The Northall
Westminster, London
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Perfectly located for the galleries, theatres and government offices around Charing Cross, the deeply luxurious Corinthia hotel is a good place to get anything from a light lunch to a blowout. The Northall is one of several restaurants of significance, a soaring street-level dining room with enormous windows and a ceiling high enough to accommodate a smaller mezzanine level in one corner. It’s light (all cream, buttery gold and white), with well-spaced white-clothed tables, comfortably padded chairs and a carpeted floor – noise rarely builds. It’s the sort of place that delights many of our older readers. André Garrett’s food may be firmly rooted in classical principles but it also keeps pace: the wide-ranging carte encompasses kombu-cured brill with Italian cucumber, nori and cultured cream, as well as pressed rabbit terrine served with pickled radish, red pepper ketchup and pistachio brioche – or even Dover sole meunière. Everything is produced with great assurance, as can be appreciated from a good-value set menu that takes you from Lake District beef tartare with smoked onion cream and pickled pearl onion, via poached trout with crushed courgette, brown shrimp, Champagne velouté and trout roe, to a classic gâteau opera. Sunday lunch is popular. Quality is high across the board on the imposing wine list but then so are prices: by-the-glass selections start at £12.
