The Pollen Street site remains part of Atherton’s Social Company, but in an affordable, everyone-welcome pivot it’s been reincarnated as Mary’s, a casual New York-inspired grill, with paper tablecloth covers and front-of-house staff in jeans and white t-shirts emphasising the more relaxed pitch. However, the ghost of Pollen Street Social lingers, a slight aesthetic re-jigging rather than a full facelift means that the comfortable seating and well-spaced tables remain in situ, new art work has joined the old on the walls, and staff still bring out the handbag stools.
Truly, the big transformation is in the kitchen. Alex Parker is the game changer chef here, moving from the now closed Social Eating House. He brings a flurry of energy, confidence and good vibrations to a menu where small plates form the bulk of the menu, with around a dozen or so options in play alongside heftier plates of freshly landed fish, prime cuts of beef, lamb, pork, and chicken, all cooked on the wood-fired grill. It’s a structure that allows for the sampling of a few dishes with a glass of wine as well as a blow-the-budget feast.
We visited for lunch, a week after a soft opening. Even at this early stage the combination of British produce, global experiences and modern interpretation of classic cooking produced some near flawless dishes. The style may be toned down but it didn’t miss a beat, with our small plate highlights including Lyonnaise onion agnolotti layered with cheese custard and leeks, topped with a chive beurre blanc, and monkfish tempura in a warm tartare sauce. From the grill, a Hereford dry-aged fillet on the bone was the undoubted star – very nearly upstaged by an accompanying heritage tomato carpaccio salad. And there’s no stinting when it comes to dessert. Our cherry doughnut (wonderfully light) was made exceptional by a classic crème anglaise.
Mary’s may be a work in progress, but we loved its potential. Regulars will remember the dessert bar in the dining room. Now reserved for walk-ins who fancy a smashed burger (at £16.50) it could be just the spot for a quick lunch or pre-theatre bite as turnaround is promised to be fast. The short choice set lunch also looks a bargain at £35 for three courses. And as with all Atherton restaurants the wine list is taken seriously. Female producers feature prominently and there’s excellent choice by the glass, with prices from £6.50 for a 125ml pour.
But for us, the big plus is the repurposing of the former restaurant bar as the new home of the Social Company’s The Blind Pig. The counter seating has been put back and the lengthy list of cocktails is on point, starting at an (astonishing for Mayfair) £12 – and not going that much higher.
WHEN 15th August
WHERE 8-10 Pollen Street, London, W1S 1NQ
FOLLOW @marysest2024
BOOK maryslondon.co.uk
The Good Food Guide allows three to six months before anonymously inspecting a new restaurant. Look out for a full review coming soon.
