Wild Flor

There is something reassuring about the classic bistro feel of period wine prints, a chalkboard, banquette seating and bare wood tables – it may be 2025, but you could be dining in 1975. There's also a certain timelessness to the menu, which might well include oysters, beef tartare and a bavette steak. But look a little closer and you’ll see that owner James Thomson and chef George Upshall have elevated this popular neighbourhood destination above simple nostalgia.

The carefully curated wine list, one of the best in the city, focuses on small producers from around the globe (including some from Sussex), so you can be sure that you'll drink very well here. You’ll also be well looked after by the caring front of house team, who patrol the room attentively and top up wine glasses with just a dash of hand-behind-the-back ceremony. But most importantly, you’ll eat well from the weekly changing, seasonal menu.

A recent lunch started with very good home-baked sourdough, ahead of an expertly made rabbit and chicken galantine, the subtle flavours of which were enhanced by the piquancy of a sherry-infused prune wrapped in pancetta. Only some undressed salad leaves let the side down. Veal chop was a good-quality piece of meat cooked accurately to medium-rare, served sliced with a meaty brown butter jus, plus the bone for presentation... and gnawing (the atmosphere is relaxed, so you won't feel self-conscious picking it up and getting to work on it). Sides of bright, fresh, garlicky greens and a many-layered Quality Chop House-style deep-fried confit potato made for a very satisfying and generously proportioned main course.

A classic crème caramel had the required wobble and was not too sweet, although some honey-steeped apricots gilded the otherwise joyful lily. Also look out for the sub-£30 seasonal set menu available at various times during the week (check the restaurant’s website for details).