31 places to enjoy art while you eat Published 10 October 2023
From the striking stained glass window of Bibendum to a Stewart Swan piece jazzing up The Palmerston, art is a powerful part of a restaurant's personality. We’ve lined up 31 Good Food Guide restaurants, pubs and cafes that serve up great art while you eat.
No-frills neighbourhood Italian with an infectious vibe
A dark frontage punctuated by full-length windows reveals a spare-looking café-like interior, a narrow room with plain white walls and a constantly changing chalkboard menu – in short, Artusi is a ‘perfect neigh… Read more
A dark frontage punctuated by full-length windows reveals a spare-looking café-like interior, a narrow room with plain white walls and a constantly changing chalkboard menu – in short, Artusi is a ‘perfect neighbourhood restaurant’. Down some steps at the back, there is a chef's table for eight, with views of the open kitchen. This is Italian dining, Peckham-style, and none the worse for it.
The infectious straightforwardness of the approach is reflected in a dinner menu that offers three choices at each stage, with a couple of intervening pasta options. Start, perhaps, with a pretty plate of roasted fennel, Russet apples, ricotta and walnuts before moving on to cod with butter beans, purple sprouting broccoli and preserved lemon aïoli or braised featherblade of beef accompanied by confit garlic mash and cime di rapa. Don't want to miss the pasta? Ravioli di erbette (stuffed with wild greens, ricotta and sage) may well have your name on it. The Italian way with carbo-desserts then produces an irresistibly toothsome pistachio and chocolate cake with crème fraîche.
Lunch is a simpler affair (but similar in style), while Sunday brings a great-value set menu. Wines are not exclusively Italian, but those represent the best way of entering into the spirit. They've also got some oranged-up Sicilian Catarratto, if Pinot Grigio now seems a little vecchio cappello. A second outlet is now open at the Underbelly Boulevard in Soho.
Hotel restaurants don’t always thrill, but while Blas has a focus on creating accessible favourites, it does this with plenty of panache – making it worth a visit even if you’re not staying overnight. Twr Y Felin… Read more
Hotel restaurants don’t always thrill, but while Blas has a focus on creating accessible favourites, it does this with plenty of panache – making it worth a visit even if you’re not staying overnight. Twr Y Felin sits on the edge of St Davids, walking distance from the centre, in an impressive building that was once a windmill but is considerably bigger than its history would suggest. It’s been refashioned as an upmarket destination in recent years, and there’s an enjoyable focus on modern art throughout – including in the restaurant, whose walls display work on a grand scale. The styling is modern, dark and slightly clubby, with a sense of occasion, while service is polished but warm. There’s an emphasis on local ingredients, so a typical starter could be crab from the neighbouring village of Solva with slivers of cucumber, melon and brown crab mayonnaise – a fresh, balanced, artfully presented dish. A main course of potato gnocchi also impressed – fluffy, light and pan-fried, topped with tender broad beans, yellow courgette, spring onion, a gauzy espuma flourish and some dainty fresh herbs. At the other end of the spectrum, braised beef cheek with caramelised onion, chives and brioche crumb also hit the spot, delivering melting savoury richness and a sweet onion counterpoint. Desserts, while reassuringly familiar, are done with style and originality – cheesecake with strawberries and elderflower sorbet, for example, delivered all the expected luxury in a picture-perfect package; after that, nibble on playful 'pâté de fruits' petits fours shaped like teddy bears. The wine list features more than 30 Old World finds at a range of price points.
London’s original smart Indian, Chutney Mary began life in Chelsea in 1990, where it introduced Brits not only to regional cooking from the seven main cuisines of India but also to the potential of paying top dollar for the … Read more
London’s original smart Indian, Chutney Mary began life in Chelsea in 1990, where it introduced Brits not only to regional cooking from the seven main cuisines of India but also to the potential of paying top dollar for the sort of top-quality food one might find in a five-star hotel on the Subcontinent – then a novel concept in the UK. It’s a measure of how embedded Chutney Mary is in the foodie psyche of the capital that a move to St James’s in 2016 – to better compete with the high-end Mayfair scene – felt entirely natural, though for all the finery of the setting (well-spaced tables, alluring lighting, elegant staff) the joy of eating at Chutney Mary is cooking that, while undoubtedly refined, always remains recognisable. A baked venison samosa arrives as a pastry cone as thin and crisp as a dosa, deep-filled with richly minced meat. Crispy boneless chicken wings are even more inventive, bitesize cubes of juicy flesh wrapped in crisp skin, sweetly glazed with kokum and star anise. But this is also a kitchen that values repeat custom enough not to mess with the classics: fat tandoori wild prawns as chubby as a baby’s fist; butter chicken slow-cooked in a velvety, caramelised tomato sauce ('like luxury Heinz soup'); kid gosht biryani so much more fragrant than the usual lamb version (the result of steaming in saffron under a pastry lid). Vegetarian options – spiced corn ribs that look like coils of yellow tentacles, a glossy lozenge of glazed tandoori paneer – are just as worthy of attention, while distinctly flavoured side dishes such as a saag of seasonal greens may be the best thing about a meal here. Not ready to commit to the cost of a full dinner? Try cocktails and snacks in the sophisticated Pukka Bar.
With its colourful stained glass windows depicting M Bibendum, better known as the 'Michelin Man', Claude Bosi’s spacious, elegant dining room in the landmark Art Deco Michelin House merits that clichéd foodie description, ‘a… Read more
With its colourful stained glass windows depicting M Bibendum, better known as the 'Michelin Man', Claude Bosi’s spacious, elegant dining room in the landmark Art Deco Michelin House merits that clichéd foodie description, ‘a cathedral of gastronomy’. But there is nothing clichéd about Bosi’s food. It may be underpinned by peerless classical technique, but a meal here will always take you down the culinary path less travelled. Consider, for example, a main course of Brittany rabbit, a re-working of a Bosi classic. Previously paired with langoustine, this latest iteration features freshwater eel in several guises. A small piece, barbecued and glazed with mustard sauce acts as a richly flavoured condiment for the various preparations of rabbit that include a tiny, expertly trimmed rack (roasted to perfection and seasoned en pointe), two pieces of tender loin and a puffed-rice tempura nugget of the leg. A hollowed-out new potato is stuffed with an eel and rabbit farce and the whole thing bound together with two sauces – a rabbit jus and a smoked eel/mustard sauce poured at the table. A side dish of kombu custard topped with braised coco beans, mustard sauce and tarragon oil nearly steals the show. It’s complex, clever and memorable but, more importantly, it’s a joy to eat. That holds true of everything that arrives at the table, from exemplary cloud-like aged Gouda gougères and superb sourdough bread to a three-part interpretation of peach Melba that includes a white chocolate shell filled with a jelly of the peach poaching liquor topped with diced peach, vanilla cream, toasted almonds, lemon thyme and raspberries, plus an ethereal amaretti biscuit and a third dish of fresh peach slices with Vin Santo ice cream. A meal here is not cheap. Expect a hefty supplement for the signature duck jelly with smoked sturgeon and caviar or the roast chicken 'de Bresse' (served from a spectacular silver domed trolley). As for wine, the extensive wine list is dominated by bottles priced at three or four figures (although we did find several more-than-decent choices below £40). Bosi's singular culinary vision is a given, but factor in exquisite crockery, cutlery and stemware, as well as excellent old-school service (delivered with a smile by a smartly suited-and-booted team) and you have something worth paying all that money for.
