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Talbooth

Essex, Dedham - French - Restaurant - £££

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Very Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

Now into its eighth decade, this family-run riverside restaurant is still a much-loved local asset. Well-heeled guests come for a picture-perfect setting by the Stour, and to mark all manner of occasions in a centuries-old building of beams, mullioned windows and white-clothed tables. The menu bows to classical French style. A summer meal might start with chilled lobster consommé, or ham hock and duck liver terrine, or slices of delicate tuna doused tableside in a light dashi broth and served with snappy sesame crisps. Vegetarian diners (there’s a separate menu for vegan guests too) might begin with truffle and Manchego cheese ravioli, but with takes on pasta and suchlike dominating the main-course options, cauliflower velouté might be preferable. Meat is expertly cooked. A Suffolk pork chop, laced with paprika, is beautifully juicy under its blanket of mustard cream sauce, the acidic counterpart delivered by a sharp cider vinegar gel and punchy bacon jam. Saddle of...

Now into its eighth decade, this family-run riverside restaurant is still a much-loved local asset. Well-heeled guests come for a picture-perfect setting by the Stour, and to mark all manner of occasions in a centuries-old building of beams, mullioned windows and white-clothed tables. The menu bows to classical French style. A summer meal might start with chilled lobster consommé, or ham hock and duck liver terrine, or slices of delicate tuna doused tableside in a light dashi broth and served with snappy sesame crisps. Vegetarian diners (there’s a separate menu for vegan guests too) might begin with truffle and Manchego cheese ravioli, but with takes on pasta and suchlike dominating the main-course options, cauliflower velouté might be preferable. Meat is expertly cooked. A Suffolk pork chop, laced with paprika, is beautifully juicy under its blanket of mustard cream sauce, the acidic counterpart delivered by a sharp cider vinegar gel and punchy bacon jam. Saddle of lamb is blush pink and tucked up tenderly next to the smoothest pomme purée and shiniest Madeira jus. Desserts are a triumph. A lemon soufflé towers fluffily above sweet-sharp blueberry ice cream and hint-of-lavender Chantilly, while a frangipane tartlet comes with a pretty tumble of strawberries; true tradition-seekers will also applaud the inclusion of peach Melba and a Welsh rarebit savoury. The wine list rewards the deep of pocket, although a Coravin system means that gems such as a 2012 Les Forts de Latour, Pauillac, can be poured by the glass.

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VENUE DETAILS

Gun Hill
Dedham
Essex
CO7 6HPGB

01206 323150

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OTHER INFORMATION

Accommodation, Separate bar, Wheelchair access, Parking, Dog friendly, Deposit required

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