Garden Café
Lambeth, London
CONTINUE READING
Already a member? Log in here
Subscribe to our newsletter to gain access to limited free articles, reviews, news and our weekly newsletter.
The Good Food Guide Membership: Save £100s at Britain's best restaurants - try for free for 30 days
An adjunct to the horticulturally enticing Garden Museum in the deconsecrated church of St Mary-at-Lambeth, this appealing, Scandi-style eatery has become something of a destination hereabouts. Part of the attraction is its shaded courtyard garden – a verdant oasis of calm and civility, even when it's jam-packed. Staff are sweet, helpful and as friendly as can be, although we noticed quite a few missteps when we visited (admittedly on one of the hottest, busiest days of the year). Lunch is the main event and the short menu is ‘bang on season’, promising dishes that are straightforward and big on flavour – as in a delightfully fresh plate of marinated chard with stracciatella and pangrattato. European ideas dominate, although the chef drops in a few doughty British classics too (venison mince with swede and horseradish, say). A bowl of ajo blanco was spot-on for the weather, while a piece of perfectly timed brill on the bone needed only some crispy potatoes and a spoonful of herb butter. Top pick? A deliciously comforting but oh-so-simple dish of ricotta gnocchi and datterini tomatoes drizzled with olive oil. To finish, expect anything from chocolate semifreddo to baked custard with plums, depending on the season. The drinks list is equally short and sweet with juices, cordials and beers alongside some low-intervention wines. While the Garden Café is primarily a daytime spot (coffee and cake are available either side of lunch), they also serve evening meals on Tuesdays and Fridays.
