Walking down Hanover Street, the large windows of a former drapery warehouse in Manchester's NOMA district allow a glimpse of a team of chefs, smartly kitted in whites, moving seriously around an open kitchen. Next to them, Tom Barnes stands sentry, waiting to welcome his first run of guests to what is undoubtedly Manchester’s opening of the year.
After moving on from his role as Simon Rogan’s executive chef, overseeing World Class-rated L’Enclume, Lakeland-born Barnes — a Great British Menu winner in 2020, a Roux Scholarship winner in 2014 — has struck out on his own to deliver industry-leading DNA to Manchester. With relatively little at the top end in the city (save for the Exceptional-rated Adam Reid at The French, another Simon Rogan alumnus) expectations are grand. But step into the restaurant and it feels very far from daunting.
The industrial site was originally due to be taken by Higher Ground before redevelopment timelines forced a change in plan. Now dressed up by London design studio Black Sheep, it’s easy to see how it would suit both operators. The space is warm and smart but deliberately modest, with bare brick walls, banquettes and exposed steel beams. Though the finer details are there too: perfect lighting, drinks lists bound in thick supple leather, and handsome dark wood chairs cushioned in just the right places.
Service is of the first order too. Except for two in the kitchen and two front of house, the whole team have come from Simon Rogan’s stable where standards of hospitality rank as the very best in the country. The style is toned down to a more relaxed pitch but it doesn’t miss a beat.
So what about the cooking? Even at the early preview stage, it’s a near-flawless showcase of technical prowess ploughed into dishes you really want to eat. The longer 15-course menu fires off with a series of statement snacks: A tartlet of Dexter beef tartare with dainty slices of grilled sprouting broccoli, decorated in yellow brassica flowers, then a fresh-as-a-daisy bite of Spenwood cheese biscuit with crushed broad beans and pea shoots. The final bite is BBQ lobster on sourdough toast soaked in the crustacean’s juices, finished with a drape of glistening, aged port fat. It’s perfect.
The menu proceeds onto a roll call of Orkney scallops, umami-intense chawanmushi, a bright white delight of steamed cod, and roast duck for the savoury finale. A Cashel Blue cheese course prepares the palate for four stages of dessert, culminating in a very personal closing dish of tiramisu, served by Tom at the table in memory of his father, for whom he made the dish frequently towards the end of his life.
WHEN 29th May
WHERE 3 Hanover St, Federation Street, Manchester M4 4BF
FOLLOW @skof_manchester
BOOK skofmanchester.co.uk
The Good Food Guide allows three to six months before anonymously inspecting a new restaurant. Look out for a full review coming soon.
