Social Eating House
Soho, London
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It's easy to walk past the discreetly signed entrance of this most casual of Jason Atherton’s ‘Social’ restaurants. The restrained interior has changed little over the last decade, bare on napery and big on artfully distressed walls offset by a low mirrored ceiling, wood and coppery tones. But Paul Hood's departure and changes in the kitchen have brought a new-found energy and drive to the place. Executive chef Alex Parker’s cooking reflects experience at Claude Bosi at Bibendum as well as time spent at City Social, and there's no doubt he is aiming high. The kitchen’s something-for-everyone approach has been retained, with the set lunch and early-dinner menu remaining a bargain – you can hardly jibe at the prices when you can have three courses (with a glass of wine and service) for under £50. The carte is a work in progress, with high points ranging from well-sourced Josper-grilled meats (perhaps dry-aged Scottish Black Angus sirloin) or a dazzlingly delicious mushroom and chicken raviolo with seaweed jam and Parmesan velouté to roast guinea fowl breast with prawn-stuffed wings, baby artichoke and a deeply flavoursome barigoule sauce – a standout dish that gives a taste of the new regime’s flair. Or consider the theatre of a ‘chef’s experience menu’ offered at the eight-seat kitchen pass, where Parker has already stamped his personality, imagination and technical innovation on the multi-course taster. There are hits aplenty here: a foie gras and pistachio sandwich; a beef tartare waffle topped with caviar; Cornish red mullet with anchovy tapenade and bouillabaisse; lamb saddle with baba ganoush, black garlic and gremolata. And who can resist a mini Eccles cake with Stilton? Clever stuff. There’s serious dedication on the drinks front, too, with well-tailored cocktails and a list of confidently chosen wines including plenty by the glass.
