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The Small Canteen

Tyne & Wear, Newcastle upon Tyne - Modern British - Restaurant - ££

Delightfully homely, generous bistro in the Newcastle suburbs

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Very Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Very Good

It may be small, with just four tables and a counter across the window of an unprepossessing building, but the Small Canteen has a big heart. The concise menu is squashed and smudged onto a blackboard in Sam Betts’ ever-so-slightly chaotic ship, which is run with immense verve and generosity. Start with good chewy bread plus dips of mayo, salsa verde and romesco. A glistening slab of pork terrine comes with a delightfully fruity chutney, twice-baked asparagus soufflé swims in a rich cheese and chive sauce, and breadcrumbed soft-shell crab has a luscious brown butter and mustard hollandaise. Everything here is rich, abundant and delicious. It seems that the chef is unfamiliar with the concept of portion control: starters are the size of a main course and mains are too good to refuse. You might try stuffed monkfish with cannellini beans or gnocchi with butternut squash and Taleggio, although the star of the show is fall-apart shin of beef (cooked low and slow) acc...

It may be small, with just four tables and a counter across the window of an unprepossessing building, but the Small Canteen has a big heart. The concise menu is squashed and smudged onto a blackboard in Sam Betts’ ever-so-slightly chaotic ship, which is run with immense verve and generosity. Start with good chewy bread plus dips of mayo, salsa verde and romesco. A glistening slab of pork terrine comes with a delightfully fruity chutney, twice-baked asparagus soufflé swims in a rich cheese and chive sauce, and breadcrumbed soft-shell crab has a luscious brown butter and mustard hollandaise. Everything here is rich, abundant and delicious.

It seems that the chef is unfamiliar with the concept of portion control: starters are the size of a main course and mains are too good to refuse. You might try stuffed monkfish with cannellini beans or gnocchi with butternut squash and Taleggio, although the star of the show is fall-apart shin of beef (cooked low and slow) accompanied by polenta and glistening leaves of cavolo nero. Tables are so closely packed you get to know your neighbours, who provide good reports of the steamed blood-orange sponge and custard, although the chocolate mousse, blackberry sorbet and honeycomb combo (three desserts in one) is fabulous too.

We don’t know how Betts does it for the price, but we are very glad he does – especially when the blackboard also lists cocktails, including a gorgeous blood-orange Negroni. Wines are a fiver a glass, while £30 will pay for a bottle of Gavi or a Primitivo.

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VENUE DETAILS

17 Starbeck Avenue
Newcastle upon Tyne
Tyne & Wear
NE2 1RHGB

07816 524826

OTHER INFORMATION

Counter seating, Family friendly

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