* Chef Sam Lomas has announced that he is leaving to open his own restaurant (called Briar) in what was the old Osip premises in Bruton. Watch for more details.*
Devon is hardly short of idyllic locations, but each one makes an e… Read more
* Chef Sam Lomas has announced that he is leaving to open his own restaurant (called Briar) in what was the old Osip premises in Bruton. Watch for more details.*
Devon is hardly short of idyllic locations, but each one makes an eloquent case for itself. Here in the eastern reaches, amid the gentle rolling of the Coly valley, not far from Honiton, Glebe House enjoys a truly favoured spot. Occupying a sleek white building overseeing a 15-acre farmstead, the kitchen naturally draws on its own produce for much of the menu, but without making too much of a fanfare about it: 'it just happens,' a reporter comments, 'as it should in places like Devon, where there's space.' Hugo Guest and Sam Lomas have devised a style of cooking that deftly balances country-house seduction with the more vernacular tendency of domestic British cooking, all overlaid with a slight Italian accent, resulting in 'antipasti' that might encompass smoked ox heart with puntarelle and mustard and oaty 'porridge bread' with cultured butter. The fondness for Italian foodways mandates an intermediate pasta course at dinner (perhaps tagliarini with monkfish ragù) before the main business, which on our visit was an exemplary chicken and mushroom pie of hefty dimensions, its comfortingly rich filling encased in the kind of crunchy pastry that only a big country oven can achieve. Accompaniments were distinctly more metropolitan (confit potatoes, charred hispi) in a context that seems to have us yearning for simple greens. To finish, there could be Amalfi lemon tart with crème fraîche, or a sweetly beguiling rhubarb and cream choux bun with toffee sauce. Drinkers have Devon cider and organic lager as well as a short, zesty list of Old World wines.
Like a shaft of Mediterranean sunlight illuminating the Kelvingrove end of Argyle Street, Gloriosa certainly lives up to its Latin name: ‘I think everything they do is exceptional,’ cheered one fan and others also find… Read more
Like a shaft of Mediterranean sunlight illuminating the Kelvingrove end of Argyle Street, Gloriosa certainly lives up to its Latin name: ‘I think everything they do is exceptional,’ cheered one fan and others also find plenty to shout about – praising everything from the bold seasonality of the menu to the ‘refined vibe’ and the sheer ‘enthusiasm and thrills’ emanating from the place. The focaccia with olive oil is ‘as fresh as nonna would demand,’ noted one reader who also waxed lyrical about the green lentils in vinaigrette (‘as fresh as an Alpine morning’), while a dessert involving meringue, custard, cream and rhubarb conjured visions of a ‘jardin Provençal’. It’s all about vibrant, confidently executed dishes with colourful grace notes, from the Spanish-inspired grilled red Grelot onion with ajo blanco or ox heart with chickpeas and salsa rossa to crafty Italian pasta riffs such as paccheri with Isle of Wight tomatoes, marjoram and ricotta. Diners are warned that the house special of roast chicken with Caesar salad takes 30 minutes: ‘our chickens are cooked to order,’ declares the menu. If you can’t wait that long, perhaps order the hake with borlotti beans and roast violet artichokes finished with sage and aïoli. ‘Beautifully cool’ staff complement the food to perfection, while the wine list shines the spotlight on small-scale independent European producers, with house pours at affordable prices; alternatively, a bergamot-spiked Old Fashioned might float your boat.
* Mark McCabe, formerly at The Ethicurean near Bristol (now closed) has taken over as head chef. He replaces Cillian Hennessy, who has been appointed Aulis development chef. Watch for a new review coming soon.*
Once up the sweepi… Read more
* Mark McCabe, formerly at The Ethicurean near Bristol (now closed) has taken over as head chef. He replaces Cillian Hennessy, who has been appointed Aulis development chef. Watch for a new review coming soon.*
Once up the sweeping driveway of Linthwaite House and through the 14 acres of gardens onto the hotel’s terrace, you'll be treated to one of the finest views of Windermere, with the namesake ‘hen rock’ poking out of the lake below. Henrock (the restaurant) is at the viewless rear of the hotel, which focuses attention firmly on the plate, though – as in the rest of the impressive property – there is also art to admire from the owners’ private collection. Henrock is a Simon Rogan restaurant with a pronounced Asian accent (the chef is a big deal in Hong Kong) and each dish bears the imprimatur of Rogan’s precise presentation. Meals kick off with the ‘hen on a rock’ canapé (mushroom and egg in a scooped-out shell atop a piece of slate) ahead of starters such as lacquered smoked eel with XO custard – eastern flavours filtered through modern British fine dining. A main course of Peking duck with a date and gochujang croquette, meanwhile, involves pink-cooked, crisp-skinned roast breast and autumnal, sweet-and-sour accompaniments. Many of the ingredients have travelled no further than the extensive Our Farm in Cartmel, 13 miles away, and vegetarian dishes such as fermented and grilled cabbage with truffled tofu, teriyaki sauce and wasabi emulsion are as diverting as the meat and fish options. Desserts (pistachio cake with blackberry and buttermilk; steamed banana sponge with rum ice cream) suggest that afternoon tea here would be excellent (and it comes with a lake view from the conservatory). The wine list casts its net wide, from Sussex to Slovenia, and an excellent by-the-glass selection (from £6) helps to make amends for the rather lofty bottle prices. If there’s a drawback, there’s no getting away from the feeling that one is eating in a hotel dining room, and that this is a Rogan satellite rather than the L’Enclume mothership. But if you can’t get into L’Enclume or a Lakeland visit doesn’t allow time or transportation for Cartmel, Henrock provides a taste of Rogan destined to inspire further exploration.
