located close to the Royal Pavilion, this contemporary eatery – mirrors, modernist tables and chairs, parquet floors – delivers cooking that soars far beyond standard bistro fare. Mothersill draws on childhood memories, family and his own travels to create epic set menus peppered with dishes ranging from a jewel-like raw Orkney scallop with ponzu and yuzu, preserved rhubarb, horseradish/elderflower sorbet and peppery marigold leaves to a classy, marshmallow-soft Selim pepper meringue with rhubarb, buckwheat crumble and rhubarb granita. Each course yields vivid flavours, on-point cooking and artful presentation, the ingredients unsurpassed – from line-caught sea bass (cooked just so) with fat asparagus, courgette, pea purée and a sauce of smoked sea bass bones, smoked butter, miso and mirin to pink, tender salt-aged Devon duck brushed with burnt honey and teamed with morels and a sauce made with duck offcuts, hazelnut and Kampot pepper. Seasonality is everything. A springtime creation of confit Jersey Royals, salted gooseberries, straw potato fries, smoked eel and Exmoor caviar, for example, delivers a comforting, clever and unpredictable take on the humble spud. Even the simplest sounding dishes exceed expectations – a feather-light, tear-and-share brown butter-glazed Parker House roll, perhaps, served with wild-garlic butter, or a velvety duck liver parfait topped with sweet, citrussy yuzu. This is cooking that rarely puts a foot wrong – top-grade dining without the stuffiness and pomp. The whole place is relaxed, vibey and cool, driven by staff who know the full story of every dish, from sourcing to plate. An international wine list matches the sophistication of the food, with some excellent local and natural pours catching the eye.
East African cooking meets Gujarati cuisine – there's no other menu in Brighton quite like it. At this casual, intimate neighbourhood spot, expect closely set tables, warm, personal service and some seriously delicious,… Read more
East African cooking meets Gujarati cuisine – there's no other menu in Brighton quite like it. At this casual, intimate neighbourhood spot, expect closely set tables, warm, personal service and some seriously delicious, gently spicy food that's well worth the short journey to the northern edge of the city. The menu changes regularly but look out for kalio (a rich lamb curry with crispy saffron potatoes) and the deep-fried cauliflower with crisp batter, chilli and lemon sauce – a must-order. The urban pavement terrace is a popular spot when the sun shines.
Big-hitting local eatery famed for its thrilling, globally inspired food
Hold on to your palate, it's in for quite a ride. An eclectic menu of small plates might not sound like the most original idea for a modern casual restaurant (especially one in Brighton, where the formula has spread like wildfire)… Read more
Hold on to your palate, it's in for quite a ride. An eclectic menu of small plates might not sound like the most original idea for a modern casual restaurant (especially one in Brighton, where the formula has spread like wildfire) but no one does it quite like Med. Surprising but wholly successful combinations such as taramasalata served with chunky prawn toast or grilled mackerel with green strawberries are as varied as the motley collection of beautiful vintage crockery they’re served on.
However, the devil is in the detail, with nearly every dish reflecting that little bit of extra thought and effort from the kitchen that lifts the food to delicious heights. You don’t just get any old mayo with your crispy potatoes, it's a spicy sambal aïoli. There’s larb too, but instead of the classic Thai salad it’s served as a punchy and fresh-tasting tartare of beef topped with cashews – and you won’t forget the maple sriracha-glazed pig’s trotters in a hurry. The home-baked focaccia is a must-order – and some of the best bread in the city.
Reporters also rave about the ‘friendly, knowledgeable staff’ and the ‘really great atmosphere’ in the contemporary dining room with its blue/grey banquettes, dark wood tables and eye-catching botanical wall feature. Navigating the well-chosen wine list is a breeze, with ‘naturals’ listed separately from the more traditionally produced bottles; the short list of cocktails and local beers is worth exploring too.
For a true taste of Thailand, head to the Eagle, a popular backstreet pub in Brighton's North Laine district where Bookie (originally from Lampang) and her all-female kitchen team are in residence. Order at the bar then settle int… Read more
For a true taste of Thailand, head to the Eagle, a popular backstreet pub in Brighton's North Laine district where Bookie (originally from Lampang) and her all-female kitchen team are in residence. Order at the bar then settle into a booth at the back for well-made favourites such as pad thai, laksa and curries. Must-orders include khao soi (chicken and noodles in a vividly spiced coconut sauce laced with shrimp paste) and yum ma muang (a refreshingly spicy mango and prawn salad with a vibrant hot/sweet/sour/salty dressing). Portions are generous, but if you over-order, staff will happily box up any leftovers.
