L'Escargot
Soho, London
CONTINUE READING
Already a member? Log in here
Subscribe to our newsletter to gain access to limited free articles, reviews, news and our weekly newsletter.
The Good Food Guide Membership: Save £100s at Britain's best restaurants - try for free for 30 days
*Following a period of refurbishment, L'Escargot re-opened on 24 May 2023. Watch for a new review coming soon.*
‘Landmark’ and ‘legendary’ are overused terms on the restaurant scene but if anywhere deserves the recognition it is art-lined L’Escargot, founded on Greek Street in Soho in 1927 and purveying an anglicised vision of Gallic culture and cuisine ever since. Onion soup, lobster bisque, foie gras terrine, entrecôte with béarnaise, they’re all here washed down with wines which, bien sûr, are as French as the waiters’ accents. What saves L’Escargot from cliché is the quality and generosity of the cooking. ‘Snacks’ such as a sourdough croque monsieur oozing gooey Gruyère or wedges of deep-fried breaded brie are portioned like starters. First courses proper might involve pâté en croûte made from excellent pastry bordering chunky pork and silky foie gras, though naturally the namesake snails are the essential thing to order here (L’Escargot claims to be the first restaurant to have served them in the UK). Six or 12 are presented either in the shell, in a Staub pan encrusted with garlic and parsley and a side of bread for soaking and dunking or, for even more richness, in a feuilleté with wild mushrooms. Main courses don’t hit quite the same heights of shameless indulgence but stick to the Franglais theme – think tournedos Rossini with foie gras and truffle or roast cod with savoy cabbage and butter. Desserts, however, are magnificent: Grand Marnier soufflé rises from its ramekin as stiffly as a chef’s toque before being punctured by a dollop of ice cream and a spoonful of Grand Marnier syrup. In thoroughly French fashion, L’Escargot is dog-friendly throughout. Although we would never encourage feeding animals at the table, the staff will happily provide a bowl of cocktail sausages if canine calming is required: it typifies the welcoming approach of a restaurant that embodies the warmth of genuine hospitality.