Fine art and tapas go together like bread and olive oil – no wonder avid gallery visitors (and others) are salivating over this addition to Spanish chef José Pizarro’s burgeoning restaurant group. Housed in… Read more
Fine art and tapas go together like bread and olive oil – no wonder avid gallery visitors (and others) are salivating over this addition to Spanish chef José Pizarro’s burgeoning restaurant group. Housed in the Senate Room on the first floor of the Royal Academy of Arts (RA), the space boasts a soaring ceiling, with natural light streaming through large sash windows, pale marble tabletops, grey leather chairs and a contemporary bar for counter-dining. The concise menu is all about hot and cold tempters: start with a plate of Ibérico ham before moving on to a pisto of aubergines and peppers served with a wobbly poached egg or a dish of chorizo cooked in red wine with candied cubes of quince. Above all, don’t miss the bouncy prawn fritters with lemon allioli or the 'cheese on toast' (sobrasada sausage and Mahón [cheese] on sourdough with honey, to be precise). Fair pricing extends to the well-selected list of food-friendly Spanish wines and sherries. Pizarro also runs the casual, no-bookings Poster Bar on the ground floor.
London's oldest French restaurant still going strong
Opened in 1927 as L’Escargot Bienvenue (complete with a snail farm in the basement), this bastion of old Soho has moved gently with the times while retaining its ageless sense of style – thanks in part to its current p… Read more
Opened in 1927 as L’Escargot Bienvenue (complete with a snail farm in the basement), this bastion of old Soho has moved gently with the times while retaining its ageless sense of style – thanks in part to its current patron Brian Clivaz. A substantial refit in 2023 enhanced the famously warm, softly lit interiors, numerous salons and private spaces, and the veritable gallery of artwork lining the walls.
‘Slow and sure’ is the restaurant’s motto, and the kitchen continues to deliver a comforting rendition of 'la cuisine bourgeoise' – which means lobster salad, navarin of lamb, grilled halibut with hollandaise, confit duck with Puy lentils, crème brûlée and chocolate soufflé. The titular gastropods are shipped up from Herefordshire these days, although their treatment is as emphatically traditional as ever – slathered with parsley and garlic or, perhaps, flambéed with Pernod. Occasionally the menu strays off-piste for the likes of crab linguine with leeks and tarragon or asparagus and pea risotto, but it's back to France for cheeses and madeleines.
Fixed-price lunches and pre-theatre deals are good value for the postcode, afternoon tea is a pleasing surprise, and ‘flavoursome’ Sunday lunches have delivered ‘exceptional quality’ – from ‘rôti de côte de boeuf à l‘anglaise’ to tarte au citron. Wines are patriotically Gallic, of course, with big-ticket bottles for those who want to splurge but also some more affordable regional options for everyday drinking.
On the northern shores of Loch Leven, this big, brightly lit space with wipe-clean tables and café chairs is the go-to spot for shellfish in the region. It’s also a showcase for the family-owned Lochleven Shellfish Co… Read more
On the northern shores of Loch Leven, this big, brightly lit space with wipe-clean tables and café chairs is the go-to spot for shellfish in the region. It’s also a showcase for the family-owned Lochleven Shellfish Company next door – which dispatches crabs and lobsters, langoustines and oysters across Europe and Asia. There are meat dishes for those who must, but it’s the simply prepared seafood, presented without fuss, that brings customers here. A table of returning German visitors were working their way through the menu on our visit: a dozen Loch Creran oysters, followed by shellfish bisque with aïoli, then the mighty shellfish platter on ice made up of lobster, brown crab, Loch Linnhe scallops and oysters, which they declared the best shellfish in Europe. Expect too, lobster served cold with mayonnaise or hot with garlic butter, and whole brown crab – all to be eaten hands-on with crackers and shellfish pickers until the table is a pile of shells. A little less messy are grilled clams with garlic butter, diver-harvested scallops, razor clams poached in white wine, and buckets of steaming mussels in cider. To drink? Expect a standard list of predominantly white wines as well as local brews from River Leven Ales in Kinlochleven. There’s also a daytime coffee shop and a deli where fresh, frozen and cooked seafood is on sale.
There’s a serenity about Maison Bleue, a kind of timeless elegance and comfort that elevates 'lunch' to 'luuuunch'. It is a Bury St Edmunds fixture, attracting the most loyal of guests (some from quite a distance) for whom t… Read more
There’s a serenity about Maison Bleue, a kind of timeless elegance and comfort that elevates 'lunch' to 'luuuunch'. It is a Bury St Edmunds fixture, attracting the most loyal of guests (some from quite a distance) for whom the combination of graceful service delivered by exceptional people and a menu of classical French cookery is everything a restaurant should be. Occasional flirts with spice add layers of interest to some dishes, witness caramelised cauliflower with a gentle tandoori seasoning or lemongrass, ginger and soy awakening the mild flavour of Devon crab – the latter a beautifully fresh starter which finds the crustacean tucked up with Granny Smith apple under glimmering avruga caviar. Top-notch ingredients take their place on the ‘gourmet’ menu, where you might find organic Shimpling Park lamb (the roasted saddle and slow-cooked shoulder served with sweet potato, kohlrabi and a lamb reduction) or firm, pearly-white Gigha halibut on a little heap of cumin-warmed white cabbage, puréed cauliflower and pieces of smoked eel. A crème brûlée is everything you could ever wish it to be – silken, rich, caramelly – but how welcome is that perky, balancing raspberry and tarragon sorbet. The exceptional wine list is one in which to lose yourself. It excites, tempts and delivers with a (naturally) French-leaning selection, while expert advice comes with the domaine. A rounded but fresh Coudoulet Blanc from the legendary southern Rhône winery, Château de Beaucastel, pairs a treat with a classically sauced chicken ballotine, and is equally satisfying alongside the earthy, autumnal savouriness of stone bass with an artichoke cream sauce, chanterelles and salsify.