Pan-Asian dining, lounging and drinking in tasteful surroundings
The debut restaurant from the brother and sister team of Euan MacDonald and Mel Culcross has brought something new and distinctive to Brighton’s already diverse dining scene. This stylishly conceived space seamlessly combine… Read more
The debut restaurant from the brother and sister team of Euan MacDonald and Mel Culcross has brought something new and distinctive to Brighton’s already diverse dining scene. This stylishly conceived space seamlessly combines elements of a dining room, lounge and bar but has been tastefully fitted out with modern mid-century design flourishes. It’s full of delightful details ranging from bespoke Warhol-like 'soup can' cutlery holders labelled with Brighton street names to a random collection of owl ornaments by the bar.
The short but wide-ranging menu devised by executive chef Bookie Mitchell (who also runs Namo Eat at the Eagle pub) is an equally agreeable prospect. Expect anything from a crowd-pleasing ‘egg and soldier’ (a sesame prawn toast finger served with cured egg yolk and soy sauce for dipping) to a faithful rendition of bang-bang chicken or ‘No No Slow’ – a deeply satisfying, beef-cheek and coconut curry made to Culcross’s recipe.
NNP's list of original cocktails – all batch-made in-house – is worth the visit alone and includes a sprightly ‘Supagrass’ involving tequila, vermouth, lemongrass and salted coconut. Although there are just 10 wines on offer (including a Portuguese sparkler) each one has been carefully chosen and all are keenly priced, with small glasses of the house pours from just £6.20.
It's no reservations so you can just drop in and do what you fancy - a few drinks and snacks or go all in for a proper blow out. No No Please feels like a proper, convivial neighbourhood place.
Diminutive diner serving up eclectic, vibrantly flavoured dishes
The pink neon sign and smart olive-green frontage bring some welcome style and swank to a rather drab stretch of Hove's Western Road. Flanked by a kebab joint and a vape shop, it’s no surprise to learn that this intimate sma… Read more
The pink neon sign and smart olive-green frontage bring some welcome style and swank to a rather drab stretch of Hove's Western Road. Flanked by a kebab joint and a vape shop, it’s no surprise to learn that this intimate small-plates restaurant used to be a takeaway. Chef and owner Diego Ricaurte has created an attractive space with exposed brickwork, decorative filament wall lamps, tiled floors and simple but stylish wooden furniture. You can see the team at work in the open kitchen from wherever you sit – and wherever you sit you’ll be close to your neighbouring table, but that just adds to the conviviality.
In addition to the charming and friendly front-of-house team, the chefs deliver some of the dishes to the table themselves, giving diners the opportunity to chat – in fact, everyone is keen to talk about the food on offer here. The Ecuadorian chef's culiary heritage and wider influences from his travels gel into a satisfying and coherent dining experience.
A regularly changing menu features carefully sourced produce, much of it local, all brought together in a selection of vibrantly flavoured, eclectic dishes with South American and Indian influences looming large. Goat from nearby Cuckmere might be served as a birria taco, while locally landed line-caught sea bass could be sliced into a Peruvian-style tiradito and served with a kiwi and raspberry 'leche de tigre' plus a scattering of colourful wildflowers.
The wine list is short but full of interesting selections such as a Txakoli rosé and an impressive number of organic and biodynamic bottles – although the food also suits the local beers and well-made cocktails on offer. With only 20 seats, you’ll probably need to plan ahead to eat here – or be willing to dine early.
