La Merenda, Nice
A pocket size Nice institution run by chef Dominique Le Stanc since 1996. He cooks traditional home-style Niçoise dishes such as stockfish, pissaladiere, pâtes au pistou. It's nigh-on impossible to book a table – those in the know suggest popping by in person on the day to check availability.
WHERE 4 Rue Raoul Bosio, 06300 Nice, France
Il Consorzio, Turin
A cool and casual cobblestoned trattoria in a narrow back street in the centre of the city. The kitchen has a thing about offal – think lamp tripe ‘tajarin’ or wholemeal tagliatelle with beef heart ragù – paired with Piemontese wines by the glass such as Barolo and Timorasso.
WHERE Via Monte di Pietà, 23, 10122 Torino, Italy
Kaia Kaipe, Getaria
Apparently, the world's best turbot is found at Elkano at the edge of Getaria’s old town but Kaia Kaipe, in the port itself, is by far the better choice. One of the world’s greatest wine lists is found here along with better views and a cracking selection of pristine fish and shellfish mostly kept live in saltwater tanks until point of order.
WHERE General Arnao Kalea, 4, 20808 Getaria, Gipuzkoa, Spain
Sa’ Pesta, Genoa
An old-school canteen dating back to 1889, hidden away in the old town. You can’t go wrong with farinata from the wood-fired oven, trofiette with pesto, and frittelle di baccalà. Walk-in-only at lunch (go early); reservation-only at dinner.
WHERE Via dei Giustiniani, 16r, 16123 Genova, Italy
Cervejaria Ramiro, Lisbon
Whenever we're in Lisbon we never miss out on eating at Cervejaria Ramiro, a favourite of the much-missed Anthony Bourdain. You can watch the freshest seafood being delivered to their door whilst waiting in the queue (due to its no-bookings policy). This is the place to eat the highly prized percebes (gooseneck barnacles). Harvesting these crustaceans that cling to rock is time-consuming and dangerous. It’s customary to end a meal at Cervejaria Ramiro with one of the best prego in the city.
WHERE Avenida Almirante Reis 1 H, 1150-007 Lisboa, Portugal
Trattoria da Pino, Palermo
With a mirrored front door you feel you’re stepping into the unknown, but this is a brilliant local spot for home-style Sicilian cooking with dim lighting, plastic tablecloths and life-changingly good cassata al forno.
WHERE Via dello Spezio, 6, 90139 Palermo, Italy
Limmat, Marseille
On the steps running from Cours Julien towards Noailles, Limmat sits proudly among graffitied walls, sandwiched between two of Marseille’s busiest streets. Its vibrant surroundings provide the perfect contrast to the pared back, thoughtful cooking that highlights fresh seafood with a small a la carte menu brought to life in a tiny kitchen.
WHERE 41 Rue Jean-Baptiste-Estelle, 13006 Marseille, France
Arrea, Montaña Alavesa
Arrea appears as a local Basque farmhouse kitchen in the tiny mountain village of Santa Cruz de Campezo. In fact, it’s the new home of Edorta Lamo the chef behind famously avante garde San Sesbastian pintxo bar A Fuego Negro. Every product is sourced from within 25 miles – even the wine. The tasting menu (which comes with about six choices – a relief to a GFG inspector!) is a tour de force of restrained creativity around unique local produce and sets a bar for modern mountain cuisine in the Basque Country. There are few hidden gems left in this part of Spain; this is one of them.
WHERE Subida al Frontón, 46, 01110 Santikurutze Kanpezu, Álava, Spain
Trattoria Da Me, Bologna
You cannot be in Bologna and not eat tagliatelle ragu (‘spag-bol') and we recommend Trattoria Da Me, a family restaurant dating back to 1937 and now with the charming Elisa Rusconi firmly in charge.
WHERE Via San Felice, 50a, 40122 Bologna, Italy
Restaurante Casa Fernando, Mallorca
A perfect first or last lunch on a trip to Mallorca, this old-school fish restaurant is less than 10 minutes from the airport and a block from the beach. Pick out what you fancy at the counter before it hits the plancha and arrives on a platter, simply dressed to best flaunt its freshness.
WHERE Carrer de Trafalgar, 27, Platja de Palma, 07007 Palma, Illes Balears, Spain
Chez Paul, Lyon
At the top end, La Mère Brazier does what it does very well, but a standout in Lyon is Chez Paul where is where you get the full-on bouchon vibe, communal dining, mad idiosyncrasies and good honest eating.
WHERE 11 Rue Major Martin, 69001 Lyon, France
Enoteca Fontana, Parma
This place takes some beating! Try the ricotta and spinach ravioli sprinkled liberally with Parmesan.
WHERE Strada Luigi Carlo Farini, 24, 43121 Parma, Italy
De Kas, Amsterdam
Worth the fare to Amsterdam alone. This is the real deal when it comes to farm-to-table flavour, and while it boldly renounces any fine dining flounce, it feels like a special place to be. The staff are cool and friendly, and the set lunch is superb value for money.
WHERE Kamerlingh Onneslaan 3, 1097 DE Amsterdam, Netherlands
1477 Reichhalter, Lana, South Tyrol
Lana in the Dolomites is a place to go specifically for the food (and hiking). We stayed at Villa Arnica and ate at their sister restaurant 1477 Reichhalter twice on the trip. I still dream about it!
WHERE Via Macello, 2, 39011 Lana BZ, Italy
Diporto, Athens
Tucked underground in an unmarked basement with no signage and no menu, this Taverna has been serving authentic Athenian fare for over 130 years. You get what you're given here depending on what they are serving that day, but you can reasonably expect bread, a bean or chickpea stew, fresh fish and seafood, and Greek salad. Cash only, of course.
WHERE Sokratous 9 &, Theatrou 2, Athina 105 52, Greece