For most of the week, Milkwood is a relaxed café turning out trendy brunches, but every Friday and Saturday evening it shifts to a more elevated dining experience based around an imaginative 'small plates' menu that spans e… Read more
For most of the week, Milkwood is a relaxed café turning out trendy brunches, but every Friday and Saturday evening it shifts to a more elevated dining experience based around an imaginative 'small plates' menu that spans everything from stonking meat dishes to lively and interesting vegan options. At the carnivorous end of the spectrum might be hefty chunks of mangalitza black pudding with pickled walnut purée, a golden, runny egg, melting pork lardo and the crispiest croûtons – or slow-braised short-rib of beef topped with a profusion of glossy, coal-black lumpfish roe, plus hen of the woods mushroom and rich, sweet/savoury caramelised onion purée. Plant-based options are just as satisfying: take a barbecued gem lettuce – fresh, juicy and lightly charred – spiked with confit lime dressing and dainty capers then softened with cucumber and coconut yoghurt (a ‘bright, refreshing’ dish that delighted one diner). Elsewhere, meaty, caramelised slices of BBQ swede are enlivened with sweet-potato purée, punchy homemade kimchi and the crunch of puffed wild rice. Presentation is relaxed and generous – no more so than in a dessert of rhubarb and custard jumbled with honeycomb and spicy Jamaican ginger cake. This is cooking without boundaries, pulling in ideas from all quarters and creating dishes that surprise and excite. A relatively short wine list favours Europe and peaks at £35.
Any restaurant located on Mayfair's Mount Street must bring expectations of high prices and a certain well-groomed charm. Mount St doesn't disappoint on either count. There’s a classy subtlety to this dining room located abo… Read more
Any restaurant located on Mayfair's Mount Street must bring expectations of high prices and a certain well-groomed charm. Mount St doesn't disappoint on either count. There’s a classy subtlety to this dining room located above the Audley Public House. Large windows let natural light flood in and every inch of the walls is covered in art, courtesy of Artfarm (the hospitality arm of the modern gallery group Hauser & Wirth) which is behind the redevelopment of the whole building. It makes for a voguishly svelte (and welcome) package – open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Given the fact that it received the seal of approval from the King and Queen when they dined here late in 2022, coupled with the cult status of its eye-wateringly priced lobster pie for two, it's no surprise that booking is essential. The menu follows both the classic school (oysters, caviar, omelette Arnold Bennett, Portland crab with brown crab mayonnaise) and more contemporary themes (a pairing of Orkney scallops with a smooth smoked eel sauce and slivers of raw apple adding some texture). Stick with fish and you might be rewarded by Dover sole with brown butter hollandaise, but meats are also allowed to shine – as in a gutsy dish of perfectly timed West Country lamb chops teamed with some slow-cooked belly. Finish up with a banana soufflé plus rum and raisin ice cream and salted caramel or a gloriously old-fashioned savoury, perhaps Gentleman’s Relish on toast with cucumber. The wide-ranging wine list, strongest in France and Italy, is predictably pricey.
Seafood is front and centre at this small restaurant from independent Sheffield fishmonger J H Mann. An open kitchen is separated from the dozen or so tables by a display of fresh fish on a slim counter, while high-ceilings, expos… Read more
Seafood is front and centre at this small restaurant from independent Sheffield fishmonger J H Mann. An open kitchen is separated from the dozen or so tables by a display of fresh fish on a slim counter, while high-ceilings, exposed steel and bare brick walls give an industrial feel that’s offset by colourful modern art and complemented by chunky wooden furniture and velvet-covered banquettes. Chef-owner Christian Szurko is Sheffield-born and London-trained (The Ivy, J Sheekey) and his menu bursts with ambitious flavour combinations: a generous side order of grilled savoy cabbage in garlic emulsion with smoked anchovies was one of the highlights of our visit. While the regular menu tends to favour the classics – grilled tiger prawns, steamed mussels, fish pie – the kitchen also handles more ambitious ideas such as a perfectly charred piece of octopus with mash and 'nduja and anchovy dressing. However, most of the more unusual, creative dishes are reserved for the specials board: here you might find maple-cured salmon with gochujang, kimchi and brioche toast or whole sea bream stuffed with jerk butter on a bed of incredibly delicious, lightly curried creamed corn, as well as grilled scallops with braised pork cheek, white asparagus and chunks of smoked Idiazabal cheese. To finish, we shared a lavish raspberry and pistachio pavlova. The house white is an organic Grüner Veltliner, while service is delivered with classic South Yorkshire warmth.
There’s something reassuringly old fashioned about this self-confident restaurant (the latest in what is now a trio of London-based Noble Rots) – and that’s a large part of its charm. With a dark green frontage, … Read more
There’s something reassuringly old fashioned about this self-confident restaurant (the latest in what is now a trio of London-based Noble Rots) – and that’s a large part of its charm. With a dark green frontage, ground-floor windows sporting café-style net curtains and two slightly cramped dining floors, it feels as if it has been around forever – an impression reinforced by the simple polished wood tables, red banquettes, wooden chairs and mottled walls covered in framed Noble Rot magazine covers. Clued-up staff, a general air of warm-heartedness and a commendable wine list all contribute to the appeal. The regularly changing menu is reflective of both the season and head chef Adam Wood's many enthusiasms – his food is a delight. The short, Euro-accented menu offers dishes that are (mostly) straightforward assemblies with inspired finishing touches – beef tartare with green tomatoes and Ossau-Iraty (Basque ewe's milk cheese), say, or smoked ravioli with courgette and preserved lemon. We enjoyed tender squid with a chorizo sauce – so good we regretted not ordering bread to mop it all up – followed by two generous slices of tender Ibérico pork, served with a heap of runner beans, sliced apricots and juicy whole blackberries. And we couldn’t fault the rich, delicate duck-egg custard tart – a sprinkling of sea salt proved a sharp foil that really enhanced the flavour. The wine list is simply one of the best in London, an outstanding, deeply researched and inspiring document. Predominantly organised by grape variety, with regional sections where blends are predominant, it spans a massive range of top-drawer growers and estates. The principal focus is Europe, though there are some pedigree New Worlders too. Portuguese and Greek selections are encouragingly thorough, and the listings of sparklers and sweet wines (rotted and late-picked) are tremendous. Wines by the glass are in small enough measures to make comparative tasting feasible. Coravin pours will test the budget, but are uniformly glorious.
