Wild Flor
Hove, East Sussex
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There's more than a suggestion of French bistro chic in Wild Flor's aesthetic, with its gilded mirrors, classic wine posters, unencumbered wooden tables, and banquette seating. A second flo(o)r has brought more tables into play, with a two-hander grabbing a prime spot in the huge window looking down on bustling Church Road. Run by a hands-on trio of Hove locals with sharp-end hospitality experience, Wild Flor gives equal prominence to food and wine. Chef Ali Munro and his team now work to a 'good old-fashioned carte' (their words), with back-up from an attractively priced set deal most sessions. Welcome snacks such as anchovy and hogget lardo on toast pique the taste buds before starters such as pea and lavender velouté with a 'deliciously al dente' buckwheat tortellino. Mains might bring Sussex hogget (served with peas 'bonne femme', Berkswell cheese and vincotto) or pollock with pickled grapes, celery, crab and sauce amoricaine. Among desserts, our ginger and Brillat-Savarin cheesecake had 'just the right amount of gingeriness'. Wine advice is dished out with enthusiasm. England and France (and Wales) vie for your attention among the sparklers, with Europe the prevailing influence across the board.
