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64 Degrees

East Sussex, Brighton - Modern British - Restaurant - £££

Pioneering culinary destination still going strong

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

Now well into its second decade, Michael Bremner’s compact restaurant continues to deliver creative and delicious food. The best seats in the house are at the kitchen counter where you can watch the reasonably priced eight-course tasting menu being cooked and plated (there are also tables in the adjoining dining area). There were flashes of brilliance during our highly enjoyable lunch: a bowl of lobster ravioli made with a striking squid ink black-striped pasta, and served with a tomato bisque, burst with roasted shellfish flavour; a superlative chocolate, tonka bean and honey dessert (based, we were told, on the chocolate tart Bremner made at Marco Pierre White’s Quo Vadis back in the day) was served just warm and had an appealing mousse-like texture and a memorable intensity of flavour. Offering a choice of main courses (roast monkfish with salt baked cabbage, mussels and harissa butter or local Nuthurst lamb with potato and aubergine on our visit) is a nice touch, but ...

Now well into its second decade, Michael Bremner’s compact restaurant continues to deliver creative and delicious food. The best seats in the house are at the kitchen counter where you can watch the reasonably priced eight-course tasting menu being cooked and plated (there are also tables in the adjoining dining area).

There were flashes of brilliance during our highly enjoyable lunch: a bowl of lobster ravioli made with a striking squid ink black-striped pasta, and served with a tomato bisque, burst with roasted shellfish flavour; a superlative chocolate, tonka bean and honey dessert (based, we were told, on the chocolate tart Bremner made at Marco Pierre White’s Quo Vadis back in the day) was served just warm and had an appealing mousse-like texture and a memorable intensity of flavour.

Offering a choice of main courses (roast monkfish with salt baked cabbage, mussels and harissa butter or local Nuthurst lamb with potato and aubergine on our visit) is a nice touch, but not everything impressed. A pairing of slow-cooked beetroot and ricotta wouldn’t have looked out of place in one of Brighton’s numerous cafés and, while miso butter-poached cod with confit Crown Prince squash was tasty, it bordered on the simplistic and was rustic in presentation.

It also has to be said that the room itself is now beginning to show its age and would benefit from some TLC. The short wine list does a decent job of covering both the Old and New Worlds and includes sparkling wines from three different Sussex producers.

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VENUE DETAILS

53 Meeting House Lane
Brighton
East Sussex
BN1 1HBGB

01273 770115

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OTHER INFORMATION

Counter seating, Credit card required, Deposit required

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