Since the aroma of fresh croissants first wafted from the ovens of the original bakery in Ancoats, Pollen has established something of a cult status in Manchester for its quality viennoiserie and sourdough loaves. A second, larger… Read more
Since the aroma of fresh croissants first wafted from the ovens of the original bakery in Ancoats, Pollen has established something of a cult status in Manchester for its quality viennoiserie and sourdough loaves. A second, larger outpost at the Kampus development in the Piccadilly area is a serene, putty-hued space looking onto a lush courtyard garden where you can linger over a lunch of BBQ mushrooms on toast with celeriac and salsa verde or Jerusalem artichoke soup with herb butter. The counter also advertises a handsome selection of sweet treats: our surprisingly delicate matcha cheesecake was a sure sign of the pastry team's skills.
Housed within the custom-built Design Museum alongside David Mellor’s iconic and award-winning 'factory’, the delightful Riverside Kitchen cuts quite a dash right in the centre of the space. Very good coffee and artisa… Read more
Housed within the custom-built Design Museum alongside David Mellor’s iconic and award-winning 'factory’, the delightful Riverside Kitchen cuts quite a dash right in the centre of the space. Very good coffee and artisan pastries are standard, but check out the eclectic lunch menu, which could feature anything from Maharashtrian dhal to Persian chicken fesenjan (an Iranian stew with walnuts and pomegranate molasses). There are cracking sourdough toasties too, as well as international brunch classics and an ever-changing choice of salads. Chai lattes, local Thornbridge ales, kochumba and signature Bloody Marys catch the eye on the trendy drinks list.
Confident cooking in one of London's best looking dining rooms
The inconspicuous entrance – look for the pillarbox-red door – doesn’t give much away. Take the lift to the 4th floor and pull back the velvet curtain for the grand reveal. The huge arched windows of Palladian-st… Read more
The inconspicuous entrance – look for the pillarbox-red door – doesn’t give much away. Take the lift to the 4th floor and pull back the velvet curtain for the grand reveal. The huge arched windows of Palladian-style Sessions House (once the country’s largest courthouse) flood the former judges’ dining room with light by day, and reflect the flickering candlelight by night. It feels like stepping onto a period film set, the distressed paintwork and salvaged furnishings evoking a faded louche decadence.
Former sous-chef Abigail Hill is now running the kitchen, and her seasonally inspired food captures and reflects the artful aesthetic. The single-sheet roster of Med-accented dishes runs from the diminutive to the substantial and can be enjoyed in a three-course format – though each dish is delivered to your table when ready, so it’s arguably better to approach the menu as a pick-‘n’-mix.
Hill composes the food as much for the eye as for the palate, and any sense of pared-back austerity is banished by seductive richness and decadence: thick, buttery slices of lightly cured trout, properly seasoned and accompanied by a tart cream, heady with perfumed bergamot, for example, or rare onglet with a cloud of finely grated Spenwood cheese, which further heightens the almost gamey umami of the beef. This is well-judged and skilful stuff. Elsewhere, roasted muscat grapes bring bursts of sweet acidity to a winter creation of rich and astutely cooked pork with collard greens.
Vegetable dishes are given minor billing, though offerings such as shards of raw Badger Flame beetroot with walnuts and Jerusalem artichoke purée or a standout combo of purple sprouting broccoli with pistachio crumb and ewe’s yoghurt go a long way to absolving this. To finish, chocolate torte is a worthy Sessions classic. The wine list, supplied by Keeling Andrew (importers, distributors, consultants and founders of Noble Rot), is well-suited to the grown-up Sessions crowd (over-18s only): expect a stylish assortment of crowd-pleasers and hip appellations, plus an impressive by-the-glass range and plenty for those who want to delve a little deeper.
The grand Palladian mansion near Ripon was once a further education college and was converted in 2019 into a luxury hotel and spa for a staggering £70m. For this kind of money, you get extravagance and theatre all the way &n… Read more
The grand Palladian mansion near Ripon was once a further education college and was converted in 2019 into a luxury hotel and spa for a staggering £70m. For this kind of money, you get extravagance and theatre all the way – from the worsted-suited commissionaire who greets you to the expensively landscaped gardens, clipped hedges, manicured lawns, floodlights, fountains and sculptures. If you are not staying in one of the 47 bedrooms or enjoying the state-of-the-art spa, you can still dine in one of five restaurants ranging from the pan-Asian bar/restaurant Eighty Eight to the Orchard – a marquee on the west lawn serving small plates and grills. The flagship, though, is chef Shaun Rankin's self-named venue, where starched white linen, chandeliers, thick drapes and heavy velvet chairs are matched by old-school service that’s 'fully informed, professional and charming'. The 'Taste of Home' menu (10 courses with add-ons) is based on Rankin’s Yorkshire roots, using ingredients sourced within a 30-mile radius of the restaurant. It begins with a series of snacks, then bread served with an intense smoked bone-marrow butter and a teapot filled with a rich consommé that they call 'beef tea' (with a touch of Yorkshire irony). Then it’s on to a succession of exquisite courses one after another: crab; asparagus with a delicate tart of sabayon and sea buckthorn; turbot wrapped in a cabbage leaf garnished with caviar. Aged sirloin is finished with wild garlic, goat’s cheese comes with a flapjack, and finally it's time for a pair of desserts: one of strawberry ice cream and elderflower; another of cherry blossom served with a feather-light Bakewell sponge. Coffee is taken in the drawing room, where chocolates are tweezered from a fancy wooden cabinet. Grantley Hall is opulent and it’s pricey (especially if you dip into the prestigious international wine list), but ‘for a blowout dinner, it absolutely delivers’.
