Native
Sheffield, South Yorkshire
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Seafood is front and centre at this small restaurant from independent Sheffield fishmonger J H Mann. An open kitchen is separated from the dozen or so tables by a display of fresh fish on a slim counter, while high-ceilings, exposed steel and bare brick walls give an industrial feel that’s offset by colourful modern art and complemented by chunky wooden furniture and velvet-covered banquettes. Chef-owner Christian Szurko is Sheffield-born and London-trained (The Ivy, J Sheekey) and his menu bursts with ambitious flavour combinations: a generous side order of grilled savoy cabbage in garlic emulsion with smoked anchovies was one of the highlights of our visit. While the regular menu tends to favour the classics – grilled tiger prawns, steamed mussels, fish pie – the kitchen also handles more ambitious ideas such as a perfectly charred piece of octopus with mash and 'nduja and anchovy dressing. However, most of the more unusual, creative dishes are reserved for the specials board: here you might find maple-cured salmon with gochujang, kimchi and brioche toast or whole sea bream stuffed with jerk butter on a bed of incredibly delicious, lightly curried creamed corn, as well as grilled scallops with braised pork cheek, white asparagus and chunks of smoked Idiazabal cheese. To finish, we shared a lavish raspberry and pistachio pavlova. The house white is an organic Grüner Veltliner, while service is delivered with classic South Yorkshire warmth.
