Story Cellar
Covent Garden, London
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This laid-back offshoot of Restaurant Story (currently closed for a major refurbishment) delivers the kind of food we all want to eat right now. In strikingly casual surroundings – black-and-white tiled floor, stool seating at the counter and window, noisy acoustics (this is Seven Dials after all) – it is both relaxed and formal enough to make eating here a bit of an occasion. Tom Sellers and his team have set themselves a high bar for success, but happily they meet it (and then some), unwavering in their commitment to gutsy, bracing, season-led classics along the lines of whole Dover sole with brown shrimps, capers and parsley. The menu structure means you can dip in or order multiple dishes to share. We did the latter, beginning with a knockout salad involving a tangle of grilled root vegetables, smoked onion and Old Winchester cheese – a masterclass in teasing maximum flavour from humble ingredients. There is much to fall in love with here: a dry-aged pork chop (topped with pickled dates) with a deep, glossy sauce that played off against the outstanding quality of the meat; the famed rotisserie chicken with its own rich gravy, simply served with moreish chips and a beautifully dressed green salad. If you haven’t let greed get the better of you, you won’t want to miss dessert. The vintage feel extends to the ethereal sophistication of a perfectly made trifle, or a gently luxurious bread and butter pudding with a fabulous tonka and orange custard. Despite high prices, the extensive wine list is a dazzler, pulling together French classics as well as forward-thinking sips – artisan Champagnes, American aristos and central European interlopers.