A bright white room in the newer wing of Somerset House, Spring feels like an intuitive setting for Skye Gyngell's restaurant. If her vegetable- and fruit-oriented cooking evokes the seasons in ways that are easy to overlook in th… Read more
A bright white room in the newer wing of Somerset House, Spring feels like an intuitive setting for Skye Gyngell's restaurant. If her vegetable- and fruit-oriented cooking evokes the seasons in ways that are easy to overlook in the metropolis, the origami wall decorations, cluster light fixtures and white pillars carry a distinct hint of the celestial. It all makes for an experience that is both restful and wholesome, without any sense of puritanical earnestness. At a time when the industry is struggling to recruit and retain, staff here are exemplary – alert, obliging, hospitable. Dishes are also burnished to a high shine, even for the simplest of ideas. Three tortellini of sunny yellow pasta are filled with potato and Taleggio, in a luminous butter sauce edged with salty speck and sage. Nor does confidence falter when the combinations light out for wilder shores: Cornish crab with persimmon, kohlrabi and lovage oil, garnished with a trio of radicchio varieties, is full of gently building aromatics. Vegetable accompaniments insist on their share of the limelight in main dishes, so caramelised Jerusalem artichoke, lightly cooked cime di rapa and smooth white bean purée have their say in supporting tenderly grilled lamb, while monkfish comes parcelled in cabbage leaves instead of the traditional bacon, teamed with puréed cauliflower and curry-leaf butter. A side of potatoes smothered in black garlic and sour cream is fully worth the additional outlay. Pick of the desserts is a silky quince, mascarpone and citrus cake, the three elements melding beautifully into something truly unforgettable. A judiciously chosen wine list offers many of the on-trend varietals of the moment, as well as low-intervention cuvées and some cellar treasures. Mark-ups are pretty vigorous, though: bottles start at £30.
Define a pub you love. There’ll likely be an easy welcome, the sort that makes you plan your next visit as you're leaving; there’ll be firelit cosiness in winter and rambling outside spaces in summer; there’… Read more
Define a pub you love. There’ll likely be an easy welcome, the sort that makes you plan your next visit as you're leaving; there’ll be firelit cosiness in winter and rambling outside spaces in summer; there’ll probably be layers of interest on a beer and wine list that takes you excitingly down paths less-trodden without abandoning the familiar. And there’ll be a menu that feeds generously with beautiful, seasonal simplicity, and without taking itself too seriously. That's The Anchor. Graze on oysters, or allotment courgettes sliced raw and scattered with olives, Parmesan, rocket and an intense olive oil, or endlessly moreish halloumi fries sharpened by a dip in sweet chilli vinegar. Monkfish tail, muscular and roasted to perfection on the bone, comes in a broth that's satisfying with saffron-warmed potatoes, fennel and celery, or go for aubergine, cooked to sweet softness in the kitchen's wood-fired oven and served with lightly spiced chickpeas and rice. Fish and chips, burgers and steaks may be pub staples, but the pep of jalapeño in a homemade tartare sauce, a tangle of caramelised red onions, and a Café de Paris butter elevates each accordingly. Pizza? An outside wood oven roars into life (check times) to produce, among others, deliciously laden mushroom and Baron Bigod or a simple margherita version to order. The chocolate fondant is everything such a dessert should be, so too a lemon posset with a pistachio biscuit and berries – unless, of course, you need to save that for your next visit.
The Angel has been a fixture in the Guide for many a decade, surviving various culinary eras and changes of look. Its present incarnation, under chef-patron Michael Wignall (ex-Gidleigh Park et al), offers a smartly attired suite … Read more
The Angel has been a fixture in the Guide for many a decade, surviving various culinary eras and changes of look. Its present incarnation, under chef-patron Michael Wignall (ex-Gidleigh Park et al), offers a smartly attired suite of three dining rooms – ours featuring polished concrete floors, lacquered oak tables and seating in soft grey leather. The aura of relaxed informality remains undented, and the view over the Dales is appetising enough, even if you haven't been hiking the long day through. Presented via a mixture of tasting menus and a carte, the cooking has, once again, acquired the innovative edge it had in days gone by. A delightful starter of tomato textures – fresh, cooked, dried and consommé – is served with lovage ice and basil. Even more fragrant is a serving of Shetland crab in buttermilk dashi with oscietra caviar, green strawberries and herb oil. To follow, guinea fowl is poached and sautéed to crisp satisfaction, teamed with roasted hen of the woods mushrooms and puréed corn, while lamb (and its tongue) arrive with a garniture of salsa verde shoehorned into a roll of lettuce, topped with anchovy crumb. Only desserts fell a little flat at inspection, but the incidentals – particularly the ingenious canapés – are all up to the mark. Wines by the glass start at a reasonable £5 for a small measure of a light Macabeo-Verdejo from Spain.
‘This is easily one of the grandest restaurants I’ve ever visited,’ observed an inspector. It is hard not to be seduced by the vast gabled building, built in 1864 as a school, and crowned by a clock tower fr… Read more
‘This is easily one of the grandest restaurants I’ve ever visited,’ observed an inspector. It is hard not to be seduced by the vast gabled building, built in 1864 as a school, and crowned by a clock tower from which the establishment takes its name. Architecturally it is rich in detail, with huge windows and soaring raftered ceilings: the overall effect is 'visually incredible and totally unique'. Few restaurants integrate as effectively with their surroundings, and the place is an asset to the area, with everyone dressed up to the nines for a proper posh night out. Yet, with no tablecloths or tasting menus, the approach can be seem like a casual take on high-end dining. Most people find Luke Sutton’s cooking intelligently judged, as in dishes such as a tranche of wild bass with properly crisp skin and silky flesh cooked just right, set on a tomato-based stew of white beans, chorizo and diced vegetables, or an individual treacle tart with a nice gooey, lemon-heavy filling and a punchy miso caramel underneath. There's also the option of a good-value two- or three-course set menu at lunchtime and early evening. Slightly formal but super-efficient service makes everyone 'feel a bit special,' concluded one visitor. The 200-bin global wine list offers ample value, starting at £20 and rising to about £400; most bottles hover around the £30 to £100 mark and wines by the glass start at £5.
