Som Saa
Spitalfields, London
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In a former fabric warehouse near Spitalfields Market, Mark Dobbie and Andy Oliver are drawing the crowds for regionally oriented Thai food of electrifying energy. Occupying a room given hard-edged chic with metal girders and roughed-up brickwork, running to a system that mixes bookings and last-minute walk-ins, it's clearly a winning formula. Seasonings and spices are all correct and very much present in dishes such as gaeng daeng gung si king, a red curry of prawns in a thick liquor alight with Thai basil, ginger and chilli, or massaman curry of braised beef shin with peanuts and roasted shallots. A enterprising tableful might like to go at a whole deep-fried sea bass with a traditional herb mix from the Isaan region and roasted rice powder. Vegetarian offerings include fiery kabocha squash massaman with braised onions and cashews. Jasmine and sticky rices are topped up ad lib, and the classic ways to finish are with salted palm-sugar ice cream with turmeric-grilled banana, or sticky rice doughnuts with jackfruit in coconut cream. Wines have been conscientiously chosen to cope with the vibrancy of the cooking. A very smart page of German, Alsace and Australasian Rieslings will fit the bill best.
