The Greenhouse
St Keverne, Cornwall
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Tucked away in tranquil St Keverne, not far from Helston, the Greenhouse fits neatly in among its neighbouring cottages. It's the kind of place that readers characterise as a 'gem', appreciating the intimate feel of the dining room and a host, Neil Woodward, who enjoys talking about food. Out back, Leonie Woodward conjures a larder of seasonal organic ingredients into dishes that draw inspiration from various global cuisines, with stunning results. Seafood is an obvious strong point: there may be Japanese-influenced treacle-cured trout with nori and tomato ponzu to start, but regional traditionalists will covet Falmouth Bay scallops roasted on the half-shell with lemon, garlic and seaweed butter. For main course, it might be butter-roasted monkfish in crab velouté with cockles and leeks, while the Asian theme resounds again for miso-roasted pork belly and anise-scented tenderloin with roasted beetroot and raisins. Finish with a baba, doused not in rum but carob liqueur, paired with a poached pear, and given the regional imprimatur of a clod of clotted cream. Organic and biodynamic wines, as well as local Cornish ales, are the stock-in-trade of the brief drinks list.
