The Warren
Carmarthen, Carmarthenshire
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Set up by a young painter, a gardener and a chef from the festival scene, this is a free-spirited community hub supporting local and organic businesses – with a sider order of open-mic nights, quizzes and sundry get-togethers. As the name suggests, the restaurant occupies a labyrinth of little rooms illuminated by candles and fairy lights with exposed beams, shelves of homemade provisions and vintages trappings – and it's driven entirely by renewable energy. Menus (and a list of suppliers) are on clipboards, and the cooking has an honest, wholesome feel, with nods to street food and all things plant-based. Burgers with organic chips are the centrepiece – choose the ‘low-carbon’ beef version or the vegan riff packed with roasted vegetables, beetroot houmus, smoked vegan cheese and chilli jam. Otherwise, the repertoire trips its way from organic asparagus with pickled wild garlic buds to a heritage pork tomahawk steak with mash, balsamic-roasted onions, greens and honey mustard sauce. There’s generally a ‘fish of the day’ too. Grazing boards and seasonal sourdough sandwiches flesh out the lunch menu, while dessert could be chocolate mousse with coconut yoghurt or vegan cashew and kiwi cheesecake. A brief, fairly priced artisan wine list kicks off with bottles from £22.