For more than a decade, Plateau has been the place in Brighton for natural wines and inventive cocktails. While that still holds true, it’s now firmly established as one of the best places for creative small plates too. Its … Read more
For more than a decade, Plateau has been the place in Brighton for natural wines and inventive cocktails. While that still holds true, it’s now firmly established as one of the best places for creative small plates too. Its early reliance on sharing platters of cheese and charcuterie as a sop to all that alcohol is a thing of the past; now, there’s a short, regularly changing menu bursting with deliciousness. Whipped cod’s roe (taramasalata to older readers) paired with the verdant, herbal spicy notes of zhoug is an inspired combination, and we’d return just to eat another bowl of the wonderfully comforting baked mushroom rice topped with a hillock of salted ricotta and breadcrumbs. Elsewhere, a pork and duck-liver terrine featuring perfectly tender, full-flavoured meat and some piccalilli (crisp vegetables and a pleasing mustardy punch) proved that the kitchen can be equally adept with the classics. It might sound over the top to describe a simply dressed green salad with pumpkin seeds as ‘thrilling’, but the rustic assembly of robust, bitter and crunchy English and Japanese leaves from NamaYasai Farm in nearby Cooksbridge was exactly that. The intimate dining room, with its stained glass, bare brick walls, wood floors and eye-catching floral displays is a relaxed, casual space that attracts a slightly more mature crowd (during our visit, at least). Tables, big enough to fit the small plates, are closely set but the jazz and funk soundtrack means your conversation won’t be overheard by your neighbours. If you’re not a natural wine expert, it’s worth asking for advice, as not everything on the list is designed to be a crowd-pleaser – although we enjoyed a reasonably priced and well-made organic Grenache Blanc from Potron Minet in the Languedoc.
'Punjabi beef keema and marrow bone curry, tandoori spiced monkish served on the bone... hell yeah,' exclaimed one fan. The Chilli Pickle's menu is a tantalising proposition and one that has continued to develop over the year… Read more
'Punjabi beef keema and marrow bone curry, tandoori spiced monkish served on the bone... hell yeah,' exclaimed one fan. The Chilli Pickle's menu is a tantalising proposition and one that has continued to develop over the years; any regulars mourning the absence of an old favourite (take a bow, oxtail Madras), will always find something new to try. Alun and Dawn Sperring's colourful restaurant opposite the city's award-winning Jubilee Library positively rocks when it's busy – which is most of the time. The Subcontinent's multifarious regions provide inspiration – especially for lunchtime 'street eats and small plates', which might take you from Punjabi samosa chaats to BBQ Mangalore king prawns inspired by South Indian traditions. Generous thalis are another lunchtime favourite. The tandoor and sigri grill are at the heart of things, for 'fabulous breads' or whole sea bream, while the surf 'n' turf sizzler is a veritable feast with everything from prawns to Kashmiri best end of lamb. Spicing is forthright, as it should be, but not everything is hot, with curries such as the richly indulgent tandoori butter chicken suiting milder palates. Vegetarians do very well indeed – the clay-pot sabsi curry which comes with an idli dumpling, for example. Many dishes arrive with their own bespoke accompaniments such as vibrant pickles or bread, and sides can be added if required. Don't swerve the dessert menu as maple gulab jamun and suchlike are no afterthought. The wine list is arranged by style with handy advice for food pairing, while cocktails and a decent range of beers should bolster your options.
One of Brighton's most striking restaurants is a light and airy space, housed in a handsome purpose-built two-storey brick building in the Hannington's 'retail and cultural quarter' development in the Lanes. Part of Ben McKellar's… Read more
One of Brighton's most striking restaurants is a light and airy space, housed in a handsome purpose-built two-storey brick building in the Hannington's 'retail and cultural quarter' development in the Lanes. Part of Ben McKellar's Gingerman group, the Flint House deals in small and sharing plates – nothing new, but with its enthusiastic and imaginative take on the concept, the kitchen keeps the idea fresh. Exuberantly eclectic, the food investigates a multitude of culinary traditions, perhaps serving East Asian-influenced miso and chilli emulsion with tender braised ox cheek fried in a crisp breadcrumb coating, and offering a rustic assembly of roasted aubergine, coconut yoghurt and curried lentils finished with a sprightly Middle Eastern-style dukkah spice mix. Go easy though, portions can be on the generous side, but don't miss the signature sweetcorn fritters with jalapeño mayonnaise, a staple since the restaurant opened in 2019. They go perfectly with a glass of locally made Ridgeview English sparkling from the concise but globally spanning wine list, especially when sitting at the counter by the open kitchen or on the first-floor rooftop terrace overlooking the Lanes. Not everything hits the mark, although the front-of-house team are efficient and professional but pleasantly relaxed, with a knack for creating a lively, upbeat atmosphere.