‘Charming, precise and delicious’; ‘an almost perfect experience’ – just two glowing verdicts on Taylor Bonnyman’s discreet and eminently civilised little restaurant tucked away in a quiet Chels… Read more
‘Charming, precise and delicious’; ‘an almost perfect experience’ – just two glowing verdicts on Taylor Bonnyman’s discreet and eminently civilised little restaurant tucked away in a quiet Chelsea street, which is celebrating is 10th anniverary in 2023. With its warm lighting, widely spaced tables, rich upholstery and smartly dressed, punctilious staff, it feels classy but classic with touches of elegance and formality that belie its neighbourly disposition (even if that neighbourhood is SW3). The whole show is ‘superbly organised’ and a fitting backdrop to Bonnyman’s seasonal culinary adventures. Much depends on produce from his specially designed and professionally tended organic kitchen garden in Sussex, which add vivacity and freshness to a host of intricate constructions noted for their cohesion and limpid flavours. A lot happens on the plate, as in a three-part combo involving roasted scallops with collared greens, a serving of broccoli stems with ginger broth, and a scallop roe/radish dumpling. More robust dishes also feature prominently, although there is always something unexpected underpinning prosaic-sounding ideas such as roast lobster tail with braised chard or saddle of fallow deer (from the Sussex estate) complemented by earthy swede and fragrant meadowsweet. Meals revolve around an eight-course tasting menu (six courses at lunch), concluding with a brace of contemporary desserts – perhaps blood orange sorbet with buttermilk followed by a tartare of rhubarb with rose cream redolent of an English garden. The diverse wine list includes ‘fabulous options across all price points’, with stellar contributions from reputable producers worldwide, plus an impressive contingent of English sparklers and around 20 highly appetising by-the-glass selections for those who want to explore without splurging.
Spectacular art-filled venue serving big-boned British dishes
On the fringes of a 1,000-acre deer park just four miles from the Norfolk coast, this idiosyncratic pub/restaurant with rooms is quite a prospect. The grey-stone exterior may seem rather stark but inside all is comforting, thanks … Read more
On the fringes of a 1,000-acre deer park just four miles from the Norfolk coast, this idiosyncratic pub/restaurant with rooms is quite a prospect. The grey-stone exterior may seem rather stark but inside all is comforting, thanks to soft, warm furnishings, lots of varnished woodwork, leather, blazing fires and the owners' collection of contemporary British art from the likes of Tracey Emin, Damien Hirst and Lucien Freud.
A recently acquired walled garden and chicken coop bolster the kitchen's larder, while big-boned British dishes are the order of the day. Much attention focuses on the mighty Elk Room fire, where cuts of meat are dramatically cooked to order as you watch from your table – expect anything from Blythburgh pork chops, ribs of beef and herby Gunton venison sausages to flavoursome sirloin steak served with goose-fat roasties, sauces and rowan jelly. Rich, carefully seasoned pies are also something of a trademark (perhaps chicken, bacon and leek) and there’s fish from the coast too (sea trout with seashore vegetables and King’s Lynn shrimps, for example). For afters, a delicate Amedei chocolate mousse was the standout for one visitor, but there’s also comfort to be had from the vanilla cheesecake with rhubarb or the Bramley apple and almond tart.
Sunday brings roast Aberdeen Angus sirloin as well as roasted chickens, which are carved by skilled staff and served with veg from the walled garden, garlicky bread sauce and a spectacular gravy that elevates the whole feast to another level. Everyone praises the cheerful, prompt and ‘incredibly friendly’ service too. Norfolk ales are on tap in the bar and the short wine list offers a decent spread at fair prices.
Peter Creed and Tom Noest know how to fancy-up a pub without ruining it. Rooted in the Cotswolds, they made a success of the Bell at Langford and in 2021 brought their winning formula to this picturesque 17th-century hostelry in a… Read more
Peter Creed and Tom Noest know how to fancy-up a pub without ruining it. Rooted in the Cotswolds, they made a success of the Bell at Langford and in 2021 brought their winning formula to this picturesque 17th-century hostelry in a suitably opulent village. The conspicuously luxe element of the package is confined to the 10 letting rooms, while the restaurant and bar speak of old-fashioned country pubs, complete with bare floorboards, stone walls, venerable beams and, at weekends, a full house of rollicking, good-humoured locals drinking real ale. There’s also a terrace for summertime dining. The cooking is similarly unfussy and robust (chef Noest, still in his mid-20s, acknowledges a debt to Fergus Henderson). Notable skill is shown at the pizza oven – try sharing a ‘bite’ of garlic, bone marrow and parsley flatbread to start. Otherwise, a nose-to-tail dinner might begin with bouncy sweetbreads matched with crisp nuggets of bacon and leeks, followed by a dense and meaty faggot of local venison with swede and carrot mash – both dishes giving due gravity to the gravy. Lighter meals could feature creamy whipped cod’s roe (surrounding a pool of olive oil) with a gooey-yolked hard-boiled egg, ahead of on-the-bone brill with monk's beard. Seasonality is key here, so a dessert in March might celebrate rhubarb, perhaps topped with creamy cold custard beneath a generous portion of crunchy candied almonds. The wine list keeps up with trends (note the 'orange' selections), kicking off with a varied choice of house tipples by the glass. Service, too, is on the ball, even when things get busy. In all, an antidote to the pretension so prevalent in these parts.
Good-value Med-oriented cooking in atmospheric surroundings
In a retooled bank building in Edinburgh's Haymarket district, the Palmerston makes a virtue of the decorative style of yesteryear. Lots of dark wood, an uncovered floor and bentwood café chairs create an atmosphere of old-… Read more
In a retooled bank building in Edinburgh's Haymarket district, the Palmerston makes a virtue of the decorative style of yesteryear. Lots of dark wood, an uncovered floor and bentwood café chairs create an atmosphere of old-world civility rather than anything too severe, while tall windows provide the daylight.
The place opens at 9am for coffee and pastries, to encourage a little constructive dawdling on the way to work, but full services introduce a neat, seasonal menu of up-to-the-minute, Med-oriented bistro dishes with a strong backbone of pedigree regional supplies. Dishes often pack several punches in one concentrated package: brandade and puntarelle are dressed in chilli, capers and dill, while duck rillettes are sharpened to a fine point with pickled clementine.
A reporter's spring dinner that took in a rabbit sausage, as well as ox heart and chips, spoke for many in its admiration for the kitchen's respectful approach to meats, but there was praise too for pollack with clams in creamy cider sauce. Fans have also enthused about the pasta dishes. Lamb comes from Shetland, and could be served 'en crépinette' with mashed swede, while a canonical rendition of coq au vin for two (rich with ceps and bacon) is accompanied by mustard greens.
To conclude, the kitchen's bakery skills are spotlit for the likes of chocolate, almond and pear cake, and the heavenly rhubarb sorbet is also mentioned in dispatches. Free bread is the kind of touch that gets everybody onside. The enterprising cosmopolitan wine list is a closely printed miscellany of thoroughbred bottles, opening with a Soave Classico and Dão red at £27, and there is a clutch of quality fortified libations.
