Master Wei Xi'an Bloomsbury

Bloomsbury, London

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It’s noisy and tightly packed but what really stands out is the service: here is a Chinese eatery where the staff are genuinely friendly and cheerful, tending to everyone’s needs with ‘unobtrusive efficiency’. Like the Xi’an Impressions original in north London, the food is an ‘outright bargain’ and truly authentic, with top honours going to the long, flat, hand-pulled noodles from Shaanxi province: the minced beef and vegetable version comes highly recommended. Other ‘deeply satisfying’ platefuls show off the kitchen’s street-food repertoire, from spicy smacked cucumber to the now-famous stewed pork burger. Portions are exceedingly generous.