This is where it all began for chef and entrepreneur Ben McKellar. Since 1998, The Gingerman has gently evolved and is now part of group that has grown to include a country pub, an urban pub with rooms, and the trendy Flint House … Read more
This is where it all began for chef and entrepreneur Ben McKellar. Since 1998, The Gingerman has gently evolved and is now part of group that has grown to include a country pub, an urban pub with rooms, and the trendy Flint House with it's 'sharing plate' ethos. Gingerman still has that neighbourhood feel, with buttoned leather banquettes along one wall, exposed brick walls and a menu that always seem to punch above its weight. How about roasted veal sweetbread with mint and dashi consommé? The fixed-price carte (two or three courses) makes good use of regional ingredients and has moved with the times. Heritage tomatoes might go into a gazpacho with Devon crab and crumbly, sharp Sussex Medita cheese, while Loch Duart salmon is given the confit treatment with a fragrant hit of elderflower. Among main courses, seafood gets a good showing (pan-roasted stone bass with coco beans and tempura oyster, maybe), and Southdown lamb is a regular (loin and confit belly with almonds and olives). Dark chocolate stars in a creative dessert with Kahlua and espresso, alongside a morello cherry sorbet. There's also a tasting menu with optional (and good-value) wine pairings, and the veggie version is no afterthought. Bottle prices kick off at £29 for a Languedoc-Roussillon, although the list covers the globe and also delivers appealing options by the glass and carafe.
It’s now more than a decade since chef Duncan Ray (formerly of the Fat Duck) launched his much-loved seafood restaurant in a converted fishmongers on a backstreet close to Hove seafront. Since then, the intimate dining room has … Read more
It’s now more than a decade since chef Duncan Ray (formerly of the Fat Duck) launched his much-loved seafood restaurant in a converted fishmongers on a backstreet close to Hove seafront. Since then, the intimate dining room has been spruced up with large, well-spaced bare-wood tables, comfortable designer armchairs and a tastefully minimalist interior featuring polished wood floors and white walls hung with seafood-themed art. Ray no longer runs the small basement kitchen single handed, which allows him time to serve and personally explain some of the dishes on his regularly changing seven-course tasting menu. In the beginning, there was just one waiter, now a full front-of-house team is headed up by Ray’s partner, Nicky Stephens, who brings a warm liveliness to proceedings. Open for dinner only, the evening runs rather like a supper club, with all 20 or so diners requested to arrive at 6.45pm. Things kick off with a trio of canapés that might include an artfully composed and delicious seaweed cracker of wild Argentinian red prawn, walnut mayonnaise, pork scratching and confit ginger. The signature ‘TLFM egg’, a riff on an Alain Passard classic, has become a staple of the menu and currently includes apparently random layers of Jerusalem artichoke purée, egg yolk, smoked haddock jelly, acidulated cream and passion fruit purée that actually work brilliantly together. The real stars of the show, however, are the three headline courses featuring the finest, freshest seafood, some of it locally landed. One standout dish involved a superb piece of meltingly soft confit Loch Duart salmon with a 90s-style Champagne foam encircled by a cordon of cauliflower and seaweed purée – although the accompanying mini loaves of Comté-stuffed milk bread, glazed with shrimp and rosemary butter almost stole the show. Desserts are outstanding, too: our chocolate délice, given a subtle, saline tang with the genius addition of capers and some contrasting crunch from a praline base and a crisp pistachio and pink peppercorn tuile brought proceedings to a memorable close. The short wine list leans mainly towards France and while mark-ups are far from greedy, you may have to break the £50 barrier to find a bottle that will do proper justice to the food. Alternatively, opt for the interesting matched wine pairing, curated by Dan Keeling and Mark Andrew of Noble Rot.
Seafood cooked over fire is a USP to grab the attention of any self-identifying foodie – and it gets even better, because the Salt Room occupies a spot overlooking the English Channel. It's a shame about the busy road o… Read more
Seafood cooked over fire is a USP to grab the attention of any self-identifying foodie – and it gets even better, because the Salt Room occupies a spot overlooking the English Channel. It's a shame about the busy road out front, especially if you're lucky enough to have nabbed a table on the terrace, but this is Brighton and you're not here for the tranquillity, right? Crittal-style floor-to-ceiling windows serve up seaside views indoors too (depending on where you're seated). There's an energy to the place which suits the city – it's big and loud. The menu favours seafood but meaty and veggie things are not discarded, perhaps Himalayan salt-aged ribeye, or tempura king oyster mushrooms. If you're diving into the seafood, and have a willing accomplice, the blackboard reveals the market fish of the day, cooked over hot coals: Brighton sea bass or Cornish brill, say, filleted or on the bone ('so you can divvy it up yourself'), arrives with potatoes, vegetables, lemongrass and seaweed consommé. Mackerel 'nduja is a first-course rillette with tangy salted ricotta and pickled shallots, or there might be tuna crudo with spicy ponzu. A main-course cod, cooked just-so, comes with cauliflower multiple ways and a shellfish bisque of proper depth, while Cornish monkfish gets the barbecue treatment and a stew of white beans and 'nduja (again). Desserts include a board of seaside-themed treats, but the highlight for one reader was a choux bun with passion fruit and mango crémeux. The wine list kicks off with a selection called 'Coastal Whites', which sails from Kefalonia to Cape Aghulas; bottles start at £25, with plenty of options by the glass and carafe.
