The Dining Room
Gwynedd, Abersoch - Modern Welsh - Restaurant - ££
Fun-loving bistro with a huge local following
Tucked discreetly in between a butcher's and a bakery in a seaside village on the Llyn Peninsula, the Dining Room might almost be missed, except that a cascade of local recommendations suggests that it is very much on everybody's radar. It's a front-room bistro operation done in soothing neutral colours, with calming lake views on the walls to counterpoint the happy buzz of custom. Chef-owner Si Toft's career began in northwest England before he crossed the border, embarking on a mission to showcase the best Welsh produce on a tight ship three evenings a week. Expect Anglesey black beef, Cardigan Bay fish and Penderyn whisky to crop up regularly on the frequently changing menus. Lightness and freshness are the hallmarks of an opener that sees a prawn mousse dressed in kefir with cucumber and dill, or there might be asparagus pakora with sweetcorn dhal and 'Maccies curry sauce' (we couldn't possibly comment). Prime Welsh lamb rump makes a suitably majestic main dish, rendered...
Tucked discreetly in between a butcher's and a bakery in a seaside village on the Llyn Peninsula, the Dining Room might almost be missed, except that a cascade of local recommendations suggests that it is very much on everybody's radar. It's a front-room bistro operation done in soothing neutral colours, with calming lake views on the walls to counterpoint the happy buzz of custom.
Chef-owner Si Toft's career began in northwest England before he crossed the border, embarking on a mission to showcase the best Welsh produce on a tight ship three evenings a week. Expect Anglesey black beef, Cardigan Bay fish and Penderyn whisky to crop up regularly on the frequently changing menus. Lightness and freshness are the hallmarks of an opener that sees a prawn mousse dressed in kefir with cucumber and dill, or there might be asparagus pakora with sweetcorn dhal and 'Maccies curry sauce' (we couldn't possibly comment). Prime Welsh lamb rump makes a suitably majestic main dish, rendered pink and served with pickled anchovies, ratatouille veg and punchy salsa verde. The fish option could be megrim sole in bouillabaisse with fennel, tomato and leek.
A canny understanding of sweet treats results in a gooseberried-up Basque cheesecake or an ice-lolly of blackberry and limoncello with chia pudding – as well as a cocktail offering that runs from a Turkish Delight Martini to a Midget Gem Negroni, which may explain why everybody seems to be having such fun. A broadly based wine selection includes some of the new generation of Welsh wines, but is a little thin on by-the-glass options.