While we haven't quite returned to Cool Britannia levels again, walking into Café François on a Thursday evening for dinner was reminiscent of the 90s in a different way.
The second restaurant from the talented team at Maison François was bustling on a rainy September night. With a deli that turns in to a bar at the front of the Borough Yards site, to get to the main restaurant you’re led past the kitchen pass where a flurry of activity was overseen by executive chef Matthew Ryle.
Being tucked into a corner table was like being transported back to a Chez Gerard (GFG readers might remember this mini-chain of French restaurants across London, founded by the late Laurence Isaacson and Neville Abraham). The two storey space at Café François has plenty of brushed stainless steel and light wood. And the train carriage theme actually comes into use with the seats having clever shelves behind them for bags and coats — a relief for the front desk.
We’ve seen the rise in popularity of French bistros this year across Britain, and Café François is no exception. It has a distinct bouillon feel to it with a menu so classic you could be in Paris. The hors d’eouvres counts celeriac remoulade, onion soup, escargots (available as six or 12), steak tartare and pâté-en-croûte. The crispy frog’s legs are a fun take on this French classic, although the little bones make it tricky to enjoy.
The sandwich section brings a pop of Americana to Café François and the foie gras, bacon and egg muffin ‘a la Joe Beef’ is worth the visit to Borough Yards alone. Moules mariniére and steak frites are both available for under £20 and proper rotisserie chicken is on the menu by the quarter, half and whole. The prime rib for two with bone marrow, escargots and frites is already doing the rounds on Instagram and, happily, tastes as good as it looks. At £55 for two it’s a great value main course with a platter of fries big enough for the neighbouring table to share too.
While we’ve found the wine list at Maison François strangely laid out, here the menu is far more straightforward to order from with bottles starting at an affordable £29. We’ve all noticed the cost of dining out recently — it’s not uncommon to be sitting in a London restaurant and see £40-£50 main courses — but Café François has correctly followed that bouillon style menu in terms of dishes and pricing, allowing you to pop in and leave for under £30 a head or happily spend a lot more, if you so wish. On our visit service was friendly and efficient.
WHEN 18th September 2024
WHERE 14-16 Stoney Street, London SE1 9AD
FOLLOW @cafefrancoislondon
BOOK cafefrancois.london
The Good Food Guide allows three to six months before anonymously inspecting a new restaurant. Look out for a full review coming soon.