By day, 50 Preston Road is Café Rust, serving locally roasted coffee and an appealing menu of things on toast, homemade cakes and pastries. By night, the cake stands are packed away, a red neon sign is hung up and the intim… Read more
By day, 50 Preston Road is Café Rust, serving locally roasted coffee and an appealing menu of things on toast, homemade cakes and pastries. By night, the cake stands are packed away, a red neon sign is hung up and the intimate, atmospheric space, with its exposed plaster walls, parquet flooring and motley collection of bare-topped tables, is transformed into casual fine diner. It may be on a rather unlovely stretch of road, but once the dark grey-painted, hand-carved door has closed behind you and the soundtrack is pumping, the outside world is quickly forgotten. With just seven tables and a team of four – two in the kitchen, including head chef Dan Kenny, and two front of house – there’s a hint of the supper club, albeit one that is operating at a high level of ambition and efficiency. Everyone is requested to arrive by 6.45pm for pre-dinner drinks and each course is served to the entire restaurant at roughly the same time. At about three hours and around 15 courses, this is an extended experience, but from the first bite of pig’s trotter and jalapeño croquette to the final sweet serving of alphonso mango pavlova, the food comes in fast-running waves of flavour and every dish hits the mark. At first glance, central ingredients seem to appear at random on the menu. Early on, a trio of Japanese-inspired seafood dishes (including a stunning slice of high-quality otoro tuna) are immediately followed by ‘beef béarnaise’ – a thin strip of chive-encrusted sirloin sitting on a cube of crumbed and deep-fried béarnaise sauce, plus a deeply flavoured (and satisfying) oxtail dauphinoise with oxtail gravy, asparagus and aged Parmesan. It’s as though the main course has appeared prematurely. But Dan Kenny’s mission statement of ‘big flavoured, umami and fat-led food’ means he can play around with the conventional order of things, ramping up the intensity across the board: for example, a tender piece of chicken, deep-fried in a crisp batter and served in a vividly spiced tom yum broth, brings a satisfying conclusion to the savoury part of the meal. The wine list is short for a restaurant with such ambitious cooking, and prices rise steeply – this makes the pairing of wines not available on the main list an attractive proposition.
There's more than a suggestion of French bistro chic in Wild Flor's aesthetic, with its gilded mirrors, classic wine posters, unencumbered wooden tables, and banquette seating. A second flo(o)r has brought more tables into play, w… Read more
There's more than a suggestion of French bistro chic in Wild Flor's aesthetic, with its gilded mirrors, classic wine posters, unencumbered wooden tables, and banquette seating. A second flo(o)r has brought more tables into play, with a two-hander grabbing a prime spot in the huge window looking down on bustling Church Road. Run by a hands-on trio of Hove locals with sharp-end hospitality experience, Wild Flor gives equal prominence to food and wine, while the kitchen now works to a 'good old-fashioned carte' (their words), with back-up from an attractively priced set deal most sessions – all bolstered by seasonal pickings from the chef's own allotment. 'Welcome snacks' such as five-spice beef croquettes with anchovy mayo pique the taste buds ahead of starters including, say, a pea and lavender velouté with a 'deliciously al dente' buckwheat tortellino. Mains might bring chalk stream trout with cucumber, seaweed and melon or a classic veal chop partnered by confit garlic, tomato and red wine sauce. Among desserts, ginger and Brillat-Savarin cheesecake has 'just the right amount of gingeriness' or you could try blackcurrant parfait with chocolate sauce. Wine advice is dished out with enthusiasm: England and France (and Wales) vie for your attention among the sparklers, with Europe the prevailing influence across the board.
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