Knockinaam Lodge
Portpatrick, Dumfries & Galloway
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There's something deeply reassuring about this grand lodge in a remote but spectacular spot overlooking the Irish Sea. It’s probably all down to the traditional decor – the tartan armchairs, the floral swagged windows, the open fireplaces, panelled walls and slightly faded paintwork – yet in the elegant dining room (all linen napery and china display cabinets) any stuffiness is offset by cool background tunes and informal, young staff. And if you're lucky enough to get the window table, your view across the gently sloping lawn to the sea and (on a good day) Ireland, is well worth the price of admission. At a test meal, veteran chef Tony Pierce’s set five-course dinner menu began with a teacup of chilled vichyssoise (‘perfect in blistering summer temperatures’) followed by a 'delicate chicken and egg sausage' – actually a tiny feather-light omelette with a wafer-thin slice of mushroom and a subtle Madeira and truffle broth. Next up, a simple but delicious Galloway beef consommé with a touch of sherry, the perfect precursor to a beautifully judged serving of Isle of Gigha halibut with chard, garden beans, peas and an exquisite saffron and Champagne emulsion – ‘a riot of high-summer colour and flavours'. A textbook strawberry soufflé served with passion fruit sorbet was a fitting finale. The ‘brilliantly put together’ wine list roams the globe, and the Coravin system allows you to sample widely (and well) by the glass.