Although its name, and that of the village, stems from the roadside tavern that has perched on this site since the 18th century, no current visitor would mistake The Peat Inn for anything other than a carefully fettled culinary de… Read more
Although its name, and that of the village, stems from the roadside tavern that has perched on this site since the 18th century, no current visitor would mistake The Peat Inn for anything other than a carefully fettled culinary destination with rooms. Owned and operated by chef-patron Geoffrey Smeddle and his wife Katherine since 2006, the atmosphere within is warm and refined. Interiors are modern, sharp and luxurious, but pay homage to the history of the building. Exposed, whitewashed beams mirror the crisp linen and contrast with the vivid, vibrant upholstery. Come cold weather, an open fire still roars in the bar. Back in the kitchen, the cooking speaks of precision, skill, and at times, love. An inventive venison tartare impresses early on, cleverly embellishing the musky game with creamy goat’s curd and a sharp, sweet tomato jelly. A complex web of flavours, but beautifully balanced. Considering the location in Fife’s bountiful East Neuk, it's not surprising that local produce is frequently the star, although the menu draws on the strengths of the wider Scottish larder. If you time your visit well, grouse is likely to appear. In this instance, the bird is treated classically – roasted, with the tender, rosy meat of the breast and leg gorged in a dark, unctuous game sauce. Completing the picture are game chips, green beans and bread sauce, plus a frankly obscene fried croûton, slathered with a tarry, luscious liver parfait. Desserts mix outright decadence with meticulous visual finesse. A Greek yoghurt crémeux nestles beneath a delicate honeycombed crisp, bolstering the intense, condensed caramel sweetness of roast apricot, while a dark chocolate délice sings loudest alongside the marmalade and sherry-like notes of its matched vin doux naturel. There is plenty of enthusiasm from readers, although some noticeably erratic execution – particularly in terms of seasoning and the overall balance of flavours – needs addressing. Wines start just north of £30 and scamper all the way up to the high hundreds, with over a dozen offered by the glass. If in doubt, advice is affable and enthusiastic, in line with the always-attentive service.
The Samling sits in splendid, immaculate isolation above Windermere. It is a sumptuous place that nods in contemporary style to Lakeland surroundings that you can enjoy without getting wet and muddy; invigorating views of mere and… Read more
The Samling sits in splendid, immaculate isolation above Windermere. It is a sumptuous place that nods in contemporary style to Lakeland surroundings that you can enjoy without getting wet and muddy; invigorating views of mere and mountain spread beyond the glass-walled dining room, and the seriously cushioned lounge is warmed with a weather-defying real fire. Service is flawless, if at times a little whispered, and the cooking of executive chef Robby Jenks and his team is deliciously refined. The four-course lunch is good value (you pay more than double for seven courses at dinner), though the quietness one autumn Saturday lunchtime suggests that memo has not been received. Sourdough comes tucked up warm in white linen in a silver bowl; its accompanying butter sits on a stone, fashionably. A fragile tartlet is a few bites of walloping umami savouriness from mushrooms – ketchup, duxelles, hen of the woods, tiny little shimeji, a tuile – and the aniseedy nudge of tarragon emulsion brightens the ‘shroomy forest. Saffron is the dominant flavour in a dish of skate wing, spiralled round a gentle shellfish mousse in a sauce split with dill oil. Topped with a lacy saffron tuile that's dotted with Jerusalem artichoke and ditsy nasturtium leaves, it is a thing of golden beauty and earthy flavour. Middle White pork is treated with such tenderness that a piece of pancetta-wrapped loin becomes meltingly soft, so too a square of belly slow-cooked in beer vinegar; both get on well with the sweet-sharp seasonality of pear, parsnip and red cabbage. Finish with a classy apple dessert that uses fruit from the Samling’s orchard. A meringue cup contains minuscule dices of apple as well as almond biscuit, the whole surrounded by a featherlight mousse coated in white chocolate. Tonka-bean ice cream alongside is sublime in its nutty, vanilla-suggesting flavour. Wine-lovers take note: temptation ahead. The renowned list, vast in scope, is fat with bottles from the world’s great vineyards, and prices reflect this. There are slightly more ordinary sips – called ‘The Forty’ after their price tag – but it somehow comes as no surprise that three bottles have five-figure tickets, a bottle of La Romanée Grand Cru Monopole 2002 topping the lot at a mind-boggling £16,000.
Elegant Mediterranean-style cooking in an oasis of calm
Tucked into one side of the landmark brutalist building that is 180 Strand, Toklas is easy to miss. Just remember it has its own entrance on Surrey Street, opposite the old Strand tube station – if you find yourself outside … Read more
Tucked into one side of the landmark brutalist building that is 180 Strand, Toklas is easy to miss. Just remember it has its own entrance on Surrey Street, opposite the old Strand tube station – if you find yourself outside Toklas Café & Bakery, you’ve gone too far. Set one level above the street, it’s a genuine find – an oasis of calm, especially on a warm summer’s day when a table on the wide, plant-filled terrace is highly prized. The restrained modern interior goes bare on napery and big on concrete, but natural light floods in through huge windows and striking artworks add colour.
The restaurant draws inspiration – and its name – from the avant-garde American food writer Alice B Toklas, but what distinguishes it is a commitment to concise, seasonal and elegant Mediterranean-style cooking. Indeed, the kitchen is noted for its simple, calendar-tuned line-up of dishes based on the freshest of ingredients with classic accompaniments. Those pristine raw materials are handled with a delicate touch, as in a starter of wild sea bass crudo with sweet 'honeycomb' tomatoes offset by dots of salty bottarga, plus a colourfully tangled assembly of black figs, oakleaf lettuce, crunchy hazelnuts, pecorino shavings and honey. Rabbit saltimbocca with a pile of braised chard and a chunk of fresh Amalfi lemon is completely delicious in its simplicity, while homemade pasta is the business: a plate of tagliatelle with Scottish girolles, garlic and parsley showed up well during our lunchtime visit.
And there’s concord right to the final act: our dessert of gorgeous, perfectly roasted amaretto peaches needed nothing more than a dollop of mascarpone. The innovative wine list is dominated by bottles from the Mediterranean basin. Although there are comparatively few options under £40, drinkers have access to a generous clutch of recommendations by the glass and carafe. Excellent cocktails, too